---   The Fishroom Library Archives ---

General Articles on Fishkeeping, with an Emphasis on Killifish (2001-2005)

An archived collection of articles, tips, and information about tropical fishkeeping in general, and killi-keeping in particular, from past issues of the G.C.K.A. Newsletter.  To read an article, please click on the title (in blue).

All material is copyright © G.C.K.A. or the authors, unless otherwise noted. Reproduction is permitted for non-commercial purposes only (i.e., club bulletins). We do request that you provide source credit, and send us a copy of the publication in which the article appears. Please forward to G.C.K.A., c/o Recktenwalt, 4337 Ridgepath Drive, Dayton, OH 45424.

Acclimate Your Fish - the Drip Method.
A Few of the Basics - on Collecting.
Ageing Water
Airpump vs. Blower?
Alternatives for Tank Covers
Ammonia - it's an invisible killer.
Aquarium Rashes - got a rash? It might be from your fish tanks.
Breathing Air - A Lifegiving Adaptation
Beware the Camallanus Worm! - a serious parasite
Breed Those Fish ... Nature's in Ever Shorter Supply
Buying fish - Wild caught, or domestically bred? Which is better ...
Camallanus Alert!
The Case for Dirty Water - some additional observations.
Cheap Filters - In the produce section? Build your own filters.
Chloramine
Cleaning the Freshwater Aquarium - (almost) seven steps to success.
Cleaning Planted Tanks
Color Variation in Killifish - It's Nothing New. Some of the "sports."
Designer Killies
Filter Floss ... a good addition to your fishroom.
The "Filth Factor" in Killifish Tanks - your tanks need not always be pristine.
Fish Have Personality? Yep ...
Freshwater Shrimps - other "critters" for our tanks.
Garlic for fish
How to Stop Fry Predation
Hunting Strategy - who says fish aren't smart?
Hydra Revisited - what to do about a problem we've probably all had.
A Quick Course in Inheritance - it's in the genes.
Judging Killifish (1).
Judging Killifish (2)
Just How Big is that Aquarium?
Keeping Records - some of the basic information, by Donna M. Recktenwalt. 
Killifish in Mosquito Control - various efforts.
Killie Ponds - Summer Vacation for you and your fish!
Killifish - You can do it!
Lighting for Killifish
Livebearer Killies? 
Low Cost Filter Floss
Malay Snails - love 'em or hate 'em. Another method for getting rid of 'em.
A Few Myths ... About Killifish
Odors in Your Fishroom? - some possible sources.
Overrun by Snails? Try This ... - some additional techniques.
Peat and Carbon as Water Treatments
How One Aquarist Uses Rainwater in tanks.
Pro-nun-see-a-shun - a general guide to those hard-to-pronounce names.
Really Cleaning Gravel - when you want to kill everything!
Rotating Fish Out of Tanks - tips from a fellow killikeeper.
Shipping Killifish Eggs - a few observations
Should You Use Plastic Plants? - the pros and cons.
Some Influences on Fish Color
Strange Bedfellows - BIV and FAL
A Summer Vacation - for your fish? 
Survivor: Killifish Edition
The Swim Bladder - more than you probably wanted to know.
Things We Forgot to Tell You - a collection of things you might need to know.
A Tip Regarding Filters  - plagued by "squashed" fish? One solution.
Too Many Fish? - the necessity of culling.
A Treatment for Leeches
Traveling Killies ... - they do get around from tank to tank.
Traveling Fish? --Hitchhikers, Visitors, or Water Changes?
I Like Undergravel Filters - one aquarist's methods.
Weighing the Impact of Genetically manipulated fish - the Glofish (R)
What to Expect at a Fish Show - a primer for those who've never attended.
Where to Begin - Your First Tank
You Know You're Married to a Fishkeeper When ... (humor)

        Most killikeepers agree that the least stressful way to acclimate new fish to your water conditions is through the drip method, where new water is added very slowly to a container over a long period.
        The incoming fish, in their shipping water, are placed in a container sufficient to hold the volume of additional water desired. The container is then covered to prevent fish from jumping and a slow drip into the container is begun. Local conditioned water, or water from the tank the fish will occupy, is added until 3-4 times the volume of water in the shipping bag has been reached.
        Some aquarists set up their drip using a plastic cup with a hole punched in the bottom, set directly over a hole in the corner of the receiving container.
        Others prefer to siphon water from one container to another, using a piece of airline tubing with a knot tied in it to control water flow (tighten the knot to slow the drip).
        "I run a strand of yarn through airline tubing," says Jay-Scott Moylan. "Then I wet it by sucking some water through. This will work as a very low speed siphon by wicking water." This technique is useful for adapting new fish to equalize tds., etc. "I also use this sometimes for water changes if I have really small fry … and don’t want to disturb them too much."
        Because this technique works by capillary action, there is no suction at all in the tube.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 2001                    Return to top of page.

        You, too, can collect your own fish.
        In the continental U.S., all that collecting usually requires is a willingness to wade out there and get wet, some old clothes and a pair of old sneakers, a state fishing license, and a few basic pieces of equipment.

Legalities
        In many states, you will need only a current fishing license to collect fish. For the most part you will be taking "bait fish," but check the local Fish and Game laws and prepare accordingly. If you’re collecting in another state, plan to get a short-term non-resident fishing license. It is possible to get a scientific collecting permit, but that is usually difficult, requiring official affiliation with an educational or governmental organization.
        If you’re collecting in tidal/marine waters, often the only limitation is net size. You’re probably safe with nets less than 4x40 ft., if you’re not selling your catch. In many states there are protected/endangered species that you can only collect with federal permits, and the penalties for possession are severe.

What do you Need?
        Nets, usually a seine net and a dip net;

        Your equipment will vary, depending on whether you are collecting and transporting locally, by car, or whether part of your trip will be by plane.

Nets
         "Take along a one-handed seine, or a bigger one if you’ll have someone to help," recommends Bob Goldstein. "Get the longest handled dip net you can find." Alternatively, rig an extension handle to the net you have, with the screw-together segments used for painting poles. These can be taken apart and stowed in a suitcase. Mesh size is usually 1/4 inch, but 1/8 inch is even better.
        Seine nets are usually rectangular, 4 feet high, and vary in length. With poles added at the ends, smaller seine nets can often be operated by one person; larger ones usually require two people. "Seine nets are surprisingly cheap, around $20.00 for a 4 ft x 20 ft. net with lead weight along one edge and Styrofoam floats along the other," says Bruce Stallsmith. This type of net gives you a "top and bottom" effect.
        Dip nets are long handled nets similar to those for home aquaria. They’re especially useful in plant-filled waters, or for getting in under plant growth on the banks.
        Once you’ve caught your fish, you’ll need to sort, store, and transport them. A bucket or large transparent jar can be used for temporary storage. Sort your catch directly from the net, placing potential keepers in the bucket. Later, sort, bag, and mark for transport. You can take them home in whatever is convenient: plastic or glass jars, empty milk jugs, or plastic bags, all stored inside a Styrofoam cooler for thermal protection.

Record Keeping
        In the enthusiasm of collecting, essential details can easily be lost. Take time to record data about each location and the type of habitat involved. Be sure to properly mark all containers so you can correctly identify and document your specimens once you’re home.
        A small notebook works well, with a number assigned for each site, and each specimen container marked with the same number. Site information should include a brief description of the location, the habitat (pond meadow, open spring, shaded forest stream, etc.), plus the habitat type where you collected (open spring, shallow running creek, weed filled shallows, etc.) Additional useful information includes water temperature, water parameters, and notations about the type of plants and other animals found, etc.
        Once you’re home you can finish up the positive identification and documentation of your catch.
        So go to it – get wet, and have fun!
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September/October, 2002                    Return to top of page

Ageing Water
Thanks to David Sanchez and Charles Harrison, on theKillitalk Mailling List.

        Aged water is water in which fish have been living, or water in which fish may live. Aged water is water which has been adjusted for temperature, pH, chlorine, hardness, tonic strength, and other physical and chemical conditions to make it liveable," says Charles Harrison.
        Many aquarists think that ageing water for our fish is a thing of the past, or simply a matter of bubbling air through a bucket overnight. With the addition of chlorine and chloramine to many water supplies, we now need to add a chemical chlorine/chloramine neutralizer, and often must run the water thorugh a carbon filter as well, to make tap water suitable for changing aquarium water. When discussing ageing water, "many of us assume that authors … are just talking about removing chlorine," David Sanchez says. "They are not!"
        Older literature talks about ageing water for breeding by allowing it to sit in peat or allowing rainwater to age. Older aquarists, especially the Germans, allowed rainwater to filter over carbon, then to sit for as much as months in peat. The resulting water was used to breed Tetras.
        Killies are easy to breed. Because of that, "we may have a hard time understanding why anyone would age water," David points out. "However, keep in mind that tetras are rather difficult to breed, and such fish require much special attention – especially to the water. There has to be a proper balance of ions and trace elements for a successful breeding episode to occur.
        "I happen to have a collection of ‘old’ literature," David continues. One such book, dating from the 1950s, is Breeding Aquarium Fish from Datz, translated into English. "It is a joy to see how these pioneers went about breeding their fish. What efforts they would go to. Raising cyclops, going to forest streams to find the right water, etc. For breeding neons they would age the water for at least a month."
        We may have it simpler today, but we still need to think carefully about how we properly age the water we use, to most benefit our fish. Consider your water handling process: are you doing what is necessary to provide the best water to meet the needs of your fish? 
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2002                    Return to top of page

        You’re designing, or updating, your fishroom air handling system, but you’re not quite certain what type of system to consider.
        Allen Johnson, in an e-mail on the Killitalk mail list on February 25, 2001, addressed this very question. Perhaps some of his observations can aid in your decision making.
        "I have approximately 50 aquaria supplied by a central air system," Allen wrote. "I have used both compressors and my present blower." Both supplied adequate amounts of air, and purchase and operational costs are about the same.

Advantages of a Compressor
        1. A compressor can supply air to a storage tank, which can be bled off as needed.
        2. The higher pressure obtainable from a compressor is capable of moving air to deeper aquaria.

Advantages of a Blower
        1. A blower is significantly quieter. The only real noise is the bubbling of the filters and water movement.
        2. A blower is very low maintenance.

Disadvantages of a Compressor
        1. A compressor generates much more noise, which may be objectionable (especially if located close to living areas).
        2. Many compressors require changing diaphrams when they wear out (perhaps every couple of years or so).
        3. Compressors generate waste heat. This can be either an advantage or a disadvantage, depending on fishroom conditions.

Disadvantages of a Blower
        1. High back pressure may shorten vane life. If you need to move air to deep tanks you may have to replace the vanes in a few years.
        2. Blowers generate very little waste heat.
        "For me," says Allen, "the blower is the better choice.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, month                     Return to top of page

        A number of materials will make effective covers for your tanks at considerably less expense than the glass covers available from suppliers. Aquarists have experimented with various materials, and have found several that meet the fishkeepers needs quite well.
        "I’ve been using 1/2" fluorescent light grids on some of my larger tanks," says Donna Recktenwalt. "It’s quite effective at keeping the fish in; it works well to feed and replace water through, and allows light through as well." She has a 10-gal. light hood fixture sitting atop the grid over a 20 gal. tank. "The gridding does allow for quite a bit of evaporation, but that may not be a problem for some."
        John Alegre has another suggestion. "Purchase Styrene light fixture material." This comes in 4x8 ft. sheets, in both clear and opaque forms, and is usually available in the lighting section of home supply stores, right near the fluorescent grids. It will bow and fall into a tank," John says, "but if you cut a piece the same size as the 1/2" grid material you can epoxy the Styrene over the top of the grid material and have the best of both worlds." A modification he has found useful is to use the opaque Styrene over the grid near the back of the tank, then cut a second piece for the front and epoxy a marble or old bottle cap to the middle of it for a handle. This allows for easy feeding and water changes. "Once constructed, these things last for years," he says.
        If you have (or buy) a glass cutter, you can make your own tops, advises George Davis. A good source of used glass is old storm windows. Take them apart and use the glass for tanks, tops, and "collection pieces" atop worm cultures. Glass won’t warp, and you can affix a "handle" on it.
        Glass cutting is actually pretty easy, advises Bill Shenefelt.

• First, get a glass cutter.
• Use a towel or thin throw rug beneath the sheet of glass.
• Make a T-square with two wooden yardsticks perpendicularly glued together (make a "T"). Place the T-square on the glass, with the top of the "T" along the outer edge.
• Thoroughly clean the glass along the scribe line.
• Wet the cutter in turpentine (or spit,) and make a smooth draw (about 1 ft. per second) down the length of the cut. Don’t forget to account for the offset of the cutter wheel! The glass should "sing," not "crackle."
• Don’t try to break the glass along the cut.
• Don’t repeat the cut.
• Place the ball end of the cutter beneath one end of the cut, then press down on the glass on both sides of the scribe line, right at the ball. The cut will "run" down the length of the cut.

        For those not so handy, John Wubbolt says that he goes to his local hardware store and has plate glass cut to fit his tanks. For 2.5 or 5 gal. tanks the cost is about a dollar each; for 10 gal. tanks a couple of bucks. "All you need is some emery paper to take the sharper edges off the sides, which are left after the glass is cut. Another potential source is a local frame shop. "Check what kind of glass cutter they use," advises Nick Ternes. "Many use a computer calibrated cutter that cuts very straight."
        If in doubt of the quality you may get, you can take along a sample tank cover, and impress on the cutters the importance of the glass being cut square, and fitting the tank properly.
        "I’ve tried the Styrene and the acrylic stuff and have found it to be too flimsy and flexible to suit me," says George Caruso. "I have used the plastic grid material found in craft shops" with a plastic channel as a frame around the edges to keep the grid stiff enough. Plastic channel is sold at hardware stores for use with plastic or acrylic window material. He cuts it to length, then cuts the ends at a 45 degree angle. Once in place, he uses a hot glue gun to connect the pieces. "The drawback is that it does not slow evaporation," he says, and is only suitable for fairly small tanks.
        "I use glass and plastic covers," says Lee Harper. Acrylic (Plexiglas and Lucite) warps due to expansion on the humid side. Polystyrene works fine, and I have used the diffusion panels sold for light fixtures."
-- GCKA Newsletter, July 2003                    Return to top of page

        We can’t avoid it – ammonia. It’s one of the most common causes of unexplained deaths in the aquarium. It occurs in fish waste and is produced in the decomposition of plants, fish, and uneaten food. The nitrogen cycle helps convert ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate, which can be taken up by plants, but sometimes that isn’t enough.
        With regular monitoring, ammonia should never pose a threat to your fish. To prevent its buildup, the fishkeeper can utilize appropriate plants, perform frequent water changes, use efficient chemical and biological filtration, and maintain low stocking levels.
        However, all of this may be of little use if you don’t know what your ammonia levels are. The simplest way to measure it is with a test kit. These come in several types: liquids, which are mixed with a sample of aquarium water; powders and tablets, which must be dissolved in the water sample; and sample strips, which are simply dipped into the water. All tests are then compared against color samples to determine the amount of ammonia present.
        Once you have determined your ammonia level, you need to determine the best course to adjust it, if necessary. The first (and most obvious) step is to do a partial water change. This will immediately reduce the ammonia levels.
        If you have a heavily stocked tank, move the fish into a larger tank, or divide them among several tanks.
        If you’re using no plants, try adding some. For killikeepers the plant of choice is probably Java Moss, which grows under most light conditions and is well known for its water filtering qualities. For brighter light conditions, Najas Grass, Hornwort, or Watersprite may work well.
        Cut back on feeding your fish. Overfeeding is one of the most common causes for tank problems. Feeding less, or feeding the same amount less soften, may improve conditions.
        Given appropriate conditions and good care, most aquariums will be a pleasure to the fishkeeper.
Reference: Brodie, Colin G., B.Sc. Hons. "Ammonia: How to track an Invisible Killer."
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter - November 2003                    Return to top of page

        In many tropical waters the oxygen content is too low to support aquatic life that rely on their gills. A number of species have developed an auxiliary breathing organ that allows them to survive in oxygen deficient waters by enabling them to extract atmospheric oxygen from the air. This supplemental supply is vital to the fishes’ well being.
        Most aquarists are familiar with the armored Corydoras and Callichthys catfishes, which make regular and rapid dashes to the surface to gulp in air. Certain species will die, even if living in well oxygenated water, if denied direct access to air.
        The operation of the auxiliary breathing organ varies among species. Lungfish take in air through their lungs, or through a lunglike air bladder. Fish of the genus Clarius have a sacklike enlargement of the gill cavities that contain vascular surfaces increasing gill efficiency.
         Erythrinus and Gymnarchus species have a vascularized inner surface of the air bladder which can absorb oxygen from swallowed air.
        In the Labyrinth fishes, the additional breathing organ is located in the gill cavities, which are extended forward, behind and above, into the skull. A passage runs from the mouth through the first and second gill arches. Swallowed air goes directly into the labyrinth cavity, which is lined with blood vessels, thus absorbing oxygen directly into the bloodstream.
Reference: Lewis, Dr. Peter Anthony. "Fishy Trivia," Freshwater and Marine Aquarium, June 1988, p. 15.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February-March 2003                    Return to top of page

        Got a rash on your arms or hands? Been working in your aquarium recently?
        Rashes and scratches are not uncommon among aquarists. We get them from the edges of hoods and frames, from the sharp edges on glass covers, and from rough-edged rocks used as décor, especially when we have been working with our hands and arms deep inside a tank.
        Ordinary frame abrasion can be further irritated by the mineral encrustations left by splashing water and breaking bubbles from filters and airstones. Add to that the accumulation of gunk along the rim – algae, bacteria, decaying fish food – and you have a ripe area of irritation that can trigger allergic reactions in some people. These are usually fairly minor in nature and can be easily treated with antibiotic or anti-itch salves as required.
        But there are sometimes more serious effects. In freshwater tanks, Mycobacterium fortuitum can result in swelling and reddened, raised lumps in humans, usually on the hands and fingers, which are cooler than the more muscular arms. These infections can be difficult to treat, even with antibiotics prescribed by a doctor.
        Irritations and/or infections may also occur where an aquarist received an injury from a fish spine, or partway up the arm, from rubbing against the aquarium frame.
        If symptoms persist, see a doctor, and be sure to mention that you keep fish and have been cleaning aquaria. If you’re particularly sensitive, you may want to use long rubber gloves when working in your tanks.

Reference: Wickham, Mike. "If you have an aquarium – and a rash – welcome to the hobby," Freshwater Q&A," Aquarium Fish Magazine, March 2004, p. 10.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter - July 2005                    Return to top of page

        One of the less glamorous facts of tropical fish keeping is the occasional occurrence of parasites. Most killikeepers manage to keep white spot (Ich) and Velvet (Oondinium) under fairly good control, but occasionally, we’re faced with the dreaded Camallanus worm.
        Until recently, the only cure for this pest (which is noticeably visible only when fine red "threads" begin to protrude from the anus of affected fish), was euthanasia of the fish and complete sterilization of the tank. More recently, a treatment has been found, as reported in a recent article by Charles Harrison. Since the larval forms of this parasite can spread rapidly through a fishroom, early (and thorough) treatment is recommended.
        Members of the nematode family, Camallanus worms are intestinal parasites that use a row of hook-like structures to attach to the inside of the intestine, and feed on the fishes’ blood. Close inspection of infected fish reveals a swollen, irritated vent area. The larval forms of the worm use common copepods as intermediate hosts, and the infestation is easily transmitted from tank to tank.
        Early signs of the problem may go unnoticed, and include minor swelling of the belly and lack of appetite. Later, twisted spines are not uncommon. Eventually, the anus and reproductive organs become so inflamed that secondary infection kills the fish.
        Levacide (levamisole hydrochloride), a cattle wormer, has proven effective against Camallanus worms. Charles has levamisole hydrochloride available in 5 gram packets. Dissolve in 3 oz. of water to make a 5% solution; 2 ml of this will treat 2 gallons of tank water. A 5 gm packet is enough to treat 100 gals. of tank water. Use is straightforward: dose the tank, then 24 hours later do a complete water change, vacuuming the gravel to remove any remaining larvae.
        "It’s hard to overdose with this chemical," says Charles. "The fish in our study showed no side effects at all. Close examination of the tank water showed no effect on … other tank flora." Close observation of treated fish is recommended, since full impact of secondary infections may not become visible immediately.
Reference: Harrison, Charles H. "Treatment for Camallanus." http://www.aka.org, affiliate clubs, St. Louis K. A.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2003                    Return to top of page

        Those in the killifish hobby are well aware that many species are becoming steadily more endangered in the wild. Recent information underscores the importance of maintaining the species we do have.
        Roger Langton, recently appointed Emergency Survival Program Coordinator (ESP) for the AKA’s Killifish Conservation Committee (KCC), notes that the following are currently on the "Red List, and need immediate attention by hobbyists and breeders."

Aphyosemion elberti N’tui – has disappeared due to habitat destruction. This may turn out to be a separate species once the A. elberti populations are studied more thoroughly.
Cyprinodon alvarezi, El Potosi, Mexico – Extinct in the wild. Status in the hobby presently unknown.
Epiplatys chaperi schreiberi – Presumed extinct due to habitat destruction.
Fundulopanchax oeseri – Now extinct in the wild, although it is still in the hobby (AKA and DKG).
Fundulopanchax walkeri GH2/74 Kutunze – Extinct in Ghana due to habitat destruction.
Simpsonichthys marginatus – Extinct in nature due to habitat destruction. Under special efforts to breed and distribute this species.

        If you currently have any of the above species in your fishroom, please continue your efforts to breed them. Roger also asks that you contact him (303) 673-0673 or e-mail RWLACN@aol.com.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2002                    Return to top of page

Buying fish –
Wild caught, or domestically bred?

        When purchasing fish, we all know that we should look for strong, healthy stock, from a good source. Fair price factors into the decision, but more importantly, for many killikeepers, is acquiring a particular species.
        But should you purchase domestically bred fish, or wild-caught ones?
        Domestically bred fish tend to be more readily available, and are often (but not always) lower in price. Their distinct advantage is that they have been raised in aquaria, thus are used to the types of water conditions and food regimens encountered, and are fairly used to be handled and having people moving around nearby. They are usually healthy and free of disease or parasites. They may, however, have lost some of their species vigor and genetic variability from extended generations in aquarists’ tanks, and (if the aquarist has bred his fish selectively) be somewhat different in appearance from their wild cousins.
        Wild fish usually have broader genetic variability and are truer to type, but they have their own pitfalls.
        "Buying wild fish is a high stakes gamble," says Tony Terceira. "There are many times when the fish survive, acclimate and produce plenty of eggs. There are other times when the fish … produce no viable F1…. I have brought in fish and lost hundreds of them with 24 hours, or over a week or two. There are many variables to consider," when they were collected, how long they were held before shipping, when they were last fed.
        "Wild-caught fish are far more likely to expire for unexplained reasons," says Wright Huntley. "Breeding them can be from several times to 50 times harder than for tank-born fish… Wild fish go through many shocks that may, or may not, shorten their lives… [and] most have no resistance to common aquatic pathogens" that farm or tank-raised fish have developed immunities to. "Take some extra care [with wild fish], or count on low production."
        "There is an excitement in trying to produce F1 from wild parents that is sometimes worth the risk. I warn all the people who purchase wild fish from me that there are risks involved," Tony continues. When buying wild fish, "It is probably better to buy more of a few species," Tony says, "than a few of many species since you have to expect losses."
        "There is no easy answer," Tony concludes. "Perhaps think of [buying wild fish] as going to a Casino. Never spend more money than you can afford to do without."
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2003                    Return to top of page

        For those who may not be familiar with this parasite, Camallanus (aka "bristle-butt") is a parasitic nematode that is most often discovered at the late stages of infection, when the parasites protrude from the anus of the fish, looking like small red bristles (hence the "bristle-butt" description). Subclinically infested fish may show no obvious symptoms beyond a general lack of vigor and breeding success, although anecdotal evidence indicates that a subclinical infestation can cause bent spines in juveniles and young adults. Many fish may often carry the parasite without showing any obvious signs of infestation, beyond the general unthriftiness.
        Although Camallanus requires an intermediate host in order to reproduce, this doesn’t help most of us since the copepods it requires (such as Cyclops) are often already resident in our tanks. Once present in a fishroom, the parasite spreads readily via contaminated equipment and water.
        Even though they show no obvious signs of infestation, subclinically infested fish still spread the parasite, making its identification and eradication difficult. Probably the best approach is to treat all tanks and equipment when an infestation is suspected.
        Treatment is usually relatively straightforward using Levamisole hydrocholoride, a wormer approved for veterinary use.

• First, remove obviously infested fish and destroy them if possible.
• Second, bleach all nets, hoses, siphons, etc. with a dilute bleach solution (read the label on your bottle of bleach to find the correct proportions).
• Third, treat every tank and body of water with a vermifuge at the appropriate dose.
• Fourth, contact the buyers and sellers of your fish and let them know about the problem and how to treat it.
• Fifth, watch your tanks closely. Repeat treatment if necessary.
• Finally, remember to practice thorough quarantine procedures to prevent any future outbreak.

        For more detailed information on the Camallanus parasite and using Levamisole in its treatment, see the Saint Louis Area Killifish Association website, http://inkmkr.com/Fish/Camellanus Treatment.pdf. 
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 2004                    Return to top of page

The case for dirty water …
Some Additional Observations
Thanks to Wright Huntley

        We’ve all read and heard about it – one of the keys to having healthy fish is regular partial water changes.
        In the January 1999 issue of the GCKA Newsletter, we printed "A Case for Dirty Water," an article addressing the benefits of "benign neglect" and its positive effect on the health and reproductive activities of some fish species.
        We may need to rethink that advice.
        "Trouble with water changes has exploded in recent years," Wright Huntley said in a post to the KillieTalk E-mail List, "as chloramine has become mandated in many water systems. Doing smaller and less frequent changes has become particularly popular with breeders."
        In the Betta community, it is common practice to do frequent 100% water changes, particularly for jarred single males. Chlorine is deadly to fish, so good breeders religiously used some form of dechlorinator. When their local water companies switched to chloramine, the result was total fishroom wipeouts. Hardest hit were the big breeders who did the most regular water changes. Those who changed water less had fewer losses, but more sick fish and fewer spawnings.
        "One of the nastier side effects …of chloramines is partial sterilization of fish exposed to sub-lethal (and unmeasurable) levels of ammonium/ammonia." Treating chloramine-treated water with the same products used for chlorine-treated water neutralizes the chlorine, but doesn’t affect the chloramine, so water changes may in fact cause a reduction in eggs and fry. In some cases, unrecognized chloramine may stop egg production altogether.
        "I’m sure there are other problems introduced by water changes," Wright continued. Ammonium/ammonia is highly dependent on pH, which may make the symptoms of chloramine variable and sporadic. Add tds changes, temperature changes, etc., and more variability may ensue.
        One of the ways to avoid problems with large, frequent water changes is the use of carbon filtration to condition water. However, carbon filters must be monitored carefully, since carbon selectively grabs various compounds until it becomes saturated, after which it will allow "punch through" contamination of one or more undesirable compounds. If a new toxic ingredient is added to the water, and the carbon has already become saturated with a similar compound, it may either allow the new toxin to pass through, or it may dump some of the similar toxin already held, resulting in a toxic spike in the water. Such an occurrence can be deadly. At best, it will retard or halt breeding. 
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2005                    Return to top of page

Cheap Filters …
In the produce section?
By Donna Recktenwalt

        Looking for a way to set up filtration for a new tank (or a bunch of tanks) for very little money? Here’s an idea that has been used successfully by a number of aquarists.
        Rather than spending a lot of money to purchase the number of foam filters or plastic box filters you need, why not look to the produce section of your local grocery store? Instead of throwing them away, why not put those covered, clear plastic, slot-sided containers that are used for strawberries, blueberries, etc. to another use?

1. A clear plastic slotted container with lid.
2. Something heavy, to keep the container on the bottom of the tank – a few pebbles, marbles, or some coarse aquarium gravel.
3.  Some aquarium charcoal (optional).*
4. Filter medium.
        a) a handful of "polyester fiberfill" (used for stuffing pillows) from your local fabric store, or
        b) some open cell foam. Best is that recycled from an old filter. If using foam from another source, be certain it hasn’t been chemically treated – some foams contain mildew preventatives, etc., which can harm your fish.
        c) a couple of handsful of lava rock (from your local garden store).*
5. An empty fine-mesh plastic bag, such as those used for onions; or an old pair of pantyhose or stockings.

Assemble the Filter:
        1. Thoroughly wash all components in hot water.
        2. Place a shallow layer of something heavy (marbles, pebbles, gravel, etc.) on the bottom of the container.
        3. Stitch (or knot) one end of the mesh or hosiery to create a flattened pouch. Fill pouch with aquarium charcoal, then stitch or knot the other end. Place on top of the gravel/rock.
        4. Top with a wad of fiberfill, a piece of clean, open-cell foam cut to fit, or the lava rock.
        5. Insert an airline into the filter assembly, feeding it through one of the slots on the top or side, and positioning it near the bottom of the filter package. Add an airstone if you like, but this isn’t essential.
        6. Connect the airline and adjust flow as required.

        Be sure to run the new filter in an established tank for a while, or "seed" the new tank/filter to assure establishment of a good bacterial colony.
        Like others, these filters require regular maintenance. Remove the media (foam or fiberfill) occasionally and rinse out sludge; rinse or replace charcoal; and rinse any excess "gunk" from the gravel or lava rock. Then reassemble and return to use. That’s all there is to it!
* Note: Both aquarium charcoal and Lava rock are very light and often tend to float. Lava Rock is also porous and sharp-edged. You’ll need to wash and wet them thoroughly and confine them for use.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2005                    Return to top of page

        We all know that Chlorine and Chloramine can prove deadly to our fish. Those whose water does not come from municipal supplies rarely need to worry about chlorine and chloramine. Those of us who get our tap water from a public supply need to know how to counter the dangers posed by these chemicals.
        Removal of chlorine from your municipal tap water is easy. Just use a good water conditioning agent, or let the water "sit" for a day or two, and most of the chlorine present in the water will dissipate.
        Removing chloramine from water to be used in aquaria is another matter entirely. A highly stable organic compound formed when ammonia combines with chlorine, chloramine will not dissipate naturally. Since many municipalities now add chloramine to public water supplies in an effort to make the water we drink safer and more pure, water for aquaria must be treated with a conditioner designed specifically for its removal. Products such as Stress-Coat, Chlorine and Chloramine Neutralizer, etc. work well.
        If you’re not certain whether your water contains chlorine or chloramine, you can contact your local municipal water supplier for the information, or you can simply play it safe and always use a combination product for aging your aquarium water.
        It may be a bit of bother to use such neutralizing products and to let your water age, but your fish will thank you for your thoughtfulness.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter - October 2003                    Return to top of page

        There are many pitfalls in cleaning aquaria. We’ve all heard horror stories about those who cleaned a fishtank so well (even down to using bleach to disinfect all part of the tank and décor) that all the fish died.
        Bernard Harrigan suggests the following steps to help prevent succumbing to these pitfalls.

1. ASSESS YOUR TANK
        Before you start cleaning your tank, see what needs to be done. Check out the fish. Are there any missing? Do they appear clean and disease free? Are fins torn, ripped or tattered? If you have catfish, are their barbels ok? Are the plants clean and healthy? Is equipment clean and operating properly? Is the water murky, yellowish, or full of suspended matter? Is the hood or cover water-spotted or encrusted? If the fish are in trouble, you need to determine the reason. The number one cause of fish illness is stress. Start by testing the water. In most cases, a good tank cleaning/ water change will solve the problem.

2. CLEAN OFF EXCESS ALGAE
        It’s almost impossible to remove all the algae from a tank, and you don’t really want to. Algae aids in ammonia removal, partially masks equipment and tubing, and some fish love to eat it.
        Using your implement of choice (an algae pad, an old credit card, a one-sided razor blade), clean the inside front and end panels of the tank. Using your fingers or a soft cloth, gently wipe off the algae on plant leaves, removing any leaves that are heavily overgrown. Clean off the heater tube, the filter tubes and the hood. Clean excess algae off rocks and decorations.
        If your tank is overrun with algae, reduce the hours of light it receives, either by leaving the lights on for a shorter time period (10 hours is a good maximum), or if the tank is near a window, by moving the tank or shading it.
        If you overfeed your fish, the rotting excess food contributes to algae growth. Cut back on the amount of food you give your fish and add plants that will compete with the algae for any available nutrients. Floating plants will compete for light, too. You could also add a known algae-eater, such as a Bristlenose Pleco or Ancistrus catfish.

3. VACUUM THE GRAVEL AND DO A WATER CHANGE
        Vacuuming the gravel and removing debris-laden water are done at the same time. If you remove debris but leave the old water, it can trigger an unwanted (and dangerous) ammonia spike. Before you start, unplug the filter and heater. Move decorations and rocks out of the way. Work carefully around the plants; you don’t want to harm them or disturb their root systems. Trim off any dead or dying leaves.
        As you clean the gravel, dig into the substrate as far as you can. Make sure the water is draining properly – if you have sufficient flow, the gravel at the intake end of the vacuum tube will be swirling vigorously before dropping back out. Clean only half the tank at one time; more could trigger an ammonia spike. When you’re through cleaning, add any new plants and return the decorations to their places before refilling the tank.

4. CLEAN THE FILTER SYSTEM
        Every filter is different, but three basic types of filtration are currently in use.
         Mechanical filtration removes solid waste by running the water through a coarse sponge, filter floss, etc. Whenever you do water changes, rinse out the filter material in aquarium water to remove excess debris.
         Chemical filtration adjusts the water chemically, without the benefit of bacteria. Carbon is most commonly used, but resins, pumice, marble chips, even peat moss, may also be used. Be sure to replace the filter medium regularly, especially carbon, which will eventually leach back into the aquarium the toxins it has trapped. In a tank with carbon in the filtration system, yellow water is a clear indicator that the carbon needs changing. Note that if your tank contains driftwood, or if you use peat or blackwater extracts, the water will also be tinted.
         Biological filtration utilizes helpful bacteria to break down ammonia. Whether the filter media is ceramic "noodles," bio-balls, sponge, etc., it should be rinsed of extra debris whenever you do a water change.

5. REBUILD AND RESET-UP
        Use aged tap water to refill the tank. Chlorine will dissipate naturally when water ages, but if your water contains chloramines (a combination of chlorine and ammonia), you’ll need to use a commercial dechlorinating agent. You may also want to add a tonic such as Stress-Coat, which helps protect the fishes’ slime coat. Make certain that new water is in the same pH and temperature ranges as that in the tank.
        Restart the filter, heater, and any other equipment, checking to make certain they are operating properly.

6. CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE TANK
        Start from the top. Clean the hood and light, inside and out, removing spots and encrustations. Clean the outsides and front of the tank. Never spray any type of cleaner directly on any part of the tank! If you use a glass cleaner, spray on a soft cloth or paper towel, then use that to clean the glass.
        That’s it! Done monthly, this procedure should keep your tank looking good and your fish in good health. You accepted the responsibility for taking care of these living creatures; how long and how well they live is directly related to the care you give them.
        [Step 7 not given in The Reflector-Ed.]
Reference: Harrigan, Bernard. "Seven Steps to Cleaning Your Freshwater Aquarium." Originally published in Modern Aquarium, newsletter of the Greater City Aquarium Society, November 2003. Reprinted in part in The Reflector, newsletter of the Central New York Aquarium Society, May 2004, Vol. 27, No. 9.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter - July 2005                    Return to top of page

Color Variation in Killifish – It’s Nothing New

        Most of us have grown used to seeing killifish that are "normal" – red-tailed Nothobranchius patrizzi, Aphyosemion sjoestedti with orange tails, brown-bodied Cynolebias whitei. But we are also no longer surprised by fish that are somewhat different from the norm for their species – Aphyosemion australe in red and gold forms, as well as the original brown; Nothobranchius guentheri in a variety of forms – xanthic (lacking black pigment), blushing or blue (lacking red pigment); Fundulopanchax gardneri in "gold" and "albino" forms; Aplochileus lineatus in gold.
        Most such color "sports" are discouraged by killie fanciers, who tend to prefer the original "wild" forms. However, other color variations do occur among killifish. Many of them are well documented, or reported by reputable observers, although few have been maintained in the hobby. These include:

• A piebald sport of Aphyosemion geryi Abuka.
• Cynolebias whitei Albino, which supposedly occurred among stocks being bred to supply the "instant fish" market of the ‘60s (killie eggs in peat; add water, instant fish).
• A strain of albino yellow F. gardneri.   

        Albinism is one of the more common "sports" that can occur in our tanks. According to James Langhammer, long director of the Belle Isle Aquarium (Detroit), an albino occurs about once in every thousand fish. Since albinism can occur for several reasons, some albinos are stronger than others and the strain proves more robust.
        Other variations occur occasionally too: unusual numbers of black spots on the body, variations in caudal and fin coloration, or changes in the shapes or sizes of fins. Just look at the wide variety of color and pattern variations available among the guppies, swordtails and platies. All those variations were developed by breeders working from "sports" that occurred in their tanks.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2001                    Return to top of page

        We all know that vacuuming the gravel in tanks is an important maintenance task, as important as regular water changes. But what to do if the tank is heavily planted, or if the gravel may contain eggs, or baby fish that you wish to save?
        "I don’t think there’s a way to gravel vac without getting some eggs and fry," says Cathy Carney. "I run the wastewater into a bucket, then visually check for fry, using a flashlight. I usually don’t check for eggs unless I really want more of the fish, just net out the fry if I see any." Alternatively she dumps the wastewater through a fine meshed net, then searches the gunk for eggs.
        "When I have babies in a tank I often use my gravel vac with a panty hose leg stretched over the large opening," says Dennis Heltzel. He then siphons with lower pressure than usual, keeping the outflow end higher than usual to slow the flow, and watches for fry that get caught. "This doesn’t remove much debris," he points out, "but is very effective for a water change…. I focus on water changes and leave the detritus until the fry are older and can avoid the siphon more effectively."
        "Make a smaller version of the gravel vac," suggests Steve Halbasch. "I use empty plastic film canisters (clear is preferred, but black works) and 1/4" or less ID tubing. Cut or drill a hole in the bottom of the film canister the same diameter as the OD of the tubing. Place the tubing through the hole and you’re done." Because this version is smaller, the suction power is less, and being smaller, you can easily move it around plants and other objects in the tank.
        "One way to ‘clean’ a tank with eggs or fry is to just leave the ‘gunk’ (or some of it) in place," says Donna Recktenwalt. "Baby fish often hide in the debris, and there are lots of microorganisms in the mulm that the fry can feed on." As for protecting the fry, just put a fine mesh net beneath the outlet end of the siphon, then when you are done, rinse the net out in the fry tank to release any fry that were caught. Most will come through the experience just fine, as long as the water flow isn’t too strong.
        If the fry containers are fairly small, scooping the water out with a clean plastic cup and pouring the water through a net to capture any stray fry may work for you.
        Eggs can be recovered from tank debris by swirling the outlet water in small batches in a clear container. The eggs, being heavier, will sink more quickly than the detritus, and can then be collected with a net or siphon. This takes some time, but if you really want or need the eggs, may be a way to harvest gravel for eggs that might otherwise be lost.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September 2003                    Return to top of page

        We’re familiar with many of the numerous "designer" fish available to the aquarium hobby – fancy goldfish, guppies in their numerous color designs and finnages, balloon mollies, veiltail angelfish, the many color forms of discus, "painted" glassfish–and more recently, the genetically enhanced Glofishã , a modified form of the Zebrafish, or Zebra Danio (Rerio danio).
        Among killifish breeders the intent is to maintain species as closely as possible to their original, wild forms. Although occasional sports do occur, on the whole killifish fanciers breed for the betterment of the species, not for the commercial trade.
        For some time now, commercial fish breeders in Singapore have been producing the gold form of Aplocheilus lineatus (the Golden Wonder) and Jordanella floridae (the American Flagfish) for the hobbyist trade. Recently, they have developed a Short-bodied Flag Fish. This may be good for the breeders, and perhaps for the aquarium hobby as a whole, but what if some of these specialty forms or genetically modified fish or their offspring get into habitats that suit them, or into their natural waters?
        Probably, say the experts, not much.
        The chance of a domestically bred fancy form of a species getting back into the species’ natural habitat and successfully reproducing is doubtful at best. In nature, those individuals that are different, that stand out, that cannot move as quickly, etc. soon become prey, leaving few if any offspring behind. Even if such a fish did survive and reproduce, the enhanced features would soon disappear into the gene pool, just as dogs allowed to breed indiscriminately revert in several generations to the base type.
        So perhaps we really don’t need to worry about Short-bodied Flag Fish or GloFishã at all. And perhaps, now that major breeders have succeeded in breeding a fancy variety of one killifish species, they’ll try breeding some of the other attractive ones for the commercial market, thus exposing more would-be aquarists to the advantages and beauty these fish have to offer.
        And that thought isn’t all that bad.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, July 2005                    Return to top of page

A Few Things That I’ll Bet You Didn’t Know You Needed …

        Every aquarist knows that there are basics you must have in order to successfully keep fish.
        Water.
        Water conditioner, to neutralize chlorine and chloramine.
        A container. Usually – but not necessarily – an aquarium.
         Gravel and plants (both optional, depending on the type of aquarium and the fish), and, of course, fish.
        A cover is useful, to reduce evaporation, and to keep the fish inside the aquarium and potential predators (and children’s fingers) outside.
        You’ll need a net to catch your fish, and fish food.
        Most tanks have a light, for plant growth and to better view the fish. Many people add a timer, to automatically turn the lights on and off.
        A filter keeps the water moving and traps debris and waste materials, keeping the water clearer. Depending on the filter system you choose, you may need an air pump, airline tubing, and gang or connection valves.
        A thermometer is often useful, and a heater will help to maintain the temperature.
        That pretty much covers the essentials, but there are a few other items that many fishkeepers find useful.
        A bucket, for those required water changes. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy. Any watertight plastic bucket with a capacity of 1-5 gallons (depending on how much weight you can carry) will do just fine. Just be sure to wash it out thoroughly before you use it the first time.
        A test kit is a good thing to have on hand, to monitor water quality and check for causes when problems crop up.
        A siphon hose is helpful when doing water changes. This is simply a length of 1/2" or larger tubing, cut to a convenient length. Fill it with water, block both ends with your fingers or thumbs, then insert one end in the aquarium to be drained, and the other end into the waste container, located at a lower level. Remove your thumbs and the water will flow. You can add a gravel vacuum at the intake end. This is simply a wide length of plastic tubing that can be pushed into the gravel. The swirling action of the water in this section lifts and removes debris; the heavier gravel drops back into the tank.
        You may need a scraper for keeping the inside glass clean. You can purchase an algae pad for this purpose, or you can use a single edged razor blade or one of your expired credit cards.
        One of the most useful items around aquaria may be a turkey baster. Use it to fill the siphon tube when doing water changes, to feed live or thawed brine shrimp or worms (add water to make a thick liquid or thin slurry), or to move baby fish (assuming you can catch them). In a big tank you may have to net fry first, then remove them using the siphon or a plastic cup. Tiny fry are delicate, and will do much better if moved in water than if lifted out of the tank with a net.
        Aquarium salt is a good general tonic to have on hand. To dole it out, keep a measuring spoon handy.
        Chlorine Bleach is always useful. Borrow some from the laundry area and dilute it with water to disinfect aquarium equipment. Be certain to rinse items thoroughly and completely air dry before use; bleach residues can kill fish.
        Undoubtedly as you get more involved in the aquarium hobby you’ll find even more items that you find useful around the fishroom – eyedroppers, miscellaneous jars and plastic containers, air line clips, airstones (diffusers), a marker pen – the list goes on.
        Next time you’re around other fishkeepers, ask them what items they wouldn’t do without!
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2003                    Return to top of page

        A useful material that many killikeepers never consider for use in the fishroom is filter floss. If you’re an old-timer, you remember the fiberglass floss that we used to use in filters, and how difficult it was to handle. You probably even remember getting bits of the material into your hands and fingers, where it itched and acted like splinters until eventually working its way out.
        We’ve come a long way since then. However, filter floss is still with us, but in a different, much more user friendly form. We’re talking about polyester fiberfill, the material used to fill pillows, easily available in most craft, yarn, or fabric stores for a minimal price.
        It’s cheap, versatile, wonderful stuff!
        "Floss has endless fishroom uses," points out Wright Huntley. "Plugging bottles of cultures, filling box filters, wiping algae off glass are only a start.
        "Whether in the form of bats that can be cut to size, or just torn-off wads from the kind sold for stuffing pillows, I think folks don’t realize what a terrific spawning medium polyester fiber can be," says Wright.
        European breeders have long maintained numerous "extinct" species of pupfish (which are illegal to keep in the U.S.), using a wad of poly fiber on the tank bottom as the preferred spawning medium. The slightly amber eggs are easy to see in the white floss.
        Wright says that he also rolls a sheet of coarse plastic canvas (1mm+ holes) into a cylinder, stuffs it with floss and caps the ends with PVC pipe cap. "This makes a superb spawning trap for Lampeyes [and other fish] … that like to spawn in crevices. Placed in a current from a power head, the eggs are out of reach and don’t get eaten, but do get lots of oxygen."
        An additional use is to lay thin (1/4-1/2") layer of poly over the filter plate in an undergravel filter. Topped with fairly fine sand, filter floss produces an unusually effective biofilter without clogging the filter plate.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2003                        Return to top of page

        Every killikeeper has his/her own idea of what constitutes a good killifish tank. From "squeaky clean" as practiced by some of our European hobbyists, to "filthy," we all have our own individual methods and preferences as to how clean a tank should be.
        The fish don’t usually care, as long as their basic needs are met – good food, sufficiently clean water, enough room, and suitable cover – plants, mops decorations, etc.
        According to the "Komarak Filth Factor Index," a tongue-in-cheek measure of tank cleanliness vs. the resulting quality of the fish, the more attention and cleaning efforts expended by the fishkeeper, the greater the decrease in quality of the resulting fish.
        This may be a humorous explanation of why some killikeepers do well with tanks that are less than pristine, but it does point out a basic truth: the fewer objects or items you have in a tank, the more effort it takes to keep the tank functional. A bare tank with only a filter requires more effort to keep clean. Sludge, mulm, and decaying food must be removed from the bottom, and water changes must be conducted regularly. Bacteria growths on the tank walls and bacteria blooms in the water may occur more often.
        Making a tank hospitable to the fish by adding a substrate (usually gravel) and some plants goes a long way toward making the fish comfortable, and thus productive. Gravel provides surfaces for beneficial bacteria, which aid in maintaining water quality, and provides a "bottom," making the fish feel more secure. Plants provide cover and hiding places for the fish; utilize nutrients from the water, thus aiding in keeping good water quality; and maintain microfauna on their surfaces which provide food for fry. This biological action, aided by the benefits of mechanical filtration using a foam or undergravel filter, goes a long way toward keeping the tank stable and in good condition for longer periods of time.
        For most killikeepers, plants of choice include the Cryptocorenes, the Aponogetons, Anubias, Java Moss and Java Fern, all of which are fairly hardy and enjoy the lower lighting levels preferred by those keeping killifish. For environments with higher light levels, Najas Grass and Hygrophilia are often used.  
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 2004                    Return to top of page

        Sometimes we encounter a fish that has an unusually aggressive personality, one that runs counter to the usual behavior for its species.
        "I remember a local female A. schioetzi – back in the 70s when they were called christyi," says Scott Davis, in a message on the Killietalk mail list. "Males of the strain popular then tended to really drive their females ... [so] they were at a premium. Ron Coleman reluctantly gave me his extra female with the warning that she had annilhilated his male. She was fairly husky … [but] I figured no problem, I’ll put her in with two males. After I had disposed of the dead males I gave her, with cautions, to someone else, whose males proceeded to get beaten up."
        Personality changes have long been seen in spawning cichlids and other fish, but spawning behavior may not be the only reason for compatibility/incompatibility issues.
        Most fish are "better behaved" when well fed and given plenty of room, lots of hiding places, with excellent quality water at the lower end of their temperature range.
        The presence of females can have a direct effect on behavior. Males that will get along fairly peacefully in a single sex tank will often begin to spar (and perhaps actively do battle) if females are introduced.
        Males may unexpectedly decide to set up a favorite spawning spot and defend it against all comers.
        Fish raised together as fry tend to get along better than fish that are mixed together when they are older.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2003                    Return to top of page

Some of the "other critters"
Freshwater Shrimp

        We may keep aquaria primarily for the beauty and fascination of the fish and plants, but we all know that there are any number of other living creatures that share their aquatic habitat, both in captivity and in nature.
        Some we couldn’t do very well without – the beneficial bacteria that form the foundation for the biological filtration cycle, for example. Some are nearly always present. Even in the best-kept aquaria you’ll often find Oodinium spores, tiny flatworms, and some type of snails.
        Some creatures sneak in when we aren’t looking closely enough – hydra, predatory insect larvae, leeches.
        Although few fishkeepers are willing to provide them precious tank space or run the risk of losing valued fish or fry to possible predation, there are also a number of other creatures that will live quite happily in aquaria – clawed frogs, newts, large decorative snails, crayfish, and freshwater shrimp.
        Aquarists are probably most familiar with the Brine Shrimp, Artemia salina. These have long been a mainstay food for tropical fishes, in both their adult and larval forms.
        There are also a number of freshwater shrimps that can make interesting aquarium inhabitants, either alone or in the company of fishes. The following aer all fairly small, moderately active, and feed solely on decaying plant matter, thus posing no danger to fish. In actual fact, the fish may endanger the shrimp, considering small enough specimens as a potential snack.
        Many aquarists are already familiar with Gammarus, or Ghost Shrimp. These little fellows, slightly larger than adult brine shrimp, are often fed to fish. They will live happily with small peaceful species of fish, feeding on debris and swimming vigorously around their environment.
        One aquarist has found that a Ghost Shrimp can be a valuable ally when incubating killifish eggs. Lok Kwek Leong places Aphyosemion australe (AUS) eggs, which he has found to be subject to fungus, on stands of Java Moss to incubate, then adds a Ghost Shrimp to the container. The shrimp "clean" the eggs, picking them up and eating the tiny particles attached to them, but not harming the eggs. The accumulating shrimp droppings on the bottom of the container seem to cause no problem, and more eggs incubate successfully for him with this system.
        We discuss Glass Shrimp and Grass Shrimp (both Palaemonetes sp,; pictured above) together, since they are similar in size, habits, and availability, and are often confused, both by dealers and by aquarists. These little shrimps are avid scavengers that busily search the substrate and plants for food. They have fairly small pincers so pose no danger to small fish, and may even be cultivated by the aquarist. Keep them in groups, in either shrimp-only or community tanks containing nonaggressive species. They prefer a pH of 6.8-7.4, with water temperatures of 74ºF and above. Be sure to provide plenty of plants and hiding places, since stress can lead to illness.
        Commercially, these shrimps are raised in fairly large numbers, with the males and females kept together. Egg-laden females are removed weekly and placed temporarily in fine mesh baskets in a grow-out tank. After their larvae have hatched, they are returned to the main tank. Larvae are fed on algae and rotifers at first, then baby brine shrimp and flake food.
Resources: Lok Kwek Leong. "How I incubate Lyretails’ eggs." http:www.killie.com/Incubating2.
Purser, Philip A. "Spineless Wonders." Aquarium Fish Magazine, December 2001, pp. 18-27
Rosenqvist, Mark. "Grass Shrimp Culture." Freshwater and Marine Aquarium, August 1993.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September 2005                        Return to top of page

        The healing properties of garlic are well known in humans, but use it for fish? Recent studies seem to indicate that it can be beneficial.
         Fishkeepers around the world have been experimenting with garlic as an addition to fish food. It has been shown to eradicate intestinal worms in Discus, to stimulate immune systems, and to reduce or eliminate whitespot and velvet. Experiments with Ecosystem’s Garlic Elixir, when mixed with flake food and used on Rasbora myrnae and R. maculata (both delicate species) reduced the infestation of whitespot in three days, and cleared it in a week.
         Anecdotal reports indicate that garlic can also be effective on marine fish. It may prove beneficial for Koi and Goldfish, and is beneficial when added to the treatment regimen for fish being treated for other diseases.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2003                    Return to top of page

        Gary Elson reports that at one point he had too many Pterolebias longipinis, so put some in with a group of Apistogramma cacatuoides.
        Everyone got along fine, until the Apistos spawned.
        "The female (never male) Pteros would drift at the surface in a four point, nose in position until they were motionless above the cichlid fry.
        "Then they would drop, one at a time, into the gaggle of cichlid fry, grabbing a fry and drawing the mother’s attack as their sisters dropped from other angles.
        "It was a wolfpack hunting strategy – coordinated and deadly. The timing of the attacks was perfect."
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter – April 2001                        Return to top of page

        No matter how careful, from time to time every aquarist is visited by the pest known as hydra.
        Although unsightly, hydra seem to do little harm in tanks with grown fish. In fry tanks, however, they can be a real problem, because they not only compete with fry, but also will eat fry.
        Freshwater hydra are fairly small, seldom reaching 1/4 inch long, with a long, slender base and threadlike arms that extend and retract. They occur in various colors–white, gray, green, or brown, depending on the species and on the symbiotic algae they contain. They also vary in their number of tentacles and budding sites for vegetative reproduction. Hydra feed on microscopic or very small live foods, including baby brine shrimp, daphnia, and the occasional small fish. Reproduction is both sexual (eggs/embryos) and asexual (budding).
        Hydra are easily introduced to or spread among tanks. They can be transferred on anything that has been in an infested tank: nets, plants, filters, thermometers, suction cups, air lines, live foods, even, possibly, fish. Hydra cysts are highly resistant to adverse environmental conditions.
        Fortunately, there are a number of possible control agents for hydra, both natural and chemical. The following are a few of the potential control measures.

"Natural" Control Measures
        Heat will kill hydra, but the high temperatures required (100°F for 1 to 2 hours) forces removal of fish and plants, and "won’t ensure against recolonization from resting eggs," according to Brian Skidmore.
        Predatory Fish include various gouramis (especially Trichogaster tricopterus), the livebearers Limia perugiae, and Heterandria formosa (the Least Killifish), fish of the Botia and Betta species, and some of the dwarf cichlids. South American Ramshorn Snails have been reported to eat hydra. "Three or four of them about dime size will rid a 10 gallon tank in a week, and completely clean up the tank in three weeks," says Charles Harrison, although others have reported less satisfactory results.
        Salt is easily available in the fishroom, and many killikeepers routinely add it to their conditioned water as a general tonic. However, for hydra control salt levels may become toxic to fish and/or plants. "Salt for 7 days a 3.0 ppt works well if your fish are not salt sensitive," says Rick Haeffner of the Denver Zoo.

Chemical Means of Control
        Alum sulfate is commonly used to put the crunch in pickles, but according to Roger Sieloff, a 10% solution will kill snails and hydra without killing plants (if they aren’t exposed to it for more than a half hour or so). "Think of it as ‘sheep dip,’" says Roger. "Take the fish out of the tank first … unless you like pickled herring."
        Ammonium Nitrate may not be practical for many fishkeepers, since it is a chemical/fertilizer that is usually available at local feed stores in 50 lb. bags. However, Brian Skidmore reports that "at a dosage of 1/4 tsp. of granules per 10 gal of water (half this dosage for sensitive fish–start at the lower dosage if you’re not sure), this treatment was effective if repeated in one week after a 30% water change. Caution, overdosing will kill your fish."
        Aquarisol is good against hydra if you double the recommended dose of 12 drops to 10 gallons of water. "The 24 drops to 10 gallons hasn’t hurt my Java moss or fish in the several years I’ve used it," reports Ross Cronkhite. The hydra "will close up within an hour; 24 hours later if they haven’t fallen off the tank I dose again and they totally disappear." After that, Ross runs a charcoal filter for 24 hours.
        Bausman’s Fish Tonic is readily available at aquarium supply stores and is easy to use, at a recommended dosage of 1 tsp. per gallon. "I started using Bausman’s Tonic and since then, I have not seen one hydra," reports William Wasserman. "I guess it works!" The "tonic" is actually recommended as a general additive in small doses. "This stuff was fantastic," enthuses Harry Kuhman. "No problems at all with any fish and it dealt with hydra every time I ever had a problem. Instructions said it would take 3 days to clear the tank of hydra and it did exactly that." Retreatment is sometimes required to destroy newly hatched hydra which were resting on the tank bottom.
        Bleach is readily available in any supermarket. "It works great, but you have to take down the entire tank and start over for it to be successful," says Brian Skidmore.
        Clout, a commercial product, has also been recommended as a hydra treatment. However, Brian Skidmore reports that "using this medication, I over-treated, killing some of my fish." Copper Sulfate. Most invertebrates and some killifish are extremely sensitive to copper compounds, particularly Nothobranchius and Cynolebias. "I’m a great fan of copper sulphate," says Andrew Broome. "It’s a pretty blue color and it kills things, dead." He used a dilute copper sulphate solution (very pale blue color) on a tank that was more hydra than fish, and kept adding it until the snails were dead. "Then I added a bit more, left it for 24 hours, and did a 100% water change." The fish were transferred back; the plants survived without any problems, and no more hydra were seen.
        "You could [also] use a commercial copper mixture designed for curing oodinium infections, or add a couple of copper pennies (not the newer zinc-clad ones) to a 10 gallon tank," says David Keller.
        Freshwater Copper Safe (by Mardel) is supposedly safe for fish, but not so for all snails and plants. It will kill hydra.
        Cure by Aquarium Products is a combination of Formaldehyde and Malachite Green. "One drop per gallon, followed by another treatment daily until the hydra are gone is safe, in my hands," advises Harry Specht.
        Fluke Tabs will "kill hydra without hurting the fish or the plants," reports John Wubbolt.
        Formaldehyde is by far the most highly recommended chemical treatment for hydra. The best treatment is 37% drug-store formaldehyde, administered at the rate of about 3-5 drops per 5 gallons every other day for at least three or four doses. Formaldehyde usually works without harm to either fish or plants and is absorbed quickly by plant debris, mops, filter floss, etc., so no carbon filtering is needed to remove it. It only lasts for about two days in the tank before breaking down or being absorbed. "The first treatment cases the hydra to close up for a while, but then to respread," says Wright Huntley. "The second and third treatments are needed to be lethal, and maybe even one more time."
        "Hydra killing is safe and easy," says Charles Harrison. "Three drops of 37% formaldehyde solution per gallon will kill off even the heaviest infestation without bothering either the fish or the plants." His method?
                1) Change the tank water, all of it.
                2) Add 3 drops of 37% formaldehyde solution per gallon.
                3) The next day or the second day, change the tank water again.
                4) Watch the tank after brine shrimp feeding and repeat procedure if needed.

        Heavily planted tanks or tanks with undergravel filters may take three treatments to be successful. Overdosing (more than 5 drops per gallon) should be avoided."
        "Two drops per gallon of 37% formaldehyde is safe for fish and is used by many public aquariums as standard quarantine protocol," according to Rick Haeffner of the Denver Zoo.
        Quick Cure (Aquarium Products). A simple treatment available to anyone within reach of an aquarium store. "This is a combination of formaldehyde and malachite green. One drop per gallon, followed by another treatment daily until the hydra are gone." This treatment "is safe in my hands, and saves all the trouble and expense of acquiring a bottle of 37% formalin and needing only a few drops for the treatment," says Harry Specht.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2001.                    Return to top of page

         Not too long ago, a question was asked on the Killietalk Mailing List about inheritance of the factor for blue tails in Nothobranchius guentheri.
        "It is probable that the blue tail color is due to a mutation in a protein that makes the typical red pigmentation in the tail," Eric Lund replied. "A male with two copies of this mutated gene would fail to produce the red tail pigmentation, thereby unmasking an underlying blue tail color....
        "The bluetailed mutation is recessive, which means that if you continue to line breed you will get only males with blue tails. If you cross a blue tailed male to a female of the normal aquarium strain you should get only males with red tails in the next generation (F1), but the following generation of offspring would be 25% blue tailed."
        In clarification, genetically each parent contributes a single set of genes to their offspring, resulting in two sets of genes in the young. Designating "R" as the normal (dominant) gene for red tail, and "r" as the recessive gene for non-red tail (blue), the following results:
                1. If you breed a blue tailed male ("rr") to an aquarium strain female ("RR"), their offspring will all be "Rr" (red tailed, carrying the blue recessive factor).
                2. If you then breed the resulting fry ("Rr"), brother to sister, you will get 25% "RR" (pure red tail), 50% "Rr" (red tail, blue recessive), and 25% "rr" (pure blue tail).

        "The trick to fixing these sorts of strains," says Eric Lund, "is to remember that the females carry the genes too, but they do not show what their phenotype is. If I had a killie strain with a recessive trait that popped up fairly frequently and I wanted a true breeding strain from it, I would do the following:
                1. Isolate each female separately in a spawning tank.
                2. Breed each female only to males showing the recessive trait.
                3. Collect and label the spawns from each female separately.
                4. Raise the offspring from each female in separate, labeled containers.
        If the trait you’re selecting for is from a single recessive gene and the mutation is common enough that you had at least one homozygous recessive female ("rr"), her male offspring should all be the same. Fish from containers where all the males show the trait will breed true.
        If all the tanks have only males of the normal phenotype, then you didn’t have any homozygous recessive females as breeders. This is because the gene is quite rare and you didn’t have enough females.
        If tanks of offspring from separately bred females have males with both phenotypes, then the trait you are selecting for is not due to a single recessive mutation, and other tactics are required to produce a strain that will breed true.

-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2001                    Return to top of page

        You may have wondered, when attending a killifish show, just how one pair of fish is selected a winner over perhaps dozens of others in its class, and just who actually judges these fish and determines which are better?
        "Judges," says Charlie Nunziata, past Chairman of the AKA Judging Committee, "are highly experienced killie hobbyists" who have expressed an interest in becoming judges, who have been certified by the Judging Committee, and "who have examined ... thousands of pairs of killies." They are encouraged to read everything available on killifish in order to keep current, and to study killifish whenever they have the opportunity.
        Specimens are judged with respect to the characteristics of their kind. Many species have significant characteristics that are well known, such as the tri-lobed caudal of the Blue Gularis, or the fin extensions on Aphyosemion australe. A judge will look for those characteristics. "The ideal [specimen] … is the one that best expresses the size, shape, color and behavior expected."
        Strong, healthy, well matched, damage-free and vibrant specimens will score high, regardless of variations in color pattern. Both the male and the female of the pair must be healthy and compatible, leading to the assumption that given the chance, they will breed.
        The experience of the judge is paramount. The AKA Judging Program attempts to guide judges by providing a well designed pointing system, which requires judges to focus on specific characteristics, then total the points awarded for each. The often subtle deficiencies on a given fish will determine its ultimate point score.
        Of the 100 available points that can be awarded to a pair of fish, 11 relate to color and pattern, 40 to condition and compatibility, 21 to body size, shape and condition, and 28 to non-color related fin features.
        The Judging Program consists of four documents: a Judging Standard; Judging Certification; a New Judge’s Guide; and an Annual convention class list of species. The judging process and accreditation of new judges are maintained and implemented by the AKA Judging Committee.
        There is no formal training program for new judges, but potential judges are regularly certified by the Judging Committee. Those who wish to become judges may either judge a class (or classes) at a sanctioned show and have their scores compared to the actual judging scores; or they may take a judging test from a certification slide set prepared by the Judging Committee.
        For those who would like further information about becoming accredited as a judge, contact the American Killifish Association at www.aka.org. 
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 2002.                        Return to top of page

        Basically, judging is common sense, says Charlie Nunziata, an accredited AKA judge. "The goal of the AKA is propagation of killifish.... The central theme of the judging system is that the candidate should be representative of the species." Thus if the fish are representative of their species, are healthy, and the pair is compatible with a high probability of breeding, they will score well.
        "The point system is designed to reward such a candidate," Charlie says, "and thereby encourage the entry of good breeding stock that represents the species."
        In addition, "representative of the species is exactly what it says." Candidates should have proper fin and body shape, color pattern, and attitude expected for the species. Males are awarded a total of 55 points; females 35, and 10 points more are allotted for pair characteristics. So the female should be the proper size in respect to the male, and of equal quality.
        "What will always score high is the vibrant, ‘brimming with health’ ... pair," Charlie adds.
        "We’re not looking for the biggest fish," adds accredited judge Dave Price. "Some people seem to think that the biggest, or brightest, fish should always be the winner. Because the judging guidelines stress the overall breeding potential and compatibility of a pair, this isn’t always the case. A younger, stronger, better matched pair of fish will often win over an older, bigger pair simply because they have more breeding potential or the partners are more evenly matched."
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2003                    Return to top of page

        To calculate the capacity of any size of rectangular aquarium, multiply the length times the width times the depth (in inches), then divide by 231. That will give you the capacity in gallons.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2003                        Return to top of page

Keeping Records
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

        In some manner, all of us need to keep at least some records.
        At the very least we need to document what fish we have, and which eggs and fry belong to which species. The precise form of these records may vary. It may mean simply marking the tanks, or it may involve maintenance of a master computer record. Most aquarists (and their needs) fall somewhere in between these two extremes.
        At the very least you should document the species name, the collection code and the strain information, and where and when you got the fish. Additional information may include spawning and hatching dates, sales information (what you sold, when, and to whom), and maintenance and breeding information (water conditions, breeding procedures, foods, tank sizes, etc.)
        How to keep it all straight?
        The answer varies, but generally falls into two separate tasks: identifying the individual tanks, fish bags and batches of eggs and fry, and documenting acquisitions and dispersals. The first involves marking or labeling, the second keeping some sort of log or diary.

Marking the Tanks, Bags, etc.
        "In my chemistry and biology labs," says George R. Trumbull, "we always used grease pencils. ... [They are] good for marking tanks as to species etc. and can be removed with acetone or nail polish remover. Non-toxic and no fumes."
        "If I get fish in labeled bags, I peel off or cut out the label and attach it to the new tank," says Wright Huntley. Later, "I print [computer] labels with the basic name, collection code, etc. on regular Avery mailing-label stock. I leave as much white space as practical. Each tank gets a label, with a pencil note of source/date, etc." He then uses copies of the labels on hatching containers, bags of peat, storage bags, tanks, etc., "and always for sale or club auction. Most importantly, the labels always have my name, phone number and e-mail address, so whoever buys [my fish] has a way to reach me."
        If the ink on the labels isn’t waterproof, you’ll need to tape over the label to prevent smearing.
        Magic Marker on Scotch "Magic" tape is another solution, Wright adds.
        If you aren’t using adhesive labels, marking bags is another matter. Most aquarists use fine-tipped "Sharpie" markers, which are clear and don’t smear when wet. However, there may be some transference of chemistry into the bag. "Sharpie" markers, points out Lee Harper, "smell like isopropyl alcohol.... I will write on an outer bag, but not on one containing the fish."
        Broad-tipped markers may add toluene to the water in the bags. Test a bag before using it by filling with air and tying off, then writing all over with the marker. Let it set for a while. Open the bag and smell the air. If it has an odor, don’t use that marker on a bag for fish or eggs.

General Documentation
        Long-term documentation may include 3x5 cards, diaries, loose-leaf notebooks, or computer spreadsheets.
        "I’ve always just kept a diary where I write down the events that happen daily," says Doug Karpa-Wilson. "Some of these factors change daily (temperature, pH, appearance of diseases or breeding behaviors), while others change weekly or never (diet, plants)" etc. However, since all information is in chronological order, it may be difficult to search for specific information.
        A different approach is documentation by species. "I maintain a loose-leaf notebook," says Donna Recktenwalt, "with a page for each species. Basic information goes there – where I got the fish, how many, how much I paid, what kind of tank conditions I’m keeping them in, any show results. I update these notes form time to time, including observations on the fish and their status in my fishroom. This helps me track my successes (and failures) more accurately." She keeps track of incubating annual eggs by using a card file, with a 3x5 card for each bag of peat; the cards are then sorted and stored by the date due for wetting.
        "I use a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet," says Lee Harper, "to keep track of breeding species, eggs in water, eggs in peat, fry, etc.... [B]ut what you do is less important than how diligent you are about keeping the records. The best breeders I know use paper, i.e., a log book." If you put the information all down when you get the fish, then update the records as you breed or sell them, it doesn’t matter what medium you use. "The secret is in writing it down immediately and completely."

What Information Should You Keep?
        Most aquarists agree that at the very least you should document:
            1. Species/location/collection information (before the label gets wet)
            2. Date received
            3. Information on the source (or sources)

    Then, if you like, you can add:
            4. Maintenance conditions (water, plants, food, etc.)
            5. Breeding data (basic data for BAP, breeding techniques, etc.)
            6. A record of eggs collected and dates
            7. Hatching and rearing information
            8. Sales or trades, to whom, what and when
            9. Show results
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2002