General Articles on Fishkeeping, with an Emphasis on Killifish (2001-2005)
An archived collection of articles, tips, and information about tropical fishkeeping in general, and killi-keeping in particular, from past issues of the G.C.K.A. Newsletter. To read an article, please click on the title (in blue).
All material is copyright © G.C.K.A. or the authors, unless otherwise noted. Reproduction is permitted for non-commercial purposes only (i.e., club bulletins). We do request that you provide source credit, and send us a copy of the publication in which the article appears. Please forward to G.C.K.A., c/o Recktenwalt, 4337 Ridgepath Drive, Dayton, OH 45424.
Acclimate Your Fish
- the Drip Method.
A
Few of the Basics - on Collecting.
Ageing Water
Airpump
vs. Blower?
Alternatives for Tank Covers
Ammonia - it's an invisible killer.
Aquarium
Rashes - got a rash? It might be from your fish tanks.
Breathing
Air - A Lifegiving Adaptation
Beware
the Camallanus Worm! - a serious parasite
Breed
Those Fish ... Nature's in Ever Shorter Supply
Buying
fish - Wild caught, or domestically bred? Which is better ...
Camallanus Alert!
The Case for
Dirty Water - some additional observations.
Cheap
Filters - In the produce section? Build your own filters.
Chloramine
Cleaning
the Freshwater Aquarium - (almost) seven steps to success.
Cleaning Planted Tanks
Color
Variation in Killifish - It's Nothing New. Some of the "sports."
Designer Killies
Filter Floss ... a good
addition to your fishroom.
The "Filth
Factor" in Killifish Tanks - your tanks need not always be pristine.
Fish
Have Personality? Yep ...
Freshwater
Shrimps - other "critters" for our tanks.
Garlic for fish
How to Stop Fry Predation
Hunting
Strategy - who says fish aren't smart?
Hydra
Revisited - what to do about a problem we've probably all had.
A Quick Course in Inheritance - it's in the genes.
Judging
Killifish (1).
Judging
Killifish (2)
Just How Big is that Aquarium?
Keeping
Records - some of the basic information, by Donna M. Recktenwalt.
Killifish in Mosquito Control - various efforts.
Killie Ponds -
Summer Vacation for you and your fish!
Killifish
- You can do it!
Lighting for Killifish
Livebearer Killies?
Low
Cost Filter Floss
Malay Snails
- love 'em or hate 'em. Another method for getting rid of 'em.
A
Few Myths ... About Killifish
Odors in
Your Fishroom? - some possible sources.
Overrun by Snails? Try This ... -
some additional techniques.
Peat and
Carbon as Water Treatments
How One Aquarist Uses Rainwater
in tanks.
Pro-nun-see-a-shun
- a general guide to those hard-to-pronounce names.
Really
Cleaning Gravel - when you want to kill everything!
Rotating
Fish Out of Tanks - tips from a fellow killikeeper.
Shipping Killifish
Eggs - a few observations
Should You Use Plastic Plants? -
the pros and cons.
Some
Influences on Fish Color
Strange Bedfellows - BIV and FAL
A
Summer Vacation - for your fish?
Survivor: Killifish Edition
The
Swim Bladder - more than you probably wanted to know.
Things
We Forgot to Tell You - a collection of things you might need to know.
A
Tip Regarding Filters - plagued by "squashed" fish? One
solution.
Too
Many Fish? - the necessity of culling.
A
Treatment for Leeches
Traveling
Killies ... - they do get around from tank to tank.
Traveling
Fish? --Hitchhikers, Visitors, or Water Changes?
I
Like Undergravel Filters - one aquarist's methods.
Weighing
the Impact of Genetically manipulated fish - the Glofish (R)
What to Expect at a Fish
Show - a primer for those who've never attended.
Where
to Begin - Your First Tank
You
Know You're Married to a Fishkeeper When ... (humor)
Acclimate your new fish …
The Drip Method
Most killikeepers agree that the least stressful way to
acclimate new fish to your water conditions is through the drip method, where
new water is added very slowly to a container over a long period.
The incoming fish, in their shipping water, are placed in a
container sufficient to hold the volume of additional water desired. The
container is then covered to prevent fish from jumping and a slow drip into the
container is begun. Local conditioned water, or water from the tank the fish
will occupy, is added until 3-4 times the volume of water in the shipping bag
has been reached.
Some aquarists set up their drip using a plastic cup with a
hole punched in the bottom, set directly over a hole in the corner of the
receiving container.
Others prefer to siphon water from one container to another,
using a piece of airline tubing with a knot tied in it to control water flow
(tighten the knot to slow the drip).
"I run a strand of yarn through airline tubing,"
says Jay-Scott Moylan. "Then I wet it by sucking some water through. This
will work as a very low speed siphon by wicking water." This technique is
useful for adapting new fish to equalize tds., etc. "I also use this
sometimes for water changes if I have really small fry … and don’t want to
disturb them too much."
Because this technique works by capillary action, there is no
suction at all in the tube.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 2001
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So
You’re Going Collecting …
A Few of the Basics
You, too, can
collect your own fish.
In the continental U.S., all that
collecting usually requires is a willingness to wade out there and get wet, some
old clothes and a pair of old sneakers, a state fishing license, and a few basic
pieces of equipment.
Legalities
In many states, you will need only a
current fishing license to collect fish. For the most part you will be taking
"bait fish," but check the local Fish and Game laws and prepare
accordingly. If you’re collecting in another state, plan to get a short-term
non-resident fishing license. It is possible to get a scientific collecting
permit, but that is usually difficult, requiring official affiliation with an
educational or governmental organization.
If you’re collecting in tidal/marine waters, often the only
limitation is net size. You’re probably safe with nets less than 4x40 ft., if
you’re not selling your catch. In many states there are protected/endangered
species that you can only collect with federal permits, and the penalties for
possession are severe.
What do you Need?
Nets, usually a seine net and a dip net;
Your equipment will vary, depending on whether you are collecting and transporting locally, by car, or whether part of your trip will be by plane.
Nets
"Take
along a one-handed seine, or a bigger one if you’ll have someone to
help," recommends Bob Goldstein. "Get the longest handled dip net you
can find." Alternatively, rig an extension handle to the net you have, with
the screw-together segments used for painting poles. These can be taken apart
and stowed in a suitcase. Mesh size is usually 1/4 inch, but 1/8 inch is even
better.
Seine nets are usually
rectangular, 4 feet high, and vary in length. With poles added at the ends,
smaller seine nets can often be operated by one person; larger ones usually
require two people. "Seine nets are surprisingly cheap, around $20.00 for a
4 ft x 20 ft. net with lead weight along one edge and Styrofoam floats along the
other," says Bruce Stallsmith. This type of net gives you a "top and
bottom" effect.
Dip nets are long
handled nets similar to those for home aquaria. They’re especially useful in
plant-filled waters, or for getting in under plant growth on the banks.
Once you’ve caught your fish,
you’ll need to sort, store, and transport them. A bucket or large transparent
jar can be
used for temporary storage. Sort your catch directly from the
net, placing potential keepers in the bucket.
Later, sort, bag, and mark for transport. You can
take them home in whatever is convenient: plastic or glass jars, empty milk
jugs, or plastic bags, all stored inside a Styrofoam
cooler for thermal protection.
Record Keeping
In
the enthusiasm of collecting, essential details can easily be lost. Take time to
record data about each location and the type of habitat involved. Be sure to
properly mark all containers so you can correctly identify and document your
specimens once you’re home.
A small notebook works well, with a
number assigned for each site, and each specimen container marked with the same
number. Site information should include a brief description of the location, the
habitat (pond meadow, open spring, shaded forest stream, etc.), plus the habitat
type where you collected (open spring, shallow running creek, weed filled
shallows, etc.) Additional useful information includes water temperature, water
parameters, and notations about the type of plants and other animals found, etc.
Once you’re home you can finish up
the positive identification and documentation of your catch.
So go to it – get wet, and have
fun!
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September/October,
2002
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Aged water is water in which fish have been living, or water
in which fish may live. Aged water is water which has been adjusted for
temperature, pH, chlorine, hardness, tonic strength, and other physical and
chemical conditions to make it liveable," says Charles Harrison.
Many aquarists think that ageing water for our fish is a thing
of the past, or simply a matter of bubbling air through a bucket overnight. With
the addition of chlorine and chloramine to many water supplies, we now need to
add a chemical chlorine/chloramine neutralizer, and often must run the water
thorugh a carbon filter as well, to make tap water suitable for changing
aquarium water. When discussing ageing water, "many of us assume that
authors … are just talking about removing chlorine," David Sanchez says.
"They are not!"
Older literature talks about ageing water for breeding by
allowing it to sit in peat or allowing rainwater to age. Older aquarists,
especially the Germans, allowed rainwater to filter over carbon, then to sit for
as much as months in peat. The resulting water was used to breed Tetras.
Killies are easy to breed. Because of that, "we may have
a hard time understanding why anyone would age water," David points out.
"However, keep in mind that tetras are rather difficult to breed, and such
fish require much special attention – especially to the water. There has to be
a proper balance of ions and trace elements for a successful breeding episode to
occur.
"I happen to have a collection of ‘old’
literature," David continues. One such book, dating from the 1950s, is
Breeding Aquarium Fish from Datz, translated into English. "It is a joy
to see how these pioneers went about breeding their fish. What efforts they
would go to. Raising cyclops, going to forest streams to find the right water,
etc. For breeding neons they would age the water for at least a month."
We may have it simpler today, but we still need to think
carefully about how we properly age the water we use, to most benefit our fish.
Consider your water handling process: are you doing what is necessary to provide
the best water to meet the needs of your fish?
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter,
December 2002
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You’re designing,
or updating, your fishroom air handling system, but you’re not quite certain
what type of system to consider.
Allen Johnson,
in an e-mail on the Killitalk mail list on February 25, 2001, addressed this
very question. Perhaps some of his observations can aid in your decision making.
"I have
approximately 50 aquaria supplied by a central air system," Allen wrote.
"I have used both compressors and my present blower." Both supplied
adequate amounts of air, and purchase and operational costs are about the same.
Advantages of a Compressor
1. A
compressor can supply air to a storage tank, which can be bled off as needed.
2. The higher
pressure obtainable from a compressor is capable of moving air to deeper
aquaria.
Advantages of a Blower
1. A blower
is significantly quieter. The only real noise is the bubbling of the filters and
water movement.
2. A blower is
very low maintenance.
Disadvantages of a Compressor
1. A
compressor generates much more noise, which may be objectionable (especially if
located close to living areas).
2. Many
compressors require changing diaphrams when they wear out (perhaps every couple
of years or so).
3. Compressors
generate waste heat. This can be either an advantage or a disadvantage,
depending on fishroom conditions.
Disadvantages of a Blower
1. High
back pressure may shorten vane life. If you need to move air to deep tanks you
may have to replace the vanes in a few years.
2. Blowers
generate very little waste heat.
"For
me," says Allen, "the blower is the better choice.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter,
month
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A number of materials will make effective covers for your
tanks at considerably less expense than the glass covers available from
suppliers. Aquarists have experimented with various materials, and have found
several that meet the fishkeepers needs quite well.
"I’ve been using 1/2" fluorescent light grids on
some of my larger tanks," says Donna Recktenwalt. "It’s quite
effective at keeping the fish in; it works well to feed and replace water
through, and allows light through as well." She has a 10-gal. light hood
fixture sitting atop the grid over a 20 gal. tank. "The gridding does allow
for quite a bit of evaporation, but that may not be a problem for some."
John Alegre has another suggestion. "Purchase Styrene
light fixture material." This comes in 4x8 ft. sheets, in both clear and
opaque forms, and is usually available in the lighting section of home supply
stores, right near the fluorescent grids. It will bow and fall into a
tank," John says, "but if you cut a piece the same size as the
1/2" grid material you can epoxy the Styrene over the top of the grid
material and have the best of both worlds." A modification he has found
useful is to use the opaque Styrene over the grid near the back of the tank,
then cut a second piece for the front and epoxy a marble or old bottle cap to
the middle of it for a handle. This allows for easy feeding and water changes.
"Once constructed, these things last for years," he says.
If you have (or buy) a glass cutter, you can make your own
tops, advises George Davis. A good source of used glass is old storm windows.
Take them apart and use the glass for tanks, tops, and "collection
pieces" atop worm cultures. Glass won’t warp, and you can affix a
"handle" on it.
Glass cutting is actually pretty easy, advises Bill
Shenefelt.
For those not so handy, John Wubbolt says that he goes to his
local hardware store and has plate glass cut to fit his tanks. For 2.5 or 5 gal.
tanks the cost is about a dollar each; for 10 gal. tanks a couple of bucks.
"All you need is some emery paper to take the sharper edges off the sides,
which are left after the glass is cut. Another potential source is a local frame
shop. "Check what kind of glass cutter they use," advises Nick Ternes.
"Many use a computer calibrated cutter that cuts very straight."
If in doubt of the quality you may get, you can take along a
sample tank cover, and impress on the cutters the importance of the glass being
cut square, and fitting the tank properly.
"I’ve tried the Styrene and the acrylic stuff and have
found it to be too flimsy and flexible to suit me," says George Caruso.
"I have used the plastic grid material found in craft shops" with a
plastic channel as a frame around the edges to keep the grid stiff enough.
Plastic channel is sold at hardware stores for use with plastic or acrylic
window material. He cuts it to length, then cuts the ends at a 45 degree angle.
Once in place, he uses a hot glue gun to connect the pieces. "The drawback
is that it does not slow evaporation," he says, and is only suitable for
fairly small tanks.
"I use glass and plastic covers," says Lee Harper.
Acrylic (Plexiglas and Lucite) warps due to expansion on the humid side.
Polystyrene works fine, and I have used the diffusion panels sold for light
fixtures."
-- GCKA Newsletter, July 2003
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Ammonia – it’s an invisible killer
We can’t avoid it – ammonia. It’s one of the most common
causes of unexplained deaths in the aquarium. It occurs in fish waste and is
produced in the decomposition of plants, fish, and uneaten food. The nitrogen
cycle helps convert ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate, which can be taken up
by plants, but sometimes that isn’t enough.
With regular monitoring, ammonia should never
pose a threat to your fish. To prevent its buildup, the fishkeeper can utilize
appropriate plants, perform frequent water changes, use efficient chemical and
biological filtration, and maintain low stocking levels.
However, all of this may be of little use if you don’t know
what your ammonia levels are. The simplest way to measure it is with a test kit.
These come in several types: liquids, which are mixed with a sample of aquarium
water; powders and tablets, which must be dissolved in the water sample; and
sample strips, which are simply dipped into the water. All tests are then
compared against color samples to determine the amount of ammonia present.
Once you have determined your ammonia level, you need to
determine the best course to adjust it, if necessary. The first (and most
obvious) step is to do a partial water change. This will immediately reduce the
ammonia levels.
If you have a heavily stocked tank, move the fish into a
larger tank, or divide them among several tanks.
If you’re using no plants, try adding some. For killikeepers
the plant of choice is probably Java Moss, which grows under most light
conditions and is well known for its water filtering qualities. For brighter
light conditions, Najas Grass, Hornwort, or Watersprite may work well.
Cut back on feeding your fish. Overfeeding is one of the most
common causes for tank problems. Feeding less, or feeding the same amount less
soften, may improve conditions.
Given appropriate conditions and good care, most aquariums
will be a pleasure to the fishkeeper.
Reference: Brodie, Colin G., B.Sc. Hons. "Ammonia:
How to track an Invisible Killer."
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter - November 2003
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In many tropical waters the oxygen content is too low to
support aquatic life that rely on their gills. A number of species have
developed an auxiliary breathing organ that allows them to survive in oxygen
deficient waters by enabling them to extract atmospheric oxygen from the air.
This supplemental supply is vital to the fishes’ well being.
Most aquarists are familiar with the armored Corydoras
and Callichthys catfishes, which make regular and rapid dashes to the
surface to gulp in air. Certain species will die, even if living in well
oxygenated water, if denied direct access to air.
The operation of the auxiliary breathing organ varies among
species. Lungfish take in air through their lungs, or through a lunglike air
bladder. Fish of the genus Clarius have a sacklike enlargement of the
gill cavities that contain vascular surfaces increasing gill efficiency.
Erythrinus and Gymnarchus species have a
vascularized inner surface of the air bladder which can absorb oxygen from
swallowed air.
In the Labyrinth fishes, the additional breathing organ is
located in the gill cavities, which are extended forward, behind and above, into
the skull. A passage runs from the mouth through the first and second gill
arches. Swallowed air goes directly into the labyrinth cavity, which is lined
with blood vessels, thus absorbing oxygen directly into the bloodstream.
Reference:
Lewis, Dr. Peter Anthony. "Fishy Trivia," Freshwater and
Marine Aquarium, June 1988, p. 15.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February-March 2003
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Got a rash on your
arms or hands? Been working in your aquarium recently?
Rashes and
scratches are not uncommon among aquarists. We get them from the edges of hoods
and frames, from the sharp edges on glass covers, and from rough-edged rocks
used as décor, especially when we have been working with our hands and arms
deep inside a tank.
Ordinary frame
abrasion can be further irritated by the mineral encrustations left by splashing
water and breaking bubbles from filters and airstones. Add to that the
accumulation of gunk along the rim – algae, bacteria, decaying fish food –
and you have a ripe area of irritation that can trigger allergic reactions in
some people. These are usually fairly minor in nature and can be easily treated
with antibiotic or anti-itch salves as required.
But there are
sometimes more serious effects. In freshwater tanks, Mycobacterium fortuitum
can result in swelling and reddened, raised lumps in humans, usually on the
hands and fingers, which are cooler than the more muscular arms. These
infections can be difficult to treat, even with antibiotics prescribed by a
doctor.
Irritations
and/or infections may also occur where an aquarist received an injury from a
fish spine, or partway up the arm, from rubbing against the aquarium frame.
If symptoms
persist, see a doctor, and be sure to mention that you keep fish and have been
cleaning aquaria. If you’re particularly sensitive, you may want to use long
rubber gloves when working in your tanks.
Reference: Wickham, Mike. "If you have an aquarium
– and a rash – welcome to the hobby," Freshwater Q&A,"
Aquarium Fish Magazine, March 2004, p. 10.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter - July
2005
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One of the less glamorous facts of tropical fish keeping is
the occasional occurrence of parasites. Most killikeepers manage to keep white
spot (Ich) and Velvet (Oondinium) under fairly good control, but occasionally,
we’re faced with the dreaded Camallanus worm.
Until recently, the only cure for this pest (which is
noticeably visible only when fine red "threads" begin to protrude from
the anus of affected fish), was euthanasia of the fish and complete
sterilization of the tank. More recently, a treatment has been found, as
reported in a recent article by Charles Harrison. Since the larval forms of this
parasite can spread rapidly through a fishroom, early (and thorough) treatment
is recommended.
Members of the nematode family, Camallanus worms are
intestinal parasites that use a row of hook-like structures to attach to the
inside of the intestine, and feed on the fishes’ blood. Close inspection of
infected fish reveals a swollen, irritated vent area. The larval forms of the
worm use common copepods as intermediate hosts, and the infestation is easily
transmitted from tank to tank.
Early signs of the problem may go unnoticed, and include minor
swelling of the belly and lack of appetite. Later, twisted spines are not
uncommon. Eventually, the anus and reproductive organs become so inflamed that
secondary infection kills the fish.
Levacide (levamisole hydrochloride), a cattle wormer, has
proven effective against Camallanus worms. Charles has levamisole hydrochloride
available in 5 gram packets. Dissolve in 3 oz. of water to make a 5% solution; 2
ml of this will treat 2 gallons of tank water. A 5 gm packet is enough to treat
100 gals. of tank water. Use is straightforward: dose the tank, then 24 hours
later do a complete water change, vacuuming the gravel to remove any remaining
larvae.
"It’s hard to overdose with this chemical," says
Charles. "The fish in our study showed no side effects at all. Close
examination of the tank water showed no effect on … other tank flora."
Close observation of treated fish is recommended, since full impact of secondary
infections may not become visible immediately.
Reference: Harrison, Charles H. "Treatment for Camallanus." http://www.aka.org,
affiliate clubs, St. Louis K. A.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2003
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Breed Those Fish …
Nature’s in Ever Shorter Supply
Those in the killifish hobby are well aware that many species are becoming
steadily more endangered in the wild. Recent information underscores the
importance of maintaining the species we do have.
Aphyosemion elberti N’tui – has disappeared due to habitat destruction. This may turn out to be a separate species once the A. elberti populations are studied more thoroughly.
Cyprinodon alvarezi, El Potosi, Mexico – Extinct in the wild. Status in the hobby presently unknown.
Epiplatys chaperi schreiberi – Presumed extinct due to habitat destruction.
Fundulopanchax oeseri – Now extinct in the wild, although it is still in the hobby (AKA and DKG).
Fundulopanchax walkeri GH2/74 Kutunze – Extinct in Ghana due to habitat destruction.
Simpsonichthys marginatus – Extinct in nature due to habitat destruction. Under special efforts to breed and distribute this species.
If you currently have any of the above species in your
fishroom, please continue your efforts to breed them. Roger also asks that you
contact him (303) 673-0673 or e-mail RWLACN@aol.com.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2002
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Buying fish –
Wild caught, or domestically bred?
When purchasing fish, we all know that we should look for
strong, healthy stock, from a good source. Fair price factors into the decision,
but more importantly, for many killikeepers, is acquiring a particular species.
But should you purchase domestically bred fish, or wild-caught
ones?
Domestically bred fish tend to be more readily available, and
are often (but not always) lower in price. Their distinct advantage is that they
have been raised in aquaria, thus are used to the types of water conditions and
food regimens encountered, and are fairly used to be handled and having people
moving around nearby. They are usually healthy and free of disease or parasites.
They may, however, have lost some of their species vigor and genetic variability
from extended generations in aquarists’ tanks, and (if the aquarist has bred
his fish selectively) be somewhat different in appearance from their wild
cousins.
Wild fish usually have broader genetic variability and are
truer to type, but they have their own pitfalls.
"Buying wild fish is a high stakes gamble," says
Tony Terceira. "There are many times when the fish survive, acclimate and
produce plenty of eggs. There are other times when the fish … produce no
viable F1…. I have brought in fish and lost hundreds of them with 24 hours, or
over a week or two. There are many variables to consider," when they were
collected, how long they were held before shipping, when they were last fed.
"Wild-caught fish are far more likely to expire for
unexplained reasons," says Wright Huntley. "Breeding them can be from
several times to 50 times harder than for tank-born fish… Wild fish go through
many shocks that may, or may not, shorten their lives… [and] most have no
resistance to common aquatic pathogens" that farm or tank-raised fish have
developed immunities to. "Take some extra care [with wild fish], or count
on low production."
"There is an excitement in trying to produce F1 from wild
parents that is sometimes worth the risk. I warn all the people who purchase
wild fish from me that there are risks involved," Tony continues. When
buying wild fish, "It is probably better to buy more of a few
species," Tony says, "than a few of many species since you have to
expect losses."
"There is no easy answer," Tony concludes.
"Perhaps think of [buying wild fish] as going to a Casino. Never spend more
money than you can afford to do without."
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2003
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For those who may not be familiar with this parasite, Camallanus
(aka "bristle-butt") is a parasitic nematode that is most often
discovered at the late stages of infection, when the parasites protrude from the
anus of the fish, looking like small red bristles (hence the
"bristle-butt" description). Subclinically infested fish may show no
obvious symptoms beyond a general lack of vigor and breeding success, although
anecdotal evidence indicates that a subclinical infestation can cause bent
spines in juveniles and young adults. Many fish may often carry the parasite
without showing any obvious signs of infestation, beyond the general
unthriftiness.
Although Camallanus requires an intermediate host in
order to reproduce, this doesn’t help most of us since the copepods it
requires (such as Cyclops) are often already resident in our tanks. Once
present in a fishroom, the parasite spreads readily via contaminated equipment
and water.
Even though they show no obvious signs of infestation,
subclinically infested fish still spread the parasite, making its identification
and eradication difficult. Probably the best approach is to treat all
tanks and equipment when an infestation is suspected.
Treatment is usually relatively straightforward using
Levamisole hydrocholoride, a wormer approved for veterinary use.
For more detailed information on the Camallanus parasite and
using Levamisole in its treatment, see the Saint Louis Area Killifish
Association website, http://inkmkr.com/Fish/Camellanus Treatment.pdf.
-- G.C.K.A.
Newsletter, August 2004
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The case for dirty water …
Some Additional Observations
Thanks to Wright Huntley
We’ve all read and heard about it – one of the keys to having healthy
fish is regular partial water changes.
Looking for a way to set up filtration for a new tank (or
a bunch of tanks) for very little money? Here’s an idea that has been used
successfully by a number of aquarists.
Rather than spending a lot of money to purchase the number of
foam filters or plastic box filters you need, why not look to the produce
section of your local grocery store? Instead of throwing them away, why not put
those covered, clear plastic, slot-sided containers that are used for
strawberries, blueberries, etc. to another use?
For each Filter you’ll need:
1. A clear plastic slotted container with lid.
2. Something heavy, to keep the container on the bottom of the tank – a few pebbles, marbles, or some coarse aquarium gravel.
3. Some aquarium charcoal (optional).*
4. Filter medium.
a) a handful of "polyester fiberfill" (used for stuffing pillows) from your local fabric store, or
b) some open cell foam. Best is that recycled from an old filter. If using foam from another source, be certain it hasn’t been chemically treated – some foams contain mildew preventatives, etc., which can harm your fish.
c) a couple of handsful of lava rock (from your local garden store).*
5. An empty fine-mesh plastic bag, such as those used for onions; or an old pair of pantyhose or stockings.
Assemble the Filter:
1. Thoroughly wash
all components in hot water.
2. Place a shallow
layer of something heavy (marbles, pebbles, gravel, etc.) on the bottom of the
container.
3. Stitch (or knot)
one end of the mesh or hosiery to create a flattened pouch. Fill pouch with
aquarium charcoal, then stitch or knot the other end. Place on top of the
gravel/rock.
4. Top with a wad
of fiberfill, a piece of clean, open-cell foam cut to fit, or the lava rock.
5. Insert an
airline into the filter assembly, feeding it through one of the slots on the top
or side, and positioning it near the bottom of the filter package. Add an
airstone if you like, but this isn’t essential.
6. Connect the
airline and adjust flow as required.
Be sure to run the new filter in an established tank for a
while, or "seed" the new tank/filter to assure establishment of a good
bacterial colony.
Like others, these filters require regular maintenance. Remove
the media (foam or fiberfill) occasionally and rinse out sludge; rinse or
replace charcoal; and rinse any excess "gunk" from the gravel or lava
rock. Then reassemble and return to use. That’s all there is to it!
* Note: Both aquarium charcoal
and Lava rock are very light and often tend to float. Lava Rock is also
porous and sharp-edged. You’ll need to wash and wet them thoroughly and
confine them for use.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2005
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We all know that Chlorine and Chloramine can prove deadly to
our fish. Those whose water does not come from municipal supplies rarely need to
worry about chlorine and chloramine. Those of us who get our tap water from a
public supply need to know how to counter the dangers posed by these chemicals.
Removal of chlorine from your municipal tap water is easy.
Just use a good water conditioning agent, or let the water "sit" for a
day or two, and most of the chlorine present in the water will dissipate.
Removing chloramine from water to be used in aquaria is
another matter entirely. A highly stable organic compound formed when ammonia
combines with chlorine, chloramine will not dissipate naturally.
Since many municipalities now add chloramine to public water supplies in an
effort to make the water we drink safer and more pure, water for aquaria must be
treated with a conditioner designed specifically for its removal. Products such
as Stress-Coat, Chlorine and Chloramine Neutralizer, etc. work well.
If you’re not certain whether your water contains chlorine
or chloramine, you can contact your local municipal water supplier for the
information, or you can simply play it safe and always use a combination product
for aging your aquarium water.
It may be a bit of bother to use such neutralizing products
and to let your water age, but your fish will thank you for your thoughtfulness.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter - October 2003
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Cleaning the Freshwater Aquarium
There are many pitfalls in cleaning aquaria. We’ve all heard
horror stories about those who cleaned a fishtank so well (even down to using
bleach to disinfect all part of the tank and décor) that all the fish died.
Bernard Harrigan suggests the following steps to help prevent
succumbing to these pitfalls.
1. ASSESS YOUR TANK
Before you start cleaning your tank, see what needs to be done. Check out
the fish. Are there any missing? Do they appear clean and disease free?
Are fins torn, ripped or tattered? If you have catfish, are their barbels ok? Are
the plants clean and healthy? Is equipment clean and operating properly?
Is the water murky, yellowish, or full of suspended matter? Is the hood or cover
water-spotted or encrusted? If the fish are in trouble, you need to determine
the reason. The number one cause of fish illness is stress. Start by testing the
water. In most cases, a good tank cleaning/ water change will solve the problem.
2. CLEAN OFF EXCESS ALGAE
It’s almost impossible to remove all the algae from a tank, and
you don’t really want to. Algae aids in ammonia removal, partially masks
equipment and tubing, and some fish love to eat it.
Using your implement of choice (an algae pad, an old credit
card, a one-sided razor blade), clean the inside front and end panels of the
tank. Using your fingers or a soft cloth, gently wipe off the algae on plant
leaves, removing any leaves that are heavily overgrown. Clean off the heater
tube, the filter tubes and the hood. Clean excess algae off rocks and
decorations.
If your tank is overrun with algae, reduce the
hours of light it receives, either by leaving the lights on for a shorter time
period (10 hours is a good maximum), or if the tank is near a window, by moving
the tank or shading it.
If you overfeed your fish, the rotting excess food contributes
to algae growth. Cut back on the amount of food you give your fish and add
plants that will compete with the algae for any available nutrients. Floating
plants will compete for light, too. You could also add a known algae-eater, such
as a Bristlenose Pleco or Ancistrus catfish.
3. VACUUM THE GRAVEL AND DO A
WATER CHANGE
Vacuuming the gravel and removing debris-laden water are done at the same time.
If you remove debris but leave the old water, it can trigger an unwanted (and
dangerous) ammonia spike. Before you start, unplug the filter and heater.
Move decorations and rocks out of the way. Work carefully around the plants; you
don’t want to harm them or disturb their root systems. Trim off any dead or
dying leaves.
As you clean the gravel, dig into the substrate as far as you
can. Make sure the water is draining properly – if you have sufficient flow,
the gravel at the intake end of the vacuum tube will be swirling vigorously
before dropping back out. Clean only half the tank at one time; more could
trigger an ammonia spike. When you’re through cleaning, add any new plants and
return the decorations to their places before refilling the tank.
4. CLEAN THE FILTER SYSTEM
Every filter is different, but three basic types of
filtration are currently in use.
Mechanical filtration removes solid waste by
running the water through a coarse sponge, filter floss, etc. Whenever you do
water changes, rinse out the filter material in aquarium water to remove excess
debris.
Chemical filtration adjusts the water
chemically, without the benefit of bacteria. Carbon is most commonly used, but
resins, pumice, marble chips, even peat moss, may also be used. Be sure to replace
the filter medium regularly, especially carbon, which will eventually
leach back into the aquarium the toxins it has trapped. In a tank with carbon in
the filtration system, yellow water is a clear indicator that the carbon needs
changing. Note that if your tank contains driftwood, or if you use peat or
blackwater extracts, the water will also be tinted.
Biological filtration utilizes helpful bacteria
to break down ammonia. Whether the filter media is ceramic "noodles,"
bio-balls, sponge, etc., it should be rinsed of extra debris whenever you do a
water change.
5. REBUILD AND RESET-UP
Use aged tap water to refill the tank. Chlorine
will dissipate naturally when water ages, but if your water contains chloramines
(a combination of chlorine and ammonia), you’ll need to use a commercial
dechlorinating agent. You may also want to add a tonic such as Stress-Coat,
which helps protect the fishes’ slime coat. Make certain that new water is in
the same pH and temperature ranges as that in the tank.
Restart the filter, heater, and any other equipment, checking
to make certain they are operating properly.
6. CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE TANK
Start from the top. Clean the hood and light, inside
and out, removing spots and encrustations. Clean the outsides and front of the
tank. Never spray any type of cleaner directly on any part of the tank!
If you use a glass cleaner, spray on a soft cloth or paper towel, then use that
to clean the glass.
That’s it! Done monthly, this procedure should keep your
tank looking good and your fish in good health. You accepted the responsibility
for taking care of these living creatures; how long and how well they live is
directly related to the care you give them.
[Step 7 not given in The Reflector-Ed.]
Reference:
Harrigan, Bernard. "Seven Steps to Cleaning Your
Freshwater Aquarium." Originally published in Modern Aquarium,
newsletter of the Greater City Aquarium Society, November 2003. Reprinted in
part in The Reflector, newsletter of the Central New York Aquarium
Society, May 2004, Vol. 27, No. 9.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter - July 2005
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Color Variation in Killifish – It’s Nothing New
Most of us have grown used to seeing killifish that are
"normal" – red-tailed Nothobranchius patrizzi, Aphyosemion
sjoestedti with orange tails, brown-bodied Cynolebias whitei. But we
are also no longer surprised by fish that are somewhat different from the norm
for their species – Aphyosemion australe in red and gold forms, as well
as the original brown; Nothobranchius guentheri in a variety of forms –
xanthic (lacking black pigment), blushing or blue (lacking red pigment); Fundulopanchax
gardneri in "gold" and "albino" forms; Aplochileus
lineatus in gold.
Most such color "sports" are discouraged by killie
fanciers, who tend to prefer the original "wild" forms. However, other
color variations do occur among killifish. Many of them are well documented, or
reported by reputable observers, although few have been maintained in the hobby.
These include:
Albinism is one of the more common "sports" that can
occur in our tanks. According to James Langhammer, long director of the Belle
Isle Aquarium (Detroit), an albino occurs about once in every thousand fish.
Since albinism can occur for several reasons, some albinos are stronger than
others and the strain proves more robust.
Other variations occur occasionally too: unusual numbers of
black spots on the body, variations in caudal and fin coloration, or changes in
the shapes or sizes of fins. Just look at the wide variety of color and pattern
variations available among the guppies, swordtails and platies. All those
variations were developed by breeders working from "sports" that
occurred in their tanks.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2001
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We all know that vacuuming the gravel in tanks is an important
maintenance task, as important as regular water changes. But what to do if the
tank is heavily planted, or if the gravel may contain eggs, or baby fish that
you wish to save?
"I don’t think there’s a way to gravel vac without
getting some eggs and fry," says Cathy Carney. "I run the wastewater
into a bucket, then visually check for fry, using a flashlight. I usually
don’t check for eggs unless I really want more of the fish, just net out the
fry if I see any." Alternatively she dumps the wastewater through a fine
meshed net, then searches the gunk for eggs.
"When I have babies in a tank I often use my gravel vac
with a panty hose leg stretched over the large opening," says Dennis
Heltzel. He then siphons with lower pressure than usual, keeping the outflow end
higher than usual to slow the flow, and watches for fry that get caught.
"This doesn’t remove much debris," he points out, "but is very
effective for a water change…. I focus on water changes and leave the detritus
until the fry are older and can avoid the siphon more effectively."
"Make a smaller version of the gravel vac," suggests
Steve Halbasch. "I use empty plastic film canisters (clear is preferred,
but black works) and 1/4" or less ID tubing. Cut or drill a hole in the
bottom of the film canister the same diameter as the OD of the tubing. Place the
tubing through the hole and you’re done." Because this version is
smaller, the suction power is less, and being smaller, you can easily move it
around plants and other objects in the tank.
"One way to ‘clean’ a tank with eggs or fry is to
just leave the ‘gunk’ (or some of it) in place," says Donna
Recktenwalt. "Baby fish often hide in the debris, and there are lots of
microorganisms in the mulm that the fry can feed on." As for protecting the
fry, just put a fine mesh net beneath the outlet end of the siphon, then when
you are done, rinse the net out in the fry tank to release any fry that were
caught. Most will come through the experience just fine, as long as the water
flow isn’t too strong.
If the fry containers are fairly small, scooping the water out
with a clean plastic cup and pouring the water through a net to capture any
stray fry may work for you.
Eggs can be recovered from tank debris by swirling the outlet
water in small batches in a clear container. The eggs, being heavier, will sink
more quickly than the detritus, and can then be collected with a net or siphon.
This takes some time, but if you really want or need the eggs, may be a way to
harvest gravel for eggs that might otherwise be lost.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September 2003
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We’re familiar
with many of the numerous "designer" fish available to the aquarium
hobby – fancy goldfish, guppies in their numerous color designs and finnages,
balloon mollies, veiltail angelfish, the many color forms of discus,
"painted" glassfish–and more recently, the genetically enhanced
Glofishã , a modified form of the Zebrafish, or
Zebra Danio (Rerio danio).
Among killifish
breeders the intent is to maintain species as closely as possible to their
original, wild forms. Although occasional sports do occur, on the whole
killifish fanciers breed for the betterment of the species, not for the
commercial trade.
For some time
now, commercial fish breeders in Singapore have been producing the gold form of Aplocheilus
lineatus (the Golden Wonder) and Jordanella floridae (the American
Flagfish) for the hobbyist trade. Recently, they have developed a Short-bodied
Flag Fish. This may be good for the breeders, and perhaps for the aquarium hobby
as a whole, but what if some of these specialty forms or genetically modified
fish or their offspring get into habitats that suit them, or into their natural
waters?
Probably, say
the experts, not much.
The chance of a
domestically bred fancy form of a species getting back into the species’
natural habitat and successfully reproducing is doubtful at best. In nature,
those individuals that are different, that stand out, that cannot move as
quickly, etc. soon become prey, leaving few if any offspring behind. Even if
such a fish did survive and reproduce, the enhanced features would soon
disappear into the gene pool, just as dogs allowed to breed indiscriminately
revert in several generations to the base type.
So perhaps we
really don’t need to worry about Short-bodied Flag Fish or GloFishã
at all. And perhaps, now that major breeders have succeeded in breeding a fancy
variety of one killifish species, they’ll try breeding some of the other
attractive ones for the commercial market, thus exposing more would-be aquarists
to the advantages and beauty these fish have to offer.
And that
thought isn’t all that bad.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, July
2005
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A Few Things That I’ll Bet You Didn’t Know You Needed
… Every aquarist knows that there are basics you must have in
order to successfully keep fish.
Water.
Water conditioner, to neutralize chlorine and
chloramine.
A container. Usually – but not
necessarily – an aquarium.
Gravel
and plants (both optional,
depending on the type of aquarium and the fish), and, of course, fish.
A cover is useful, to reduce evaporation, and to
keep the fish inside the aquarium and potential predators (and children’s
fingers) outside.
You’ll need a net to catch your fish, and fish
food.
Most tanks have a light, for plant growth and to
better view the fish. Many people add a timer, to automatically
turn the lights on and off.
A filter keeps the water moving and traps debris
and waste materials, keeping the water clearer. Depending on the filter system
you choose, you may need an air pump, airline tubing,
and gang or connection valves.
A thermometer is often useful, and a heater
will help to maintain the temperature.
That pretty much covers the essentials, but there are a
few other items that many fishkeepers find useful.
A bucket, for those required water changes. It
doesn’t have to be anything fancy. Any watertight plastic bucket with a
capacity of 1-5 gallons (depending on how much weight you can carry) will do
just fine. Just be sure to wash it out thoroughly before you use it the first
time.
A test kit is a good thing to have on hand, to
monitor water quality and check for causes when problems crop up.
A siphon hose is helpful when doing water
changes. This is simply a length of 1/2" or larger tubing, cut to a
convenient length. Fill it with water, block both ends with your fingers or
thumbs, then insert one end in the aquarium to be drained, and the other end
into the waste container, located at a lower level. Remove your thumbs and the
water will flow. You can add a gravel vacuum at the intake end.
This is simply a wide length of plastic tubing that can be pushed into the
gravel. The swirling action of the water in this section lifts and removes
debris; the heavier gravel drops back into the tank.
You may need a scraper for keeping the inside
glass clean. You can purchase an algae pad for this purpose, or you can use a
single edged razor blade or one of your expired credit cards.
One of the most useful items around aquaria may be a turkey
baster. Use it to fill the siphon tube when doing water changes, to feed
live or thawed brine shrimp or worms (add water to make a thick liquid or thin
slurry), or to move baby fish (assuming you can catch them). In a big tank you
may have to net fry first, then remove them using the siphon or a plastic cup.
Tiny fry are delicate, and will do much better if moved in water than if lifted
out of the tank with a net.
Aquarium salt is a good general
tonic to have on hand. To dole it out, keep a measuring spoon
handy.
Chlorine Bleach is always useful. Borrow some
from the laundry area and dilute it with water to disinfect aquarium equipment.
Be certain to rinse items thoroughly and completely air dry before use; bleach
residues can kill fish.
Undoubtedly as you get more involved in the aquarium hobby
you’ll find even more items that you find useful around the fishroom –
eyedroppers, miscellaneous jars and plastic containers, air line clips,
airstones (diffusers), a marker pen – the list goes on.
Next time you’re around other fishkeepers, ask them what
items they wouldn’t do without!
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2003
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A useful material that many killikeepers never consider for
use in the fishroom is filter floss. If you’re an old-timer, you remember the
fiberglass floss that we used to use in filters, and how difficult it was to
handle. You probably even remember getting bits of the material into your hands
and fingers, where it itched and acted like splinters until eventually working
its way out.
We’ve come a long way since then. However, filter floss is
still with us, but in a different, much more user friendly form. We’re talking
about polyester fiberfill, the material used to fill pillows, easily available
in most craft, yarn, or fabric stores for a minimal price.
It’s cheap, versatile, wonderful stuff!
"Floss has endless fishroom uses," points out Wright
Huntley. "Plugging bottles of cultures, filling box filters, wiping algae
off glass are only a start.
"Whether in the form of bats that can be cut to size, or
just torn-off wads from the kind sold for stuffing pillows, I think folks
don’t realize what a terrific spawning medium polyester fiber can be,"
says Wright.
European breeders have long maintained numerous
"extinct" species of pupfish (which are illegal to keep in the U.S.),
using a wad of poly fiber on the tank bottom as the preferred spawning medium.
The slightly amber eggs are easy to see in the white floss.
Wright says that he also rolls a sheet of coarse plastic
canvas (1mm+ holes) into a cylinder, stuffs it with floss and caps the ends with
PVC pipe cap. "This makes a superb spawning trap for Lampeyes [and other
fish] … that like to spawn in crevices. Placed in a current from a power head,
the eggs are out of reach and don’t get eaten, but do get lots of
oxygen."
An additional use is to lay thin (1/4-1/2") layer of poly
over the filter plate in an undergravel filter. Topped with fairly fine sand,
filter floss produces an unusually effective biofilter without clogging the
filter plate.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2003
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The "Filth Factor" in Killifish Tanks
Every killikeeper has his/her own idea of what constitutes a
good killifish tank. From "squeaky clean" as practiced by some of our
European hobbyists, to "filthy," we all have our own individual
methods and preferences as to how clean a tank should be.
The fish don’t usually care, as long as their basic needs
are met – good food, sufficiently clean water, enough room, and suitable cover
– plants, mops decorations, etc.
According to the "Komarak Filth Factor Index," a
tongue-in-cheek measure of tank cleanliness vs. the resulting quality of the
fish, the more attention and cleaning efforts expended by the fishkeeper, the
greater the decrease in quality of the resulting fish.
This may be a humorous explanation of why some killikeepers do
well with tanks that are less than pristine, but it does point out a basic
truth: the fewer objects or items you have in a tank, the more effort it takes
to keep the tank functional. A bare tank with only a filter requires more effort
to keep clean. Sludge, mulm, and decaying food must be removed from the bottom,
and water changes must be conducted regularly. Bacteria growths on the tank
walls and bacteria blooms in the water may occur more often.
Making a tank hospitable to the fish by adding a substrate
(usually gravel) and some plants goes a long way toward making the fish
comfortable, and thus productive. Gravel provides surfaces for beneficial
bacteria, which aid in maintaining water quality, and provides a
"bottom," making the fish feel more secure. Plants provide cover and
hiding places for the fish; utilize nutrients from the water, thus aiding in
keeping good water quality; and maintain microfauna on their surfaces which
provide food for fry. This biological action, aided by the benefits of
mechanical filtration using a foam or undergravel filter, goes a long way toward
keeping the tank stable and in good condition for longer periods of time.
For most killikeepers, plants of choice include the Cryptocorenes,
the Aponogetons, Anubias, Java Moss and Java Fern, all of which
are fairly hardy and enjoy the lower lighting levels preferred by those keeping
killifish. For environments with higher light levels, Najas Grass and Hygrophilia
are often used.
-- G.C.K.A.
Newsletter, August 2004
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Sometimes we encounter a fish that has an
unusually aggressive personality, one that runs counter to the usual behavior
for its species.
"I remember a local female A.
schioetzi – back in the 70s when they were called christyi,"
says Scott Davis, in a message on the Killietalk mail list. "Males of the
strain popular then tended to really drive their females ... [so] they were at a
premium. Ron Coleman reluctantly gave me his extra female with the warning that
she had annilhilated his male. She was fairly husky … [but] I figured no
problem, I’ll put her in with two males. After I had disposed of the dead
males I gave her, with cautions, to someone else, whose males proceeded to get
beaten up."
Personality changes have long been seen in
spawning cichlids and other fish, but spawning behavior may not be the only
reason for compatibility/incompatibility issues.
Most fish are "better behaved"
when well fed and given plenty of room, lots of hiding places, with excellent
quality water at the lower end of their temperature range.
The presence of females can have a direct
effect on behavior. Males that will get along fairly peacefully in a single sex
tank will often begin to spar (and perhaps actively do battle) if females are
introduced.
Males may unexpectedly decide to set up a
favorite spawning spot and defend it against all comers.
Fish raised together as fry tend to get
along better than fish that are mixed together when they are older.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2003
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Some of the "other critters"
Freshwater Shrimp
We may keep aquaria primarily for the beauty and fascination
of the fish and plants, but we all know that there are any number of other
living creatures that share their aquatic habitat, both in captivity and in
nature.
Some we couldn’t do very well without – the beneficial
bacteria that form the foundation for the biological filtration cycle, for
example. Some are nearly always present. Even in the best-kept aquaria you’ll
often find Oodinium spores, tiny flatworms, and some type of snails.
Some creatures sneak in when we aren’t looking closely
enough – hydra, predatory insect larvae, leeches.
Although few fishkeepers are willing to provide them precious
tank space or run the risk of losing valued fish or fry to possible predation,
there are also a number of other creatures that will live quite happily in
aquaria – clawed frogs, newts, large decorative snails, crayfish, and
freshwater shrimp.
Aquarists are probably most familiar with the Brine Shrimp, Artemia
salina. These have long been a mainstay food for tropical fishes, in both
their adult and larval forms.
There are also a number of freshwater shrimps that can make
interesting aquarium inhabitants, either alone or in the company of fishes. The
following aer all fairly small, moderately active, and feed solely on decaying
plant matter, thus posing no danger to fish. In actual fact, the fish may
endanger the shrimp, considering small enough specimens as a potential snack.
Many aquarists are already familiar with Gammarus,
or Ghost Shrimp. These little fellows, slightly larger than adult brine
shrimp, are often fed to fish. They will live happily with small peaceful
species of fish, feeding on debris and swimming vigorously around their
environment.
One aquarist has found that a Ghost Shrimp can be a valuable
ally when incubating killifish eggs. Lok Kwek Leong places Aphyosemion
australe (AUS) eggs, which he has found to be subject to fungus, on stands
of Java Moss to incubate, then adds a Ghost Shrimp to the container. The shrimp
"clean" the eggs, picking them up and eating the tiny particles
attached to them, but not harming the eggs. The accumulating shrimp droppings on
the bottom of the container seem to cause no problem, and more eggs incubate
successfully for him with this system.
We discuss Glass Shrimp and Grass Shrimp (both Palaemonetes
sp,; pictured above) together, since they are similar in size, habits,
and availability, and are often confused, both by dealers and by aquarists.
These little shrimps are avid scavengers that busily search the substrate and
plants for food. They have fairly small pincers so pose no danger to small fish,
and may even be cultivated by the aquarist. Keep them in groups, in either
shrimp-only or community tanks containing nonaggressive species. They prefer a
pH of 6.8-7.4, with water temperatures of 74ºF and above. Be sure to provide
plenty of plants and hiding places, since stress can lead to illness.
Commercially, these shrimps are raised in fairly large
numbers, with the males and females kept together. Egg-laden females are removed
weekly and placed temporarily in fine mesh baskets in a grow-out tank. After
their larvae have hatched, they are returned to the main tank. Larvae are fed on
algae and rotifers at first, then baby brine shrimp and flake food.
Resources:
Lok Kwek Leong. "How I incubate Lyretails’ eggs."
http:www.killie.com/Incubating2.
Purser, Philip A. "Spineless Wonders." Aquarium Fish Magazine,
December 2001, pp. 18-27
Rosenqvist, Mark. "Grass Shrimp Culture." Freshwater and Marine
Aquarium, August 1993.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September 2005
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The healing properties of garlic are well known in humans, but
use it for fish? Recent studies seem to indicate that it can be beneficial.
Don’t ever say that fish aren’t smart…
Hunting Strategy
Gary Elson reports that at one point he had too many Pterolebias
longipinis, so put some in with a group of Apistogramma cacatuoides.
Everyone got along fine, until the Apistos spawned.
"The female (never male) Pteros would drift at the surface in a four
point, nose in position until they were motionless above the cichlid fry.
"Then they would drop, one at a time, into the gaggle of cichlid fry,
grabbing a fry and drawing the mother’s attack as their sisters dropped from
other angles.
"It was a wolfpack hunting strategy – coordinated and deadly.
The timing of the attacks was perfect."
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter – April 2001
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No matter how
careful, from time to time every aquarist is visited by the pest known as hydra.
Although unsightly, hydra seem to do
little harm in tanks with grown fish. In fry tanks, however, they can be a real
problem, because they not only compete with fry, but also will eat fry.
Freshwater hydra are fairly small,
seldom reaching 1/4 inch long, with a long, slender base and threadlike arms
that extend and retract. They occur in various colors–white, gray, green, or
brown, depending on the species and on the symbiotic algae they contain. They
also vary in their number of tentacles and budding sites for vegetative
reproduction. Hydra feed on microscopic or very small live foods, including baby
brine shrimp, daphnia, and the occasional small fish. Reproduction is both
sexual (eggs/embryos) and asexual (budding).
Hydra are easily introduced to or
spread among tanks. They can be transferred on anything that has been in an
infested tank: nets, plants, filters, thermometers, suction cups, air lines,
live foods, even, possibly, fish. Hydra cysts are highly resistant to adverse
environmental conditions.
Fortunately, there are a number of
possible control agents for hydra, both natural and chemical. The following are
a few of the potential control measures.
"Natural" Control Measures
Heat will kill hydra, but the high
temperatures required (100°F for 1 to 2 hours) forces removal of fish and
plants, and "won’t ensure against recolonization from resting eggs,"
according to Brian Skidmore.
Predatory Fish include
various gouramis (especially Trichogaster tricopterus), the livebearers Limia
perugiae, and Heterandria formosa (the Least Killifish), fish of the
Botia and Betta species, and some of the dwarf cichlids. South American
Ramshorn Snails have been reported to eat hydra. "Three or four of
them about dime size will rid a 10 gallon tank in a week, and completely clean
up the tank in three weeks," says Charles Harrison, although others have
reported less satisfactory results.
Salt is easily available in
the fishroom, and many killikeepers routinely add it to their conditioned water
as a general tonic. However, for hydra control salt levels may become toxic to
fish and/or plants. "Salt for 7 days a 3.0 ppt works well if your fish are
not salt sensitive," says Rick Haeffner of the Denver Zoo.
Chemical Means of Control
Alum sulfate
is commonly used to put the crunch in pickles, but
according to Roger Sieloff, a 10% solution will kill snails and hydra without
killing plants (if they aren’t exposed to it for more than a half hour or so).
"Think of it as ‘sheep dip,’" says Roger. "Take the fish out
of the tank first … unless you like pickled herring."
Ammonium
Nitrate may not be practical for many fishkeepers,
since it is a chemical/fertilizer that is usually available at local feed stores
in 50 lb. bags. However, Brian Skidmore reports that "at a dosage of 1/4
tsp. of granules per 10 gal of water (half this dosage for sensitive
fish–start at the lower dosage if you’re not sure), this treatment was
effective if repeated in one week after a 30% water change. Caution, overdosing
will kill your fish."
Aquarisol
is good against hydra if you double the recommended dose of 12 drops to 10
gallons of water. "The 24 drops to 10 gallons hasn’t hurt my Java moss or
fish in the several years I’ve used it," reports Ross Cronkhite. The
hydra "will close up within an hour; 24 hours later if they haven’t
fallen off the tank I dose again and they totally disappear." After that,
Ross runs a charcoal filter for 24 hours.
Bausman’s Fish Tonic
is readily available at aquarium supply stores and is easy to use, at a
recommended dosage of 1 tsp. per gallon. "I started using Bausman’s Tonic
and since then, I have not seen one hydra," reports William Wasserman.
"I guess it works!" The "tonic" is actually recommended as a
general additive in small doses. "This stuff was fantastic," enthuses
Harry Kuhman. "No problems at all with any fish and it dealt with hydra
every time I ever had a problem. Instructions said it would take 3 days to clear
the tank of hydra and it did exactly that." Retreatment is sometimes
required to destroy newly hatched hydra which were resting on the tank bottom.
Bleach
is readily available in any supermarket. "It
works great, but you have to take down the entire tank and start over for it to
be successful," says Brian Skidmore.
Clout, a
commercial product, has also been recommended as a hydra treatment. However,
Brian Skidmore reports that "using this medication, I over-treated, killing
some of my fish." Copper Sulfate. Most invertebrates and some
killifish are extremely sensitive to copper compounds, particularly Nothobranchius
and Cynolebias. "I’m a great fan of copper sulphate," says
Andrew Broome. "It’s a pretty blue color and it kills things, dead."
He used a dilute copper sulphate solution (very pale blue color) on a tank that
was more hydra than fish, and kept adding it until the snails were dead.
"Then I added a bit more, left it for 24 hours, and did a 100% water
change." The fish were transferred back; the plants survived without any
problems, and no more hydra were seen.
"You could [also] use a
commercial copper mixture designed for curing oodinium infections, or add a
couple of copper pennies (not the newer zinc-clad ones) to a 10 gallon
tank," says David Keller.
Freshwater Copper Safe
(by Mardel) is supposedly safe for fish, but not so for all snails and plants.
It will kill hydra.
Cure
by Aquarium Products is a combination of Formaldehyde and Malachite Green.
"One drop per gallon, followed by another treatment daily until the hydra
are gone is safe, in my hands," advises Harry Specht.
Fluke
Tabs will "kill hydra without hurting the fish or the plants,"
reports John Wubbolt.
Formaldehyde is by far the most highly recommended
chemical treatment for hydra. The best treatment is 37% drug-store
formaldehyde, administered at the rate of about 3-5 drops per 5 gallons every
other day for at least three or four doses. Formaldehyde usually works without
harm to either fish or plants and is absorbed quickly by plant debris, mops,
filter floss, etc., so no carbon filtering is needed to remove it. It only lasts
for about two days in the tank before breaking down or being absorbed. "The
first treatment cases the hydra to close up for a while, but then to respread,"
says Wright Huntley. "The second and third treatments are needed to be
lethal, and maybe even one more time."
"Hydra
killing is safe and easy," says Charles Harrison. "Three drops of 37%
formaldehyde solution per gallon will kill off even the heaviest infestation
without bothering either the fish or the plants." His method?
1) Change the tank water, all of it.
2) Add 3 drops of 37% formaldehyde solution per gallon.
3) The next day or the second day, change the tank water again.
4) Watch the tank after brine shrimp feeding and repeat procedure if needed.
Heavily planted
tanks or tanks with undergravel filters may take three treatments to be
successful. Overdosing (more than 5 drops per gallon) should be avoided."
"Two drops per gallon of 37%
formaldehyde is safe for fish and is used by many public aquariums as standard
quarantine protocol," according to Rick Haeffner of the Denver Zoo.
Quick
Cure (Aquarium Products). A simple treatment
available to anyone within reach of an aquarium store. "This is a
combination of formaldehyde and malachite green. One drop per gallon, followed
by another treatment daily until the hydra are gone." This treatment
"is safe in my hands, and saves all the trouble and expense of acquiring a
bottle of 37% formalin and needing only a few drops for the treatment,"
says Harry Specht.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June
2001.
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It’s
in the Genes….
A
Quick Course in Inheritance
Not too long ago, a question was
asked on the Killietalk Mailing List about inheritance of the factor for blue
tails in Nothobranchius
guentheri.
"It is probable that the blue tail color is due to a mutation in a protein
that makes the typical red pigmentation in the tail," Eric Lund replied.
"A male with two copies of this mutated gene would fail to produce the red
tail pigmentation, thereby unmasking an underlying blue tail color....
"The bluetailed mutation is
recessive, which means that if you continue to line breed you will get only
males with blue tails. If you cross a blue tailed male to a female of the normal
aquarium strain you should get only males with red tails in the next generation
(F1), but the following generation of offspring would be 25% blue tailed."
In clarification, genetically each
parent contributes a single set of genes to their offspring, resulting in two
sets of genes in the young. Designating "R" as the normal (dominant)
gene for red tail, and "r" as the recessive gene for non-red tail
(blue), the following results:
1. If you breed a blue tailed male ("rr") to an aquarium strain female
("RR"), their offspring will all be "Rr" (red tailed,
carrying the blue recessive factor).
2. If you then breed the resulting fry ("Rr"), brother to sister, you
will get 25% "RR" (pure red tail), 50% "Rr" (red tail, blue
recessive), and 25% "rr" (pure blue tail).
"The trick to fixing these sorts of strains," says Eric Lund, "is
to remember that the females carry the genes too, but they do not show what
their phenotype is. If I had a killie strain with a recessive trait that popped
up fairly frequently and I wanted a true breeding strain from it, I would do the
following:
1. Isolate each female separately in a spawning tank.
2. Breed each female only to males showing the recessive trait.
3. Collect and label the spawns from each female separately.
4. Raise the offspring from each female in separate, labeled containers.
If the trait you’re selecting for is from a single recessive gene and the
mutation is common enough that you had at least one homozygous recessive female
("rr"), her male offspring should all be the same. Fish from
containers where all the males show the trait will breed true.
If all the tanks have only males of
the normal phenotype, then you didn’t have any homozygous recessive females as
breeders. This is because the gene is quite rare and you didn’t have enough
females.
If tanks of offspring from separately bred females have males with both
phenotypes, then the trait you are selecting for is not due to a single
recessive mutation, and other tactics are required to produce a strain that will
breed true.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2001 Return to top of page
You may have wondered, when attending a killifish show, just how one pair of
fish is selected a winner over perhaps dozens of others in its class, and just
who actually judges these fish and determines which are better?
"Judges,"
says Charlie Nunziata, past Chairman of the AKA Judging Committee, "are
highly experienced killie hobbyists" who have expressed an interest in
becoming judges, who have been certified by the Judging Committee, and "who
have examined ... thousands of pairs of killies." They are encouraged to
read everything available on killifish in order to keep current, and to study
killifish whenever they have the opportunity.
Specimens
are judged with respect to the characteristics of their kind. Many species have
significant characteristics that are well known, such as the tri-lobed caudal of
the Blue Gularis, or the fin extensions on Aphyosemion australe. A judge
will look for those characteristics. "The ideal [specimen] … is the one
that best expresses the size, shape, color and behavior expected."
Strong,
healthy, well matched, damage-free and vibrant specimens will score high,
regardless of variations in color pattern. Both the male and the female of the
pair must be healthy and compatible, leading to the assumption that given the
chance, they will breed.
The
experience of the judge is paramount. The AKA Judging Program attempts to guide
judges by providing a well designed pointing system, which requires judges to
focus on specific characteristics, then total the points awarded for each. The
often subtle deficiencies on a given fish will determine its ultimate point
score.
Of
the 100 available points that can be awarded to a pair of fish, 11 relate to
color and pattern, 40 to condition and compatibility, 21 to body size, shape and
condition, and 28 to non-color related fin features.
The
Judging Program consists of four documents: a Judging Standard; Judging
Certification; a New Judge’s Guide; and an Annual convention class list of
species. The judging process and accreditation of new judges are maintained and
implemented by the AKA Judging Committee.
There
is no formal training program for new judges, but potential judges are regularly
certified by the Judging Committee. Those who wish to become judges may either
judge a class (or classes) at a sanctioned show and have their scores compared
to the actual judging scores; or they may take a judging test from a
certification slide set prepared by the Judging Committee.
For
those who would like further information about becoming accredited as a judge,
contact the American Killifish Association at www.aka.org.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August
2002.
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Basically, judging
is common sense, says Charlie Nunziata, an accredited AKA judge. "The goal
of the AKA is propagation of killifish.... The central theme of the judging
system is that the candidate should be representative of the species." Thus
if the fish are representative of their species, are healthy, and the pair is
compatible with a high probability of breeding, they will score well.
"The point
system is designed to reward such a candidate," Charlie says, "and
thereby encourage the entry of good breeding stock that represents the
species."
In addition,
"representative of the species is exactly what it says." Candidates
should have proper fin and body shape, color pattern, and attitude expected for
the species. Males are awarded a total of 55 points; females 35, and 10 points
more are allotted for pair characteristics. So the female should be the proper
size in respect to the male, and of equal quality.
"What will
always score high is the vibrant, ‘brimming with health’ ... pair,"
Charlie adds.
"We’re
not looking for the biggest fish," adds accredited judge Dave Price.
"Some people seem to think that the biggest, or brightest, fish should
always be the winner. Because the judging guidelines stress the overall breeding
potential and compatibility of a pair, this isn’t always the case. A younger,
stronger, better matched pair of fish will often win over an older, bigger pair
simply because they have more breeding potential or the partners are more evenly
matched."
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2003
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Just how big is that aquarium?
To calculate the
capacity of any size of rectangular aquarium, multiply the length times the
width times the depth (in inches), then divide by 231. That will give you the
capacity in gallons.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January
2003
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In some manner, all
of us need to keep at least some records.
At the very
least we need to document what fish we have, and which eggs and fry belong to
which species. The precise form of these records may vary. It may mean simply
marking the tanks, or it may involve maintenance of a master computer record.
Most aquarists (and their needs) fall somewhere in between these two extremes.
At the very
least you should document the species name, the collection code and the strain
information, and where and when you got the fish. Additional information may
include spawning and hatching dates, sales information (what you sold, when, and
to whom), and maintenance and breeding information (water conditions, breeding
procedures, foods, tank sizes, etc.)
How to keep it
all straight?
The answer
varies, but generally falls into two separate tasks: identifying the individual
tanks, fish bags and batches of eggs and fry, and documenting acquisitions and
dispersals. The first involves marking or labeling, the second keeping some sort
of log or diary.
Marking the Tanks, Bags, etc.
"In my
chemistry and biology labs," says George R. Trumbull, "we always used
grease pencils. ... [They are] good for marking tanks as to species etc. and can
be removed with acetone or nail polish remover. Non-toxic and no fumes."
"If I get
fish in labeled bags, I peel off or cut out the label and attach it to the new
tank," says Wright Huntley. Later, "I print [computer] labels with the
basic name, collection code, etc. on regular Avery mailing-label stock. I leave
as much white space as practical. Each tank gets a label, with a pencil note of
source/date, etc." He then uses copies of the labels on hatching
containers, bags of peat, storage bags, tanks, etc., "and always
for sale or club auction. Most importantly, the labels always have my name,
phone number and e-mail address, so whoever buys [my fish] has a way to reach
me."
If the ink on
the labels isn’t waterproof, you’ll need to tape over the label to prevent
smearing.
Magic Marker on
Scotch "Magic" tape is another solution, Wright adds.
If you aren’t
using adhesive labels, marking bags is another matter. Most aquarists use
fine-tipped "Sharpie" markers, which are clear and don’t smear when
wet. However, there may be some transference of chemistry into the bag.
"Sharpie" markers, points out Lee Harper, "smell
like isopropyl alcohol.... I will write on an outer bag, but not on one
containing the fish."
Broad-tipped
markers may add toluene to the water in the bags. Test a bag before using it by
filling with air and tying off, then writing all over with the marker. Let it
set for a while. Open the bag and smell the air. If it has an odor, don’t use
that marker on a bag for fish or eggs.
General Documentation
Long-term
documentation may include 3x5 cards, diaries, loose-leaf notebooks, or computer
spreadsheets.
"I’ve
always just kept a diary where I write down the events that happen daily,"
says Doug Karpa-Wilson. "Some of these factors change daily (temperature,
pH, appearance of diseases or breeding behaviors), while others change weekly or
never (diet, plants)" etc. However, since all information is in
chronological order, it may be difficult to search for specific information.
A different
approach is documentation by species. "I maintain a loose-leaf
notebook," says Donna Recktenwalt, "with a page for each species.
Basic information goes there – where I got the fish, how many, how much I
paid, what kind of tank conditions I’m keeping them in, any show results.
I update these notes form time to time, including observations on the fish and
their status in my fishroom. This helps me track my successes (and failures)
more accurately." She keeps track of incubating annual eggs by using a card
file, with a 3x5 card for each bag of peat; the cards are then sorted and stored
by the date due for wetting.
"I use a
Microsoft Excel spreadsheet," says Lee Harper, "to keep track of
breeding species, eggs in water, eggs in peat, fry, etc.... [B]ut what you do is
less important than how diligent you are about keeping the records. The best
breeders I know use paper, i.e., a log book." If you put the information
all down when you get the fish, then update the records as you breed or sell
them, it doesn’t matter what medium you use. "The secret is in writing it
down immediately and completely."
What Information Should You Keep?
Most aquarists
agree that at the very least you should document:
1.
Species/location/collection information (before the label gets wet)
2. Date
received
3.
Information on the source (or sources)
Then, if you like, you can add:
4.
Maintenance conditions (water, plants, food, etc.)
5. Breeding
data (basic data for BAP, breeding techniques, etc.)
6. A record
of eggs collected and dates
7. Hatching
and rearing information
8. Sales or
trades, to whom, what and when
9. Show results
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2002