General Articles on Fishkeeping, with an Emphasis on Killifish (1996-2000)
An archived collection of articles, tips, and information about tropical fishkeeping in general, and killi-keeping in particular, from past issues of the G.C.K.A. Newsletter. To read an article, please click on the title (in blue).
All material is copyright © G.C.K.A. or the authors, unless otherwise noted. Reproduction is permitted for non-commercial purposes only (i.e., club bulletins). We do request that you provide source credit, and send us a copy of the publication in which the article appears. Please forward to G.C.K.A., c/o Recktenwalt, 4337 Ridgepath Drive, Dayton, OH 45424.
The Abbreviations - what
are those three letter codes, anyway?
Acclimatizing Your
Fish - What's the Best Way? A few techniques.
A Case for Dirty Water - sometimes less
water changes are better.
A Few Views on Killies and Ponds.
Alternate Aquaria - aquarists aren't limited
simply to glass, acrylic, or plastic containers.
Among the Problems - Velvet. Some
ideas on how to handle this scourge of killikeepers.
Another Viewpoint on Natural Setups
Another Water Source - Dehumidifiers?
A Primer on Peat Moss - types of peat moss and their uses in aquaria.
A Rose is a Rose .. or Must We Use Those Latin Names?
- a clarification of nomenclature.
Back to Basics - The Beginning Killikeeper.
Beginner? Advanced? Expert Aquarist? Where Do You Fall?
Burnout! - how to avoid that "overwhelmed"
feeling.
Carbonate Hardness - another factor to
consider in your water supply.
Cleaning Aquaria - for those times you want to
get things really
clean.
Cleaning Old Tanks - a few tips for those
really dirty old aquaria.
Collecting in Florida - what to plan for,
what to expect, what you might collect.
Collecting in Florida - the Fish
- some of the fish you might find.
Collection Codes - A Primer - an
overview of those strange letter/number suffixes to names.
Color and Intensity in Killifish ... a discussion
- some of the factors that affect color.
Conditioning Water
Crossbreeding Experiments with Epiplatys sexfasciatus
- abstract.
Ecology ... of Orinoco basin annual killifish - abstract.
Feeding Habits Studied - the interaction
of four fish species studied.
A few good starter fish - some
recommendations from those who have been there.
A Few Tips on Raising Fry -
observations by several experienced aquarium keepers.
A Fish Out of Water ... - rivulins and
their "amphibious" benavior.
A Genetic Study on Gold AUS
- report on scientific study of inheritance in Aphyosemion australe.
The Good, the Bad, and The Ugly
- a slightly different take on the theme.
Good Water? Good Question - what is
your local water like?
Harmful Water
How Many Are Too Many? - what is your comfort
level?
Hybrids - Intriguing, but Undesirable - ok for scientific study, but not
for general distribution.
Identification in the Field - some notes from Barry Cooper
If They Can Jump ... They Will! - why do fish jump?
Judging Killifish - what a judge looks for in
show fish.
Just for Fun ... - what the biggest, smallest,
etc. killifish?
Just How Long Do They Live?
- Killifish are short lived; or are they?
Keepin' Killies - A Primer - some
basics about keeping killifish.
Keeping Track ... - keeping track of what
species/eggs/fish you have.
Keeping Track of pH - a few ways to monitor
your water quality.
Killies and Other Companions
Lighting for Killifish - what's the best light for viewing them?
Losing New Fish? A Few Pointers
- a few tips for reducing those stress-related losses.
Mad Dash to Nowhere - fright syndrome and a
few tips on preventing it.
Make Your Own Filters - thanks to Jack
Heller.
Malaysian (Livebearing) Snails
Moving Fry - One Technique
The Nature Conservancy Buys a Mexican Oasis
Nomenclature and Killifish - why
those names are important.
Overrun by Snails? try a natural solution
Panic Attacks - A Few Strategies
- triggers and prevention techniques.
Back to Basics - Planning the Fishroom -
some things to consider.
Pond Maintenance for Spring - a
suggested checklist.
Say It! Understand It! - an overview of that Latin/Greek and what some of
it means.
Shipping Fish - An Overview
Shipping Killies - a few basic rules for
successful shipment of killifish.
Shipping Your Fish - some suggestions for
successful shipments.
Some Good Starter Killies - a few
suggestions for that first killifish.
Some Observations on Orinoco Basin Habitat
Snails and Eggs ... Good or Bad?
Snails ... Snails ... Snails -
a brief overview of the types of snails common in aquaria.
Soft Water/Hard Water - discussion of
water parameters for killifish.
Something's Fishy ... - another look at
aquatic-aquired granuloma.
Species? Subspecies? or Population?
How do we tell the difference?
"Sports" in Killikeeping
Tank Additives - Oak Leaves - another aid to conditioning water.
Tips from the Fishroom ... A few more
suggestions from killikeepers.
To Filter ... or Not to Filter -
that is the question.
Usefulness of the Slime Coat - what it is, and what it does for your fish.
Vacation Care for Fry - Revisited
- another method.
Vacation Care - What to do When You Won't Be There To Do It
- you may not have to feed them.
A Variation on Fry Boxes - one
breeder's trick for keeping fry.
Warning Signs ... - where do you fall?
Water Borne Infections - it can happen to
you.
Water Changes - Basic Fishkeeping.
Water Changes - Revisited -
why they're important.
Water Conductivity - another view of water.
Water Hardness - A Comparison - a
look at the dH, gH, fH, and US scales of hardness.
Water Values and Water Tests - an
overview.
What
Can't You Do Without? - essential items that we don't think about.
Back to Basics - What Filter Do I Need?
What Is A Fishroom? - definitions, and basic information.
In a previous article we discussed
scientific names, those tongue twisting Latin/Greek constructions that are used
to identify all described living things. However, no mention was made of the
three letter abbreviations, such as AUS, GAR, etc., that occasionally show up in
reference to various killifish.
Very simply, the three letter
abbreviations are a technical shorthand for the identification of killifish,
which facilitate accurate communication without having to spell out entire
species names.
The concept, originally developed by
Jorgen Sheel and first published in his Rivulins of the Old World (1975),
covered only the old world killifishes. Since then a number of additional
species have been identified, and the classification of some species has been
changed.
The following list is undoubtedly
incomplete and prone to error (many of the Roloffias, for example have
been recently reclassified), but it still should provide at least a handy
beginning reference for the aquarist.
A. - Aphyosemion
Aplo. - Aplochielus
C. - Cynolegias
E. - Epiplatys
F. - Fundulopanchax
N. - Nothobranchius
Riv. - Rivulus
R. - Roloffia
Code / Species Names
AHL - A. ahli
AMI - A. amieti
ANN - E. annulatus
ARN - A. arnoldi
AUS - A. australe
BAR - E. barmoiensis
BAT - A. batesii
BER - R. bertholdi
BIF - E. bifasciatus
BIV - A. bivittatum
BLO - Aplo. blockii
BUA - A. bualanum
CAL - A. calliurum
CAM - A. cameronense
CHA - E. chaperi
CHE - E. chevalieri
CHR - A. christyi
CIN - A. cinnamomeum
DAG - E. dageti
DAY - Aplo. dayi
DOM - Aplo. panchax dorsomarginatus
DUB - Aphyoplatys duboisi
ELE - A. elegans
ESE - E. esekanus
ESI - A. exiguum
FAS - E. fasciolatus
FER - A. ferranti
FIL - A. filamentosum
FLA - A. flavipinnis
FUL - A. fulgens
GAM - Fundulosoma gambiense
GAR - F. gardneri
GEO - A. georgiae
GER - R. geryi
GRA - E. grahami
GUE - N. guentheri
GUI - R. guineensis
GUL - A. gulare
HOM - Pachypanchax homalonotus
LAB - A. labarrei
LAM - E. lamottei
LIB - R. liberiensis
LIN - Aplo. lineatus
LON - E. longiventralis
LOU - A. louessense
MAE - R. maeseni
MIL - N. microlepis
MON - E. dageti monroviae
MUF - E. multifasciatus
NIC - E. nigricans
OCC - R. occidentalis
OGO - A. ogoense
ORT - N. orthonotus
PAN - A. panchax
PET - R. petersii
PLA - P. playfairi
RAC - N. rachovii
ROL - R. roloffi
SEX - E. sexfasciatus
SIN - E. singa
SIO - A. schioetzi
SJO - A. sjoestedti
SPL - A. splendidum
STR - A. striatum
TAP - N. taeniopygus
THI - Fundulosoma thierryi
TOD - R. occidentalis toddi
WAL - A. walkeri
WER - A. werneri
WHI - C. whitei
XIP - Riv. xiphidius
List of Possibly Valid Names, or Synonyms
ACU - E. acuticaudatus (SPI)
AND - Aplo. andamanicus
ANS - E. ansorgei
BAU - E. baudoni
BEA - A. beauforti
BOU - E. boulengeri (MUF)
BRI - N. brieni
CAB - R. calabaricus (LIB)
CAS - A. castaneum (SCH)
COE - A. coeruleum (SJO)
COG - A. cognatum
DEC - A. decorsei
DEF - E. grahami decemfasciatus (SPI)
DOR - E. dorsalis (FAS)
ELB - A. elberti (BUA)
FAL - A. fallax
GUS - A. gustavi (BEA)
HOL - A. bivittatum hollyi (BIV)
INF - E. infrafasciatus (SEX)
JAC - A. jacobi (EXI)
JAU - A. jaundense (EXI)
KIY - Fundulosoma kiyawense
LEO - E. sexfasciatus leonensis (FAS)
LOB - A. loboanum (EXI)
LOE - A. loennbergii (BIV)
LOL - A. loloense (EXI)
LUJ - A. lujae
MAC - E. macrostigma
MAG - A. margaretae
MAR - E. marnoi (SPI)
MAT - E. matlocki (FAS)
MAY - N. mayeri
MEI - A. meinkeni
MEL - R. melanteron
MEP - N. melanospilus
MIC - A. microstomum (CAM)
MUC - A. multicolor (BIV)
NDE - E. ndelensis (BIF)
NEU - N. neumanni
NIG - A. nigerianum (GAR)
NIM - E. nigromarginatus
NUC - Pachypanchax nuchimaculatus (HOM)
OBS - A. obscurum
OGO - A. ogoensis
OLB - E. chaperi olbrechtsi
ORN - E. ornatus
PAL - N. palmquisti
PAP - A. pappenheimi (BIV)
PAR - Aplo. parvus (BLO)
PAT - N. patrizzi
POL - A. polychromum (AUS)
RIG - A. riggenbachi (BIV)
RUF - A. rubrifascium (BUA)
RUM - Aplo. rubrostigmus (LIN)
RUR - N. rubroreticulatus
RUS - A. rubrostictum (BIV)
SAN - E. sangmelinensis
SCH - A. schoutedeni
SEN - E. senegalensis (SPI)
SEY - N. seychellensis
SIA - Aplo. panchax siamensis
SPM - E. spillmanni (SHE)
SPP - A. splendopleure (BIV)
SPU - A. spurrelli (WAL)
SRE - A. schreineri(BEA)
STE - E. steindachneri (BIF)
TAE - E. taeniatus (BIF)
TES - A. tessmanni (BUA)
TRO - N. troemneri (ORT)
UNS - A. unistrigatum (BIV)
VEX - A. vexillifer (CAL)
ZIM - A. zimmeri
-- GCKA Newsletter, November 1997
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Acclimatizing
Your Fish – What's the Best Way?
By Donna M. Recktenwalt
Sometimes the
difference between health and success with our new killifish, or illness and
swift death, lies with the way we acclimatize them to the particular conditions
in our own fishrooms.
No matter how
carefully your new killifish have been packed and handled, they will have
suffered a certain amount of stress on their trip to your tanks. This makes them
more susceptible than usual to and pathogens or parasites they may encounter,
whether from their home tanks or your own. Anything we can do to ease the
transition into their new quarters is of benefit.
How do other
killikeepers manage this?
Recently, Doug Karpa
Wilson took an informal poll on the Killietalk mailing list, asking how people
acclimated their new fish. Among the answers were the following.
"We use
silicone tubing with plastic valve to drip acclimate," replied R. Scott
Page. "If we are receiving fish through the mail we add 1 ml Amquel per bag
immediately upon receipt, otherwise we just drip acclimate. The contents of the
bag are poured into a 1 gal. plastic pitcher, which is set into a 5 gal. bucket.
The tubing is set to drip into the pitcher – slowly. If we neglect checking up
on the process the pitcher overflows into the bucket. Jumpers also end up in the
bucket this way. Usually the fish is acclimated in between 1-2 hours."
"I use a pin-hole drip of tank
water from a styrofoam cup into the container with the fish until the volume
about equals three times the original volume," says Tom Payne. "A soda
bottle with the top cut off to hold the styrofoam cup works well. This then gets
floated in the tank 10 minutes before release. I learned the technique from a
member of our club (G.C.K.A.) who raised beautiful fish with no air pumps and no
filters, just water changes."
First of all, check
all incoming fish and tend to the ones that need help immediately, advises Monty
Lehman. After conducting any emergency procedures, adjust the temperature,
either by leaving them alone for a while, or by floating the bags in water of
the appropriate temperature.
"The best
method of water acclimation that I have found," Monty continues, "is
by drip tubes (adding the fish to an empty container and adding small amounts of
your water over about a two hour period). Adjust the drip rate so you can count
a drop every 1 to 2 seconds, and continue until you have doubled or tripled the
amount of water they came in. After this you can increase the flow rate until
you have a gallon or so of water. Then just set them up in the container you
intend to keep them in."
"I'd add
another step," Joseph Ponnath says. Instead of moving the fish immediately
from the gallon container into their final quarters, "I watch them for the
next two weeks. Makes it much easier to see any problems" or provide
treatment if required. Joe, who has extremely hard water with a high pH, also
does daily water changes using water from the tank they will go into, to make
certain their water stays the same. He then nets the fish out and places them in
their new homes. "I try to have no original shipping water go into my
tanks," Joe says. "I firmly believe that water chemistry difference
will lead to all kinds of problems," so he takes steps to minimize any
shocks.
Other Tips
The bottom line, of
course, is to adjust the fish slowly and carefully from the water they have been
living in, to the water they will be living in. This reduces the potential for
physiological damage, either from trauma or from the stress and shock of being
handled and shipped, and of having to adjust to new water conditions. At the
same time, a slow, careful acclimation that dilutes the water the new fish
arrived in should also reduce the potential that an outside pathogen will be
introduced into your clean tanks.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December
2000
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We've all heard the advice that
regular partial water changes are the best way to keep our fish healthy, happy,
and (hopefully) breeding. We're encouraged by the "experts" to change
tank water regularly and often.
But are there, perhaps, times when
this advice is not wholly correct? when a certain amount of "benign
neglect" may be beneficial?
There is at least anecdotal evidence that for some species regular water changes
may not be the best of advice.
"I have [had] continued
positive experience with dirty tanks and better egg recovery," says Charles
Harrison. "Water changes every five to seven days, without disturbing the
tank setting or removing much of the debris or disturbing the mops, has often
resulted in more eggs. My cleanest, most pristine mops and tanks don't produce
nearly the number of eggs and fry as do the more mature tanks, independent of
size."
"I have kept dwarf cichlids
and know ... that when the water is changed every two weeks (30% change) this
triggers ... the fish to spawn towards the end of this period," comments
Nancy Graham.
"I, too, have found 'dirty'
tank conditions a boon to breeding fish and raising fry," observes Joe
Gardner, who uses exclusively sponge filters in all his tanks. "I look at
good mulm in the same fashion I regard good garden compost. It takes a while to
cultivate but is worth the work and wait. I have found that with various killies,
livebearers, cichlids and gobies, the fry hide in the mulm and find food
[there]. It is important to continue to make water changes, but not to disturb
the mulm very much."
"It seems I get more eggs
(consistently) out of tanks that are in need of cleaning than those that were
just cleaned," observes Will Wasserman. "Does the polluted water cause
an acceleration of egg production?"
"Bob Earls up in Creemore,
Ontario, used to start out with three or four trios [of SJO] in a 15 [gallon
tank] and feed heavily," reports Richard Sexton. "The dirtier the
water got, the more eggs he got." When the fish finally got sick, he'd
change the water. "The fish would be fine, but they'd never lay another
fertile egg. Not just the number of eggs, but the fertility was a function of
filth. The dirtier the water, the more fertile the eggs."
Ron Harlan speculated that there
might be a chemical or hormonal trigger [in dirty water] that relates to
fertility and egg production. From an evolutionary standpoint, this might make
sense, since fish that laid many fertile eggs in an evaporating (i.e., more
polluted) pond might be evolutionarily more successful simply by producing more
fry and providing a greater chance for survival of the species.
"One theory is that as the
water gets dirtier, the pH drops, making it more acidic, which could also be the
trigger the fish need to spawn," says John De Luca. "I have found that
about 30% of the species I keep won't lay well until the water is dirty. I first
discovered this by accident when ... I neglected my routine maintenance of my
adult tanks ... and noticed that some fish that I classed as difficult had mops
loaded with eggs. I have many friends who keep livebearers and they tell me that
some of these fish prefer dirty water to produce fry. Another friend who
successfully breeds discus .. has about an inch of mulm on the bottom of his
breeding tanks."
So perhaps a little debris in a
functioning biological cycle is not a bad thing. A German writer some time ago
applauded "clean dirt," a layer of mulm which he left on the tank
bottom while changing water.
"Don't clean the tanks so
often," suggests Gunnar Asblom. "Dirty water as we think is maybe not
bad for the fish. Use a filter and plants such as java moss and you don't have
to clean the tanks, just change the water sometimes, but only 10-20% each
time."
Remember, too, that courting and
spawning are variable behaviors, with any number of possible factors triggering
them. It's been well observed that some newly arrived fish go into a spawning
frenzy, while others may take a month or more to become adjusted before courting
and laying eggs. Sometimes, too, fish simply "take a vacation,"
ceasing to spawn for no particular reason and then resuming again "when
they feel like it." -
- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 1999 and March 2002 Return to top of page
A Few Views on Killies and Ponds
Potential Problems and Cautions to Consider
All is not without risk, however.
"Outdoor rearing could be a very
dangerous practice in areas where flooding and/or other natural disasters
occur," reminds Karl Johnsen. Use caution if there is a potential for your
fish to get into local waters.
Weather, too, is always a problem,
especially extremes of temperature. "Even in Florida I have lost ‘tender’
tropicals with a sudden cold snap," reports Harry Specht. "One is
always tempted to leave those nice fish [out] a bit longer than is
sensible." In addition, there are always other predators: birds, raccoons,
cats, etc. "To be on the safe side, most of us with outdoor ponds cover
them with a net or screen for protection. It doesn’t ‘look’ good,"
says Harry, but it is much safer for our fish."
Other problems that can occur:
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2000 Return to top of page
Another Viewpoint on Natural Setups
Many aquarists have found that using a "natural" killifish setup (a tank filled with plants such as Java moss, Watersprite, etc., and several pairs of fish) results in better fry production with less work, but some aquarists have taken the practice a step further.Another
Water Source –
Dehumidifiers?
By Donna M. Recktenwalt
Killikeepers know that many
killies, particularly the Aphyosemion species, prefer softer, more
acidic water. Many killikeepers collect rainwater; some have invested in Reverse
Osmosis units to assure a continuing supply of suitable water for their fish.
But might there be another answer?
The question of using water from
dehumidifiers has been addressed a number of times, both in the printed media
and on the various killifish e-mail lists. At best, the answers are mixed.
"I currently use a dehumidifier in my
basement... In theory this water is as good or better than the RO water from my
reverse osmosis system. Does anyone have actual experience using dehumidified
water in their fish tanks?" asked Jim Langam in a recent e-mail query.
"We have successfully raised Rivulus
xiphidius for two years," say Norm and Susan Stacey, "in 6 parts
dehumidifier water to 1 part tap water. We fill a funnel with charcoal and pour
the dehumidifier water through the charcoal and into a plastic container before
it’s used. We also add oak leaves to the bottom of the breeding tank. The fish
seem to be happy, and we’ve never had a problem. Note that the humidifier is
fairly new and we have only tried using its water with R. xiphidius,
since they like soft, acidy water."
In the opinion of Julian Sprung, who
writes the "Reef Notes" column for Fish and Marine Aquarium,
dehumifier water is unsuitable for aquarium use because it has been condensed on
an aluminum coil.
From Aquarium Fish Magazine,
September 1998, comes the following: "It might be possible that water
forming on the coils could pick up trace amounts of aluminum, zinc, or copper.
And, as the water condenses, it could absorb compounds from the surrounding air,
such as nicotine from cigarette smoke, compounds from household cleaning
products, and so on."
Of course, the "topoff"
water requirements of a reef tank do not pose the same requirements as water
used for water changes in a freshwater, often slightly acid tank.
If you have a dehumidifier, it might
be a safe and easy alternate water source for your killi tanks. But do some
careful testing and experimentation first. If the results look good, try some of
that dehumidifer water in a tank or two. Use care, take careful notes, and let
us know how dehumidifier water works for you.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September
1999
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Peat moss is a staple ingredient
of our hobby - as most killikeepers are well aware. But just what is peat -
other than a water treatment/ acidifier and a cushioning and antibacterial
storage media for killi eggs?
Peat is the partially decayed,
moisture absorbing plant matter found in ancient bogs and swamps. Given
sufficient geologic time and pressure, peat will eventually turn into coal.
Peat is generally available in
three forms, all usable by aquarists, and all generally available at garden
supply centers.
Fibrous peat moss
is the coarsest type available. It has broken down very little from its original
state before being collected, dried and packaged. Fibrous peat is used by
florists to camouflage the soil around potted plants. Aquarists use it as a
spawning medium for plant spawning fish.
Sphagnum peat
has decayed considerably before being harvested, and consists of a mixture of
coarser stuff mixed in with a good deal of finer, powdery material. It works
well as a spawning medium or substrate, although the fine particles can cloud
the water.
Peat pellets are
fine peat that has been compacted into a "wafer," which when wet will
expand sufficiently to support a seedling plant. One pellet can provide enough
peat for a pair of small to medium sized annual fish that prefer a finer,
mud-like spawning medium. Since peat pellets were designed for the nursery
trade, they come with or without plastic netting to help hold their shape, and
with or without added fungicides and fertilizers. Be very careful what you buy,
and read labels carefully. Jiffy brand #690 (without plastic netting) and #703
(with netting) are supposedly additive free.
Readying peat for aquatic use
consists of no more than boiling it well to drive out the air so it will sink.
After cooling, it can be rinsed to remove the finer particles. Peat pellets can
be microwaved in a cup of water (being certain to remove any plastic netting
first), then rinsed in a net before use.
The prepared peat may be used
immediately, or stored for later use.
The author squeezes out the excess
liquid and stores the peat damp in a screw-top glass jar until needed. For
larger amounts, Oleg Kiselev suggests using a 5-gallon bucket with the airlift
on a small hex undergravel filter maintaining circulation. This keeps the peat
sweet and provides a ready supply of "black water" as well.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 1996
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a-q-uar-i-um 1. a container (as a glass bowl) or an artificial pond in which living aquatic animals or plants are kept. 2: an establishment where such aquatic collections are kept or exhibited. (Webster's Seventh new Collegiate Dictionary)
Most of us still think of
aquariums as basically rectangular glass or acrylic constructions that may vary
in size from a couple of gallons to a hundred or more. But aquarists aren't
limited to containers of these accepted definitions. Many others - some
originally designed for quite different uses - can be used to hatch, raise,
maintain, and breed fish.
Plastic containers -
shoe, sweater, and storage boxes - work very well as aquaria and are growing in
popularity for everything from wetting peat to raising fry and serving as
breeding tanks. Light, strong, resilient and easy to clean and handle, they can
easily house small breeding colonies or lots of fry. To keep track of what is
where, try using small stick-on labels on the containers, or keep a diagram.
These containers are relatively inexpen-sive and are designed to stack neatly
when not in use, making for more efficient use of limited space.
Styrofoam. We
usually think of this material as shipping boxes, but styrofoam containers
(often used for shipment of foodstuffs or medications, as well as for picnic
coolers) can work well as aquaria, too. Fill with water and appropriate plants,
then cover with a screen (to keep the fish in and curious children and pets
out). Be sure to test carefully for leaks (some styrofoam is not completely
water tight), and wash well before use.
Fiberglass
tubs and boxes are sturdy, durable and easy to clean. if desired, a
"window" can be cut in one side and glass or clear plastic installed
using on the inside using silicone sealer. Plywood tanks can be a practical
alternative for those requiring larger capacities. One-half or three-quarter
inch marine plywood can be assembled with screws or screwable nails, then the
inside coated with two to three coats of marine paint or polyester resin. A
"window" can easily be added. These wooden tanks are not recommended
for plecos, which tend to eat the resin coating, then the wood beneath. Every
couple of years wooden tanks should be emptied and the surfaces checked, then
recoated if necessary.
Other Possibilities
Children's wading pools.
Inexpensive and easily available, these can serve very well for daphnia ponds
and similar uses, but are ultimately subject to breakdown from ultraviolet
light.
Plastic laundry baskets.
Lined with a layer or two of 1-2 mil plastic, these can work quite well as
aquaria. Range them along sturdy shelves or set them on the basement or patio
floor, then throw in a mass of java or sphagnum moss (the coarse kind, not
peat), and add fish. Some aquarists put a breeding pair in each container and
leave them alone, except when feeding or harvesting fry.
Watering troughs.
These steel, heavy plastic or rubber containers may cost more than some of the
other alternatives, but you get the benefits of high volume coupled with high
durability. The steel ones will dent, and eventually rust, but the plastics are
resilient, and there are no concerns about toxins or breakdown due to
ultraviolet light.
Bathtubs,
refrigerator/freezer liners and the like are sometimes available
and can be fairly easily adapted for aquatic use. Simply plug the holes with
glass and silicone sealant and add a "window" if you like. These are
durable, and highly functional.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter - November 1996
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A Rose is a Rose ... or
Must We Use Those Latin Names?
By Donna M. Recktenwalt
In a word, yes. The answer has
nothing to do with elitism, and everything to do with precision.
Newcomers to the aquatic hobby
often bewail the fact that we use latin names, but any time you move beyond the
most basic beginner level in the hobby, you will find the technical (latin)
names in use at club meetings and auctions, among dedicated hobbyists, by the
wholesalers, and by the scientific community.
Before you begin to complain that
species names are too long, too complex, and too difficult to pronounce (and
some of them are real tongue-twisters), consider this: It is an inherent
human behavior to "name" the things in our environment. If we all
spoke the same language, this would be little problem. But my "big brown
fish that lives in the shallows" might be called "toothy fish that
lives in the mud" by my neighbor across the river. Same fish, different
name. Multiply this by the number of languages and dialects in the geographic
range of any given species, then by the number of different species that may
inhabit a biotype, and you can begin to see the problem.
Carolus Linnaeus saw it too, back
in 1758, and proposed a system of binomial nomenclature that remains in
worldwide use today. By precisely identifying any discovered, described
organism, Linnaeus' taxonomic invention provided clarity to the
literate/scientific community of his day. With refinements it does so still.
The first word of the two (or
more) part scientific name indicates the genus to which an organism belongs,
based upon a group of attributes commonly shared; the second part denotes the
species, a group of individuals potentially capable of interbreeding. By using
scientific names anyonebe he a lepidopterist, a gardener, an orchid keeper, or
an aquaristknows exactly what animal or plant is being discussed, no matter the
country they are in or the language they speak.
Scientific names utilize both
Latin and Greek roots, since these languages were common to all learned men in
the western world of Linnaeus' time.
In many cases, the genus name is
descriptive. Mustela, the genus for weasels, comes from the Latin mus
and telos, meaning "a mouse like a spear."
The second name may be
descriptive; it may honor an individual by using a latinized version of a proper
name; or it may reflect the namer's sense of humor. Cynolebias nigripinnis
derives from the Greek kyon (dog) lebias (small fish), niger (black)
and pinna (fin). Numerous species are named after the Drs. Axelrod
and Jubb (axelrodi or jubbi); and more recently there has
been Agra vation, a ground beetle whimsically named by Terry Erwin of the
Smithsonian.
In printed usage, the entire
scientific name is usually shown in italics, with the first name capitalized and
the second in lower case, as in Aphyosemion australe. When more than one
reference is made to the same genus, the genus name is often abbreviated, thus A.
australe.
But an angelfish is an angelfish,
you argue; a platy is a platy, a guppy is a guppy- even though they may now come
in a wide variety of named colors and patterns. Why isn't a killifish just a
killifish?
It's a matter of genera.
All angelfish belong to the genus Pterophyllum,
either scalare or altum; only devoted breeders need worry about
the difference. Likewise platies are all Xiphophorus variatus, X. maculatus,
or hybrids of both. Guppies are all Poecilia reticulata, whatever their
color pattern or finnage.
Killikeepers and cichlid fanciers
are dealing not with varieties of a single species, but with a number of related
families (genera) of fish, each with numerous species.
To complicate the issue further,
both killi- and cichlid fanciers may also append location and collection data to
the scientific names. Thus killikeepers encounter such names as Aphyosemion
striatum Lambarene, or Nothobranchius eggersi Rufiji River Camp TAN
95/7 (Red).
Although a long name seems
confusing, the extra information exists for a reason. As Gary Elson has said,
"There's a lot in a name, even if the name seems inordinately long. ...
When I look at a killie I see beauty, but when I look at the name of a killie, I
see a little bit of the history."
In the case of N. eggersi,
mentioned above, several collections of the species were made at different sites
and at different times. Although appearing to be the same species, the fish may
or may not be closely related; only further scientific study will determine
that. The appended information codes allow breeders to maintain strains
separately until such determinations are made.
If appended information consists
of a single proper name (such as Lambarene or Ngabu), it usually refers to a
collection site or village name.
Letter and number addenda are
usually assigned by collectors in the field, and correlate with their maps and
field notes. Thus we have the code shown above: Rufiji River Camp TAN 95/7
(Red). This indicates the collection site location (Rufiji River Camp), the
country (TANzania), the year (1995), the number of the collection site (7), and
the color type of the collected fish (Red). Other collection sites resulted in N.
eggersi in the red form, a blue form, and some individuals of each.
Also included in the addenda is
color variety information, or strains bred from an original species, for example
A. australe Chocolate or Aplocheilus lineatus Gold.
Since the taxonomy of killifish is
constantly evolving, it is of great importance to retain all of the collection
and varietal information for a species. Species names, even family names, may
change over time as scientists learn more about their interrelationships. In
addition, some fish have been collected, described and named by more than one
researcher. This results in the same species having several synonymous names, a
confusion that is perpetuated by out of date publications, but clarified by
subsequent research.
A number of articles have appeared
in aquarium publications attempting to clarify the taxonomic groupings of the
killifish family, among them "Fundulopanchax: An Overview," by
Gregory J. Niedzielski and David A. Franco, and "A Fundulopanchax timeline,"
compiled by Brent D. Kelley. Both appeared in the Journal of the American
Killifish Association (JAKA), September-December 1995, and provide a
comprehensive overview of that family and how its naming has changed. Brian
Watters' compilation "The Status of Nothobranchius Species Populations in
the HobbyPast and Present" on the AKA web page (http://www.aka.org) and in
the Notho section of the Gallery provides a good perspective on the Nothos.
Numerous other articles exist in both the commercial and the scientific
literature.
There are also a number of books
available that provide excellent, if not always completely up to date,
information. Recommended are Roger Langton's Wild Collections, which
documents the recorded information about collections and explains the naming
conventions; Killi-data '96 by Jean Huber; Rivulins of the Old World, by
Gordon Scheel; Killifish Master Index by Ken Lazara; and for a more
general coverage of fish classification, William Eschmeyer's Catalog of the
Genera of Recent Fishes. Most of these volumes are available through
specialty aquatic bookstores; many are available through the AKA.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 1997
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Back to Basics …
General Maintenance
One of the advantages of killies,
of course, is that most of them are fairly small, thus don’t require large
tanks to be happy. Five- and ten-gallon tanks are common, with some species
happy in even smaller quarters.
Water?
Most species will do quite well in
well-seasoned or dechlorinated ordinary tap water. Aquarists who are raising
fussier species, or whose water is particularly hard, may use Reverse Osmosis
water or rainwater to temper their primary water source.
Plants and Lighting?
You can use plants if you like, or
not; have brightly lit tanks, or not. Killifish generally like some shade or
cover, but they don’t seem to be particular. Some killikeepers use bright
lighting, some very little; some have nothing in their tanks but yarn mops,
others use plants extensively. Among the favorites are Java moss, Tropical
hornwort, and Najas Grass, with Java Fern, the Anubias, and a number of the
floating plants, such as Salvinia, Riccia, and Duckweed, also common.
Filtration?
Again, it’s up to the individual
and his or her personal situation and preferences. Some killikeepers insist on
filtration, with air-driven sponge filters generally the preferred type,
although outside filters are also common. Some killikeepers use no filtration at
all and their fish do just fine on regular partial water changes.
Heating?
Most species
do quite well in the normal household temperature range of 65-75°F. There are,
of course, some species that can tolerate much colder temperatures, and some
that insist on higher ones. Use your own situation to dictate which species you
might keep, or plan to supplement the heating.
Feeding?
Killifish will do quite nicely on
nothing more exciting than dry flake food. However, they will do better and will
breed more freely if given a wide variety in their diet, preferably including
live foods. Commercial choices include flake, pellet, freeze-dried, and frozen
foods of many kinds. You can also make your own paste foods, or culture or
collect your own live foods.
Breeding Killifish
Ask any experienced aquarist, and
you’ll hear the same thing: the aquarist doesn’t breed the fish, he or she
simply provides suitable conditions, and the fish then breed freely (or not …).
Many killifish are easy to breed – put a pair together and fry are inevitable.
Other species are next to impossible even for the experienced aquarists among
us. Breeding strategies fall into two basic types: the plant-spawners (such as
the Aphyosemion and the Fundulopanchax species, for example) and
the mud-spawners (Cynolebias and Nothobranchius, among others).
The plant-spawners lay their eggs
among the plant matter in their environment – underwater roots, fine-leafed
floating plants, or the human-provided substitute, floating yarn mops. The eggs
may then be hand picked for incubation in separate containers either in water or
on wet peat, the adult fish may be removed, or the eggs left on the mops and the
mops removed. The simplest breeding method is to place the adults in a heavily
planted tank, feed them well, and simply let nature take its course. For species
that prey on their young, the resulting fry are removed by the aquarist as they
appear.
The mud-spawners prefer to spawn on
or in the bottom, among the mud and decaying plant matter. Fine peat moss is the
usual aquarium substitute. After a week of spawning, the peat is removed, the
excess water squeezed out, and the resulting material stored for a time
appropriate to the species. After incubation, the peat is then flooded with
water, and if all has gone well, the fry hatch.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March
2000
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You've decided that it's time to
build (or to redesign) your fishroom.
It's an exciting, and daunting,
prospect. But before you get carried away, let's review some of the basics.
By definition, a fishroom is a
place where you keep and maintain fish. It may be as simple as a couple of tanks
in the corner of the living room, or as complex as a room (or even a separate
building) specifically designed for aquatic use.
What do you need for a fishroom?
The same things you need for a single aquarium. A location. Tanks and stands. A
supply of clean water and a place to dispose of dirty water. Some way to keep
the water clean. Power for lights and pumps. A place for storage.
The Location
Location of the fishroom is
important. You want it to be easily accessible so you will spend time there
feeding and observing your fish and doing maintenance chores. At the same time,
you don't want it to endure excessive traffic, noise, or pollutants, such as
cooking and chemical odors.
However, a fishroom may be located
anywhere, assuming that it meets a few basic criteria.
Flooring must be
durable enough to contend with water spills and rough treatment, and strong
enough to bear the combined weight of all the tanks, stands, and water. If your
floor is a concrete slab, this is no problem; if you're planning to put the
fishroom on wooden flooring laid over joists, you may have to carefully consider
both the total weight and its proper distribution; free standing floors are
designed to bear specific maximum weight loads. Study the area you plan to use
and check your local building codes to determine what extra supports you may
need to add.
Temperatures. The
average temperatures in the fishroom must be neither excessively
cool nor hot. They should lie within ranges tolerable to the fish, and be easily
warmed or cooled as needed. In some cases, this may require the use of an air
conditioner or supplemental heat, or the addition of insulation or ventilation.
Tanks and Stands
Tanks may be whatever you can
build, buy, or otherwise acquire. Having tanks in uniform sizes and capacities
may make stand design or usage more efficient, but is not necessary.
Whatever tanks you use, you'll
need strong stands to hold them and their contents of water, gravel, plants,
fish and decorations, stands that are wide enough to utilize the length of
lights you plan to use, deep enough to properly support the tanks, and tall
enough to allow you adequate working room for catching fish, changing water, and
tank maintenance.
If you're handy, you can build
your own stands from 2x4 lumber or from cinder blocks and 2x12s. The commercial
heavy duty stands sold at lumber yards are strong enough to bear the weight,
come in 3- and 4-foot lengths, and can be grouped together to produce longer
units.
Both vertical and stepped designs
are possible, usually with the smaller tanks at the top and the larger ones at
the bottom. Tanks may be side by side or "ends out," to maximize use
of available space. Individual shelf height is dependent on the size of the
tanks, the lighting arrangement, and your own working "comfort zone".
Water, Filtering, and Heating Systems
The water. We're
less concerned here with what kind of water you have than how you will get it to
and from your tanks. For smaller fishrooms, aging and moving water using buckets
or plastic jugs may be adequate. For larger fishrooms buckets may prove utterly
impractical, and the use of large heavy duty plastic or fiberglass containers
may better serve for water storage, with delivery accomplished via hose and
submersible pump.
Some larger fishrooms use
centralized water systems that automatically provide fresh or filtered water,
and remove waste. Although such systems are more costly and time-consuming to
install, they generally result in cleaner tanks with less work. On the downside,
all tanks on a system share the same water at similar temperatures, the same
chemistry, and in the case of disease, exposure to the same pathogens.
The filtering system. There
are two basic types of filtering systems for fishrooms: central systems, and
distributed systems.
A central filtering system
utilizes a single pump and filter to process all the water from a series of
connected tanks. Central filtering eliminates the need for individual tank
filters and heaters, thus reducing maintenance time. It does require a better,
more complex, high volume filter, a water pump, and PVC or similar piping for
water distribution and collection. It may or may not require drilling the tanks,
a tricky proposition. For use with air, PVC piping may simply be friction
fitted; for use with water, gluing with proper adhesive is essential.
A distributed filtering system utilizes
individual filters for each tank, all of them driven from a centralized air pump
or pumps that feed the system using PVC pipe or airline tubing. With this
system, the fishkeeper can use airstones or any of the various types of air
driven filters--undergravel, box, or sponge. A central air supply requires a large
air pump(s), an air compressor, or an air blower. Large air pumps can run up to
30 tanks or so, depending on size, and are fairly quiet. Air compressors drive
small volumes of air at high pressure (measured in pounds per square inch [PSI]).
Air blowers provide a large volume of air at low pressure (measured in cubic
feet per minute [CFM]).
Heating. If you're
using a central filtering system, you can install a heater in the filter sump or
the supply tank to heat the water for the entire system, but not all tanks will
be exactly the same temperature. Especially in larger systems, tanks at the far
end of the delivery line may be somewhat cooler. Alternatively, the room can be
heated, or you can use individual tank heaters as needed.
The Power Supply and Lighting
Whatever your fishroom plans may
be, you will need power, for electricity will drive many of the systems, from
lights to pumps to heaters. Most circuits can manage at least 15 amps of power
and a small fishroom will seldom require more than this. Be certain to always
follow the basic rules for electrical safety; installation of a ground fault
interrupt plug is highly recommended.
Although most of us manage with
what we have or can scrounge, general agreement if you're starting from scratch
is that 4-foot long, two tube commercial fluorescent fixtures ("shop
lights") are the most economical bet. They're inexpensive (sometimes even
free) and widely available. Standard fluorescent bulbs work quite well for
aquaria, but you can replace them with other types if you like. Smaller sizes of
fluorescent fixtures are also available, but are more expensive.
To simplify operation, be sure to
include an automatic timer in the system if at all possible.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 1998
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Back to Basics ...
Why filter?
The "why" is
simple. Filters clean the water, reduce toxic solubles, exercise the fish, and
reduce maintenance time. That’s sufficient reason to use filtration in your
aquaria, but even the best systems are only a pale imitation of what occurs in
nature. The natural hydrological cycle evaporates water from the seas and lakes
and releases it as rain, which filters through soil and rocks, then forms ponds
and streams that eventually flow back to the sea. Recreating this cycle, even in
small part, benefits the inhabitants of our aquaria.
But what is the best system? That
depends on your aquaria and its needs.
In aquaria, filtration follows a
pattern similar to that in nature, but on a much smaller scale. Water evaporates
from the surface and must be replaced. The remaining water is cleaned by drawing
it through filter media where colonizing bacteria help clear it of toxins and
residues. Living plants also help utilize waste- and by-products produced by the
fish.
This waste, otherwise known as mulm,
is a particulate sludge that sinks to the bottom of the tank and the filters. It
is not wholly detrimental, since it contains bacteria that aid in the breakdown
of nitrite and ammonia, but it is unsightly and contributes to cloudiness.
Undergravel filters tend to pull this mulm down into the gravel, where it is
further broken down.
The box filter is, perhaps, the most
simplified version of the natural hydrological cycle. Mulm is trapped inside the
box filter by the foam or polyester floss. Gravel or carbon can also be used in
the filters, and the entire structure can easily be removed for cleaning.
Simple air-driven foam filters are
ideal for breeding tanks. Fry are not drawn into the filter and the mulm
collected on the surface of the foam develops a layer of bacteria and infusoria
on which the fry feed.
Power filters are the most useful for
cleaning water, with both internal and external designs available. Internal
filters are unobtrusive and silent and contain a foam insert that is easy to
clean. Carbon can also be added, or ceramic filter material. External power
filters are more powerful, producing up to a twice per hour throughput, and
require less maintenance. Flow rates vary, depending on the type of filter
material used. External filters are often houseed beneath the aquarium, so must
lift against the head of water above them. The ideal situation is to have the
filter placed beside the aquarium. A downside to power filters is noise. Since
the impeller gradually wears the chamber, an annoying rattle can develop with
age.
For perfectly clear water, the filter
media should filter down to one micron in size, or less. Diatomaceous earth (the
silica shells of microscopic animals) is ideal for this. However, diatom filters
clog rapidly and require cleaning within an hour or so. They are thus best
suited for occasional use as polishing filters. Since they are also expensive,
private purchase is often not practical; some clubs have purchased a unit and
circulated it among the members.
Beginner? Advanced? Expert Aquarist?
We’re all
continually learning in this hobby.
People of all skill levels and interests keep fish. We do, however, fall into
several loose classifications, defined by our level of interest, our degree of
knowledge and expertise, and our level of activity, both with our own fish and
in the hobby as a whole. Amateur aquarists range from those who have simply
decided that they want to keep an aquarium to the most highly skilled breeders
of "impossible" species. And someone who is considred an expert in one
area may be a rank beginner in another.
All aquarists, however, seem to move through a definable series or stages of
development, as they learn to deal with new techniques, new equipment, new fish.
Which stage are you in?
The Beginner
"Beginner"
is a broad stage, marked by a number of quit/don’t quit crises. The beginner
has decided that he wants to keep fish; has bought equipment and fish; set up
the aquarium, filled it with water and put in the fish. The beginner stage is
traditionally plagued by reactionary effort, with problems becoming critical
before even being noticed. The new fish are soon dying, or he’s faced with the
problems of leaky tanks and malfunctioning equipment. At this stage he may 1) quit,
with the tank ending up in a garage sale; or 2) he may not quit, learning
from the experience and moving on, to try again.
If the beginner
doesn’t become too discouraged, he starts to become more observant, paying
more attention to the fish and their environment. He begins to seek out
information, to read and to learn more about his new hobby. Soon he can keep
hardy fish alive, and perhaps even begin to breed a few of the easier livebearer
species, such as guppys or mollies. He still faces regular crises of disease and
panic (quit), but he’s trying hard (don’t quit).
Even so, quitting is still a very real possibility. A good many people never get
past this stage.
Slowly,
however, the learning beginner starts to gain confidence. The first major
indicator of achievement is reached when he buys a fish "costing more than
a dollar." Soon regular water changes become part of the routine, and both
the fish and the tank are usually disease-free. But disaster can -
and usually does - still strike. When it does, the
budding aquarist usually either gives up completely (quit), or moves on
to the next stage (don’t quit).
The Novice
Most hobbyists,
by definition, are at the novice, or intermediate level, but this stage can
include a wide range of interest levels and abilities. Some hobbyists never move
beyond the beginning of this stage, and are simply content to kep a pretty
aquarium. They have minimal interaction with other hobbyists, often because they
don’t know of any others, or of local groups. Most of their expertise still
comes from their local dealer.
More advanced hobbyists often do not consider individuals at this level of
activity to be true hobbyists.
The amateur aquarist may begin to add books to his own
personal aquatic
library, even as he gains from his own personal experiences and his growing
interactions with others. He may rapidly proceed to a more skilled level, and
begin to encounter the "two opposite answers to the same question"
problem, but only after a good deal more experience will he develop enough to
benefit from such conflicting information. The hobbyist also begins to add tools
to his arsenal: water test kits, microscopes, etc.
The novice level can be characterized by a number of definable stages, but
the progression is not linear. Any aquarist may be in any of the following
stage(s) at any given time.
Expansion - Will a tank fit there? Will
that shelf, that piece of furniture hold an aquarium? In advanced cases, plans
for fishrooms blossom and spouses cringe as sketches fly and hammer and nails
compete with saw and wood shavings.
Latinate -
The hobbyist begins to
recognize and to use proper scientific names; he stops calling a cichlid a chicklid. The
uninitiated around such a budding aquarist can be easily convinced that the
hobbyist knows more than he really does.
Joiner -
This is usually triggered by a
growing need to have others to talk to about the hobby. A great deal of
education can occur at this stage, along with a great deal of confusion, since
conflicting information may be forthcoming on any given topic.
"Catch
‘em or Grow ‘em" -
Suddenly the simple maintenance of fish in an
aquarium isn’t quite enough. The aquarist begins to want to feed live foods,
and to catch or to grow both foods and fish. Caution is required during this
stage, since long periods of fish madness or an escaped or soured food culture
can drive a spouse to issue ultimatums.
Local Guru -
The hobbyist is usually fairly advanced in
knowledge by this point, and begins to be asked to lecture at meetings. He’s
also liable to receive phone calls at odd hours asking him to help solve other
aquarist’s problems.
Growth and Specialty -
Bigger is better;
smaller tanks are replaced by bigger ones, increasing the danger to fingers and
toes. The hobbyist begins to take due or undue pride in a single
fish or species of fish, and often begins to enter his fish in shows.
Specialization in a particular group of fishes, such as angelfish, catfishes or
killifish may occur.
The Advanced Aquarist
This is about as far as one can go and remain a hobbyist. Basic construction
skills - carpentry, plumbing, electrical work -
have all been mastered during construction of the fishroom. Numerous errors of
management and judgement have been made and overcome. The fish are spawning
readily and the fry are being sold.
The line between hobbyist and professional begins, imperceptibly, to blur.
Some willingly and successfully make the transition beyond hobbyist status.
The vast majority of us are content to simply breed the best fish we can, to
share our knowledge, to assist others in their learning experiences, and to
enjoy this hobby that couples a great deal of visual and psychological pleasure
with a little bit of biology, a little genetics, and a little ecology.
Did you find
yourself desscribed above? If you’re enjoying the hobby, does it really
matter?
References:
Hemdal, Jay, "The Making of a Hobbyist," Aquarium Fish Magazine,
October 1990, pp. 39-47.
Mortensen, Jim, "If I Had Only Known," Freshwater and Marine
Aquarium, April 1986, pp. 32-34
- GCK Newsletter, December
1997
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We’ve all faced it: that gradual wearing
down of enthusiasm that makes us realize we’ve come to the (hopefully
temporary) extent of our interest in a pursuit that had been a passion.
It happens, both to those who have
been in a hobby for years and those newer to the ranks who have tried to
"do it all right now." Joy evaporates with the increasing workload;
pleasure becomes drudgery.
"Today I got on the telephone
and made travel reservations," wrote Melanie Wiley in the March 1999 Exclusively Killies
Newsletter. "Then I went into the fish room and realized that we have
little or no fry to sell to defray the cost of those trips. OOPS! Now what? I
can’t blame the water conditions or lack of rain or heat or anything, for that
matter. It’s just a simple case of burnout. I lost interest because I was
spending too much time in the fish room and it became a job instead of a hobby.
It just wasn’t fun any more!"
"My interest in killies
certainly ebbs and flows," says Lou Veiga. "Sometimes [my] interest is
very high, and sometimes very low. During the high interest times, the fishroom
tends to expand, and the fish are fed richly, grow beautifully, and reproduce
easily. During slack times activity drops to a minimum, the fish are not as
robust, and I merely maintain the fishes (or they breed on their own)."
Burnout is a reality that "can
happen in any of a number of treasured activities and passions," says Scott
Davis. People get overinvolved, then find "that they weren’t keeping the
killies, the killies (sled dogs, sports of their choice, etc., etc.) were
keeping them."
What do you do to cure this problem?
"The best solution is to take a serious inventory of your fishroom,"
says Melanie. "Decide which fish you really want to work with, then decide
how many tanks you can maintain in good working order" in the time you have
available. "If you were culling fry you would get ruthless, right? Get
ruthless!"
"It is better to have fewer
tanks that one can care for effectively and efficiently," Scott agrees.
"Be as brutally honest with yourself as you can be, then try again. That
way, when things get busy (or you get involved in a killie club) the passion for
killies will not turn sour. Some of the … [breeders] with lots of tanks have
mastered the art of setting up water changing systems and balancing their
fishroom demands with the rest of their lives," he adds.
"If you budget the time you
spend [in the fishroom] you will come out of this serious state," Melanie
assures us. "Those breeders who really do raise fry usually limit those
species they are working with at any given time. When you can pick and choose
the job to do in your fishroom today, the fish will once again become fun. Both
you and your fish will benefit!"
A Few Suggestions …
"The best number of species
to keep is different for everyone," Lou points out, "but here are some
‘rules of thumb’ that I use to keep exhaustion to a minimum:"
1. Keep the fish biomass low; don’t
overpopulate your tanks.
2. Feed live foods as often as
possible, but feed flake food daily for ease of feeding and variety.
3. Use plants such as Java moss and
water sprite to keep nitrates and nitrites low and to provide shelter. Use
snails to keep things clean.
4. Establish natural breeding setups
whenever possible.
5. Organize the fishroom for minimal
effort.
6. Watch your expenses! Do without
special things; improvise.
7. Occasionally find a fish you
really like, that is rare, or that hasn’t been heard of in a while.
Concentrate on succeeding with this fish.
8. Try to buy two or three pairs of
the same species to avoid "widows and orphans." Share some of the fry
with a friend, so you’ll have "spares" in case of disaster.
9. Cut back severely if you get
burned out; take a break. "Maybe you need a good nine-month diapause?"
suggests Lou. "If so, specialize in a few of the longer-cycling annuals and
use your exhaustion to your advantage with the longer incubation times."
10. Don’t become a monomaniac.
Develop interests other than killies to keep things in balance!
References: Viega, Lou. "Killie Burnout: Musings on the
Internet–Part One." Killie Dirt, September/October 1997, Volume IV
Number 5, pp. 10-11.
Davis, Scott. "Killie Burnout: Musings on the Internet–Part Two." Killie
Dirt, September/October 1997, Volume IV Number 5, pp. 11-12.
Wiley, Melanie. "Burn Out!" Exclusively Killies Newsletter,
March 1999.
A term that is readily recognized
by most aquarists is "carbonate hardness." But what, exactly, does it
mean?
Carbonate hardness is the result
of contact between water (H2O) containing carbon dioxide (CO2) and lime or chalk
(CaCO3). Carbon dioxide reduces calcium carbonate to calcium hydrogen carbonate,
which imparts carbonate hardness to nearly all fresh waters. In salt lakes,
carbonate hardness is partially due to sodium hydrogen carbonate (NaHCO3 ). Many
municipal waterworks add chalk or lime to the extremely soft water to prevent
corrosion of piping.
The pH value of aquarium water is
determined by the ratio of carbonate hardness and carbon dioxide. In most
natural waters, the overall hardness consists mostly of carbonate hardness; when
it is high, so is pH. When breeding fish, carbonate hardness influences egg
maturation, embryo hatching, and the well being of the fry.
Many species have become adjusted
to their particular water conditions; under certain conditions, some plants can
even utilize carbonate ions as a substitute for CO2. This biogenic
declassification can reduce the carbonate hardness of an aquarium over time.
The usual form of nitrate seen in
aquaria is nitric acid; this, too can absorb carbonate hardness. If the nitrate
content of the water increases by 22 mg/l, carbonate hardness will be reduced by
1 dKH. In extreme instances, this process can lead to acid fall, a drop in pH so
severe that the fish die.
In tanks with good biological
filtration, the pH usually remains quite stable, since denitrification daily
removes the same amount of nitrate that is present.
Carbonate hardness can also be
formed in the aquarium. Carbon dioxide fertilizers can dissolve chalk which is
present in the substrate or decorations, increasing the hardness. The simplest
way of increasing the carbonate hardness is to dissolve sodium hydrogen
carbonate (NaHCO3 ), more commonly known as bicarbonate of soda, or baking
powder. A heaped teaspoon in 100 liters of water increases the carbonate
hardness by 3.3 dH. This should not be used in extremely soft water, since
bicarbonate of soda contains neither calcium nor magnesium.
Reducing carbonate hardness is
most simply accomplished by dilution with distilled or fully desalinated (RO)
water, or by filtering the water through peat. Using peat in an aquarium filter
for several weeks or more, however, may have the reverse effect, since the
material biologically decomposes and releases large amounts of minerals.
References:
Kassebeer, Dr. Gerd. "An Analytical Course for Aquarists," Part
III, Carbonate hardness of the aquarium water.
Today's Aquarium, April 1986.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 1998
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Cleanliness in our aquaria - the
homes for the fish we keep - is an important aspect of fishkeeping.
We all know that.
Normal cleanliness, of course,
varies from fishroom to fishroom and tank to tank, but usually involves such
regular maintenance as wiping down the glass and lids, changing or rinsing out
filter media, and doing regular partial water changes. All of these procedures
are designed to keep our finned charges healthy and relatively happy.
Cleanliness varies, too, depending
on the intended use of particular aquaria. Cleanliness in an established
community tank, for example, may not be adequate for a breeding tank, or one
used for rearing fry.
But what cleaning agents can you
use to really clean and disinfect a tank after disease has gained a hold,
for instance, or when first setting up equipment long unused, or from another
source?
Several effective
cleaning/disinfecting agents suitable for aquatic use are available in many
homes, including salt, household bleach, hydrogen peroxide, and clear ammonia.
Other, less common but equally effective cleaning agents are ethyl alcohol and
potassium permanganate. Each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.
Whatever cleaning agent you use,
be sure to wash down everything that is used in and around the tank. Not
only the tank itself, to and including the rim, the sides and the cover, but
also the filter and filter box and all intake and outflow tubing, both air and
water. At the same time it's a good idea to clean nets, temporary containers for
fish or food, algae scrapers, and anything else that is used in and around your
tanks on which pathogens could hitch a ride from diseased to healthy fish or
tanks. This list can also include the plants, the gravel, and other fish.
Herewith, a brief overview of
several cleaning agents.
Salt is perhaps the most
commonly used cleaning agent for aquaria and related items. Incoming plants can
be soaked in a salt solution to effectively kill or weaken a major proportion of
unwanted "visitors" that sometimes sneak in among the leaves or roots.
Poured on a damp rag, salt will scour and polish tank glass. Salt rinses away
cleanly, although minor residual amounts will benefit most killifish.
Common household bleach (5%
sodium hypochloriteClorox or its generic equivalent) does a fine job of
disinfecting aquaria and related equipment. For most uses a mixture of 1 cup
bleach per gallon of water (1:16) will work well. Some prefer a stronger mix,
with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Either works effectively as a rinse, a net
soak, and a general disinfectant. For most purposes, a brief soaking or rinse
with the mixture is sufficient. For more worrisome pathogens, or to thoroughly
sterilize equipment, let soak in the bleach solution for 24 hours.
Removing residual bleach may be
difficult, although usually a thorough clear water rinse followed by air drying
will suffice. However, plastics may actually absorb some of the hypochlorite.
For plastics, an "airing out" period is essential. An alternate method
is to give the cleaned items a thorough secondary wash with diluted acid or
plain (white) vinegar, which is roughly 7.5% acetic acid. Dilute the vinegar
1:20 with water for a reagent that will destroy any bleach residue. A clear
water rinse will then remove the acid. Do not add vinegar directly to the
bleach solution the result will be toxic chlorine gas!
Hydrogen peroxide is used
both as a bleach and as a disinfectant, and is commonly found in the medicine
chest. Hydrogen peroxide kills bugs on contact. Most hydrogen peroxide comes in
a 35% solution; a 5% solution is recommended for aquatic use. The solution
decomposes rather quickly, leaving no residue, and it is easier on the hands
than is bleach. Be sure to store any unused 5% solution in the refrigerator.
Peroxide concentrate can become explosive if it gets too warm keep it at 80F or
less.
Clear ammonia. Most
households have a container of clear (not sudsy) ammonia on hand. A 1:4 mix with
water will sterilize almost anything and leave no residue behind. Ammonia may be
rough on your nose, but it rinses away cleanly with several hot water washes.
Any remaining traces will be broken down by the microbes in the filter bed,
which handle this type of ammonia just as they do naturally produced ammonia in
the tank.
Ethanol (ethyl alcohol).
Although bacteria can live quite well in pure alcohol (190 proof), a 75%
solution (150 proof) will work quite well to kill the majority of them. The
solution destroys the cell walls of the bacteria, making it an effective
disinfecting agent. Alcohol evaporates quickly, leaving no residue.
Potassium permanganate. If
you enjoy working with what looks like dilute grape juice, try a 1% solution of
potassium permanganate. Initially it will stain, but as it oxidizes organic
material it produces manganese dioxide, a brown sludge. The cleanser is good for
glass and plastics, but it isn't recommended for such items as nets, breeding
mops, or clothing. If you do get a stain where you don't want it (on your
clothes, for example), you can dissolve the stain by using hydrogen peroxide.
--
G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 1997
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Collecting in Florida - Exotics and Killifish Too!
By Donna M. Recktenwalt
A special "prequel" to the collecting opportunities offered by the location of this year’s national AKA convention – Tampa, Florida.
With the Suncoast Killifish Society hosting the American Killifish Association show in Tampa in May 2000, it’s time to think about all the things a visit to the SunShine State can offer. Based on what we’re hearing from the show committee, the opportunities for collecting in the Tampa area will be numerous, and since Florida is home (albeit accidentally) to a number of non-native species as well, the possibilities are boundless.
Where Might You Find Them?
The Exotics. Central
and Gulf Coast Florida are home to numerous commercial fish farms. A good
concentration is in Gibsonton, on the eastern side of Tampa Bay, and in
Hillsborough, Polk, Manatee, Pinellas, and Pasco Counties, which ring the Tampa
area. The ditches and streams in this area often hold escapees. A good
topographic map will show the farm locations and the various bodies of water
around them. In southern Florida, the area from Lake Okeechobee east to the
Atlantic Ocean and south to the Caribbean Sea is prime collecting territory for
exotics. The manmade canals are good places to look, since they provide a
"thermal refuge", being warmed by surface runoff and shielded from
cool winds.
The Killifish. Many
freshwater killifish are found in the dense masses of plants that grow where
shallow ditches empty into larger ditches and creeks. Najas, Ludwigia,
Urticaria, Elodea and Sagittaria often fill these transient areas,
and provide hiding places for a number of killifish: Jordanella floridae,
Fundulus chrysotus, F. cingulatus, F. confluentus, Lucania goodiae and L.
parva, among others. Another grouping not uncommon in salt or brackish water
is F. confluentus, Adinia xenica, and Rivuluis marmoratus.
A Few Rules, Regulations, and Recommendations
Before wading out with your
collecting net, you’ll need a Florida fishing license. These can be purchased
at any bait shop or supplier of fishing equipment, such as K-Mart or hardware
stores. Residents and non-residents may purchase fishing licenses good for a
year, but if you’re just visiting, a temporary 3- or 7-day non-resident
fishing license is a better buy. Prices vary from less than $10.00 to more than
$30.00; check out the Florida Game and Fresh water Fish Commission’s web site
at http://fcn.state.fl.us/ gfc/fishing for more information.
The Florida fishing license allows
you, under the rules for catching bait, to legally collect minnows, topminnows,
killifish, and other non-game species for your own use. A Florida fishing
license is valid in county, state, and Federal lands that permit fishing; in
National parks you can only fish by hook and line; you can’t use nets or
traps. To collect on private property, always ask permission.
As far as equipment goes, there are a
variety of seines, nets, and traps available at good bait and tackle shops.
A seine net is a large,
rectangular net with floats on the top and (often) weights on the bottom. These
may be operated by one or two people. Longer seines require a person at each
end; the net is pulled toward shore and the contents sorted. By tying poles to
each end of a shorter seine (4 feet), a person alone can wade from deeper to
shallower water, reaching into holes and getting right up to the edge of brush
or weed beds.
In more open water, a cast net
may be useful. This circular net takes some practice to master, since it must
be thrown with a sidewise motion. In waters with snags, they will invariably get
hung up, usually just when you least want them to.
By law, both minnow and cast nets in
Florida must have a stretched mesh size no larger than 1 inch, can be no longer
than 20 feet, and no deeper than 4 feet.
The dip net is another
useful tool, which may be used to scoop up schools of small fish or bunches of
plants. By picking through the plants, you may find many young fish, but be sure
to return the plants to the water. By law, dip nets may be no larger than 4 feet
across.
Minnow traps my also
be useful. Fish enter these metal or plastic traps through a funnel shaped
opening at one end, then are unable to find their way out. Minnow traps may be
no longer than 24 inches, and no larger than 12 inches in diameter; the funnel
entrance may be no larger than 1 inch wide. Use is simple: bait with a mesh bag
of brine shrimp, night crawlers, or bread, and place in the water near brushy
cover. Let sit for a few hours or overnight, then collect your catch.
If you catch any game fish, such as
chain pickerel, largemouth and other black basses, striped bass, sunfish, and
either Speckled (Cichla temensis) or Butterfly peacock bass (Cichla
ocellaris), which were introduced as sports fish, with nets, seines, or
traps, they must be immediately released.
A rod and reel with a
non-barbed hook may be used to catch larger fish, with hook size proportionate
to the size of fish you’re after. Most hooked fish, if handled with care, seem
basically unharmed by the experience.
Transporting Your Catch
You’ll need to make provisions
for transporting the fish you collect. The usual shipping
combinations of styros, hard- and soft-sided picnic coolers, and double plastic
bags works well for the smaller fishes. For larger specimens you may need to
have covered buckets or large covered plastic containers on hand. If you’re
traveling by personal vehicle, these can be easily stowed.
If you’re traveling by air, other
arrangements may be required. Some fishkeepers report that double bagging their
fish, packing them in soft-sided bags and checking them through as carry-on
luggage works well. Others report having shipped well-packed and boxed fish
through as luggage without problems. The risk factor varies directly with the
airline and the employees you may have to deal with. Another option is to ship
the fish via Fed Ex, or by Priority or Express Mail, assuming that you can make
arrangements for delivery at the other end.
All these shipping methods have their hazards; the method you select will depend
on your individual circumstances.
Hazards!
However eager you are to wade in
and collect, remember that Florida is not only home to a number of interesting
fish, but also to several other animals that can be downright dangerous.
Alligators are
definitely a hazard, and should be avoided. A precaution you can take is to poke
a stick in the bottom ahead of you as you wade; this will frighten the
alligators, and warn you of holes and soft spots. Although most alligators will
avoid people, some may become very aggressive, and can do serious damage. If in
doubt, leave the site to the ‘gators. If you do encounter one and are chased,
try running in a zig-zag pattern; they move quickly, but don’t change
direction well. If attacked, fight as hard as you can.
Some poisonous snakes,
such as the Water Moccasin and the Coral Snake, are also native to Florida.
Scare them away by beating the brush from around the shore before you wade in;
also glance around regularly at the water to see if any are swimming your way.
If possible, avoid snakes; never kill one. If bitten, seek medical aid
immediately.
Fire Ants can be a
problem in Florida. Watch where you step so you don’t stand on a nest, usually
appearing as a sandy elevation up to a few feet across, or a large, conical
earth mound. Boots, long pants and protective clothing can help prevent stings.
If stung, wash with soap and water, then swab with antiseptic. Ice will help.
Although painful, the stings aren’t usually dangerous.
1 It is illegal in Florida to possess or transport live fish of the Tilapia, Sarotherodon and Oreochromis genera.
References
De Bruyn, Henri. "Florida Killifish, Their Natural Environment,
Behavior and Breeding, Part I. Journal of the American Killifish Association,
May/June 1999, Volume 32, No. 3, pp. 100.
De Bruyn, Henri. "Florida Killifish, Their Natural Environment, Behavior
and Breeding, Part II. Journal of the American Killifish Association, July/August
1999, Volume 32, No. 4, pp. 116-128.
Ganley, Thomas and Robert Bock. "Fish Collecting in Florida: Part 1," Aquarium
Fish Magazine, November 1998, pp. 31-41.
Ganley, Thomas and Robert Bock. "Fish Collecting in Florida: Part 2." Aquarium
Fish Magazine, December 1998, pp. 43-53.
Page, Lawrence M. and Brooks M. Burr. Peterson Field Guides: Freshwater
Fishes. Houghton Mifflin Company, 1991.
Collecting in Florida - The Fish
The following is a sampling of the fish you may find in Florida. Be certain to review any special rules required by State Fish and Game before you remove fish from local waters.
The Cichlids1,2
Black acara (Cichlasoma bimaculatum)
Blackchin mouthbrooder (Sarotherodon melanotheron)1
Black Port Cichlid (C. bimaculatum)
Blue Tilapia (Oreochromis aureus)1
Firemouth Cichlid (Cichlasoma [Herichthys] meeki)
Fivespot Tilapia (Tilapia mariae)1
Jack Dempsey (Cichlasoma [Herichthys] octofasciatum)
Jewel Cichlid (Hemichromis bimaculatus)
Mayan Cichlid (Cichlasoma [Herichthys] urophthalmus)
Midas Cichlid/Red Devil (Cichlasoma [Herichthys] citrinellum)
Mozambique Mouthbrooder (Oreochromis mossambicus)1
Oscar (Astronotus ocellatus)
Peacock Cichlid (Cichla ocellaris)2
Redstriped Eartheater (Geophagus surinamensis)
Rio Grande (Texas) Cichlid (Cichlasoma [Herichthys] cyanoguttatum)
Spotted Tilapia (Tilapia mariae)1
Natives
Banded Pygmy Sunfish (Elassoma zonatum)
Blackbanded Darter (Percina nigrofasciata)
Bluespot Sunfish (Enneacanthus gloriosus)
Brown Darter (Etheostoma edwini)
Coastal Shiner (Notropis petersoni)
Everglades Pygmy Sunfish (Elassoma evergladei)
Flagfin Shiner, Sailfin Shiner (Pteronotropis signipinnis)
Ironcolor Shiner (Notropic chalyboeus)
Least Killifish (Heterandria formosa)
Okefenokee Pygmy Sunfish (Elassoma okefenokee)
Pirate Perch (Aphredoderus sayanus)
Pugnose Minnow (Opsopoeodus emiliae)
Speckled Madtom (Notorus leptacenthus)
Swamp Darter (Etheostoma fusiforme)
Tadpole Madtom (Notorus gyrinus)
Taillight Shiner (Notropic maculatus)
Native Killifish
Adinia xenica
(Diamond Killifish) – Prefers mangrove canals. Found with R. marmoratus
and F. confluentus, often with Gambusia and Poecelia [Molenesia]
lattipina; has an Epiplatys-like head spot. Breeds at 70-75°F at 1.010
salinity or above.
Cyprinodon variegatus variegatus (Sheepshead
Minnow) – Saltwater lagoons and mangroves. Territorial breeders that prefer
70°F or so, with 1.010 salinity or above.
Cyprinodon variegatus hubbsi
(Sheepshead Minnow) – Central, moderately hard, alkaline freshwater lakes.
More elongated body that variegatus. Found with sunfishes and F. seminolis,
swims in schools near the bottom. Breeds at 68-74°F.
Floridichthys carpio –
Saltwater dweller found in lagoons and mangrove areas with C. varigatus, F.
similis, and L. parva. Bottom dwellers with seaweed.
Fundulus cingulatus (Banded
Topminnow) – Often found with F. chrysotus, in northern and central
Florida. Prefers soft, acid water. Some scientists believe the F. cingulatus
from the Panhandle is actually F. auroguttatus, with the more southern/
eastern type is F. rubrifrons.
Fundulus chrysotus (Golden
Topminnow, Golden Ear) – Found all over Florida, usually beneath surface
plants. Breeds at 76° to 78°F.
Fundulus confluentus –Found
in both fresh- and salt water. Prefers hard, alkaline water. Breeds at 60-70°F.
Fundulus escambiae –
Similar to F. chrysotus and F. cingulatus; Panhandle area. Prefers
shallow, soft, acid water with lots of plant cover.
Fundulus grandis – Salt or
brackish water, usually in mangrove or flat lagoon areas with seagrass. Often
found with C. variegatus, F. carpio, and F. similis. Breeds at
75-80°F, hard, alkaline water at 1.010 salinity.
Fundulus heteroclitus, majalis,
jenkinsi, grandis saguanus – Salt or brackish water species.
Fundulus lineolatus (Lined
Topminnow) – North and north central Florida. Surface swimmers; prefers
shallow, soft, slightly acid water.
Fundulus olivaceus –
Panhandle area. Have an Epiplatys-like head spot. Swim close to the bank at the
edges of open water.
Fundulus seminolis (Seminole
Killifish) – Schooling fish that prefer the bottom of hard, alkaline waters.
Large, hard to catch.
Fundulus similis – Saltwater
species, found with F. grandis. Needs at least 1.012 salinity.
Leptolucania ommata (Pygmy
Killifish) – Found in very soft, slightly acid water, in shallow areas with
dense vegetation. Prefers it warm (77°F) for breeding.
Lucania goodiae (Bluefin
Killifish) – Likes plant cover, swims just beneath the surface. Breeds at
7