---   The Fishroom Library Archives ---

General Articles on Fishkeeping, with an Emphasis on Killifish (1996-2000)

An archived collection of articles, tips, and information about tropical fishkeeping in general, and killi-keeping in particular, from past issues of the G.C.K.A. Newsletter.  To read an article, please click on the title (in blue).

All material is copyright © G.C.K.A. or the authors, unless otherwise noted. Reproduction is permitted for non-commercial purposes only (i.e., club bulletins). We do request that you provide source credit, and send us a copy of the publication in which the article appears. Please forward to G.C.K.A., c/o Recktenwalt, 4337 Ridgepath Drive, Dayton, OH 45424.

The Abbreviations - what are those three letter codes, anyway?
Acclimatizing Your Fish - What's the Best Way? A few techniques.
A Case for Dirty Water - sometimes less water changes are better.
A Few Views on Killies and Ponds.
Alternate Aquaria - aquarists aren't limited simply to glass, acrylic, or plastic containers.
Among the Problems - Velvet. Some ideas on how to handle this scourge of killikeepers.
Another Viewpoint on Natural Setups
Another Water Source - Dehumidifiers?
A Primer on Peat Moss - types of peat moss and their uses in aquaria.
A Rose is a Rose .. or Must We Use Those Latin Names? - a clarification of nomenclature.
Back to Basics - The Beginning Killikeeper.
Beginner? Advanced? Expert Aquarist? Where Do You Fall?
Burnout! - how to avoid that "overwhelmed" feeling.
Carbonate Hardness - another factor to consider in your water supply.
Cleaning Aquaria - for those times you want to get things really clean.
Cleaning Old Tanks - a few tips for those really dirty old aquaria.
Collecting in Florida - what to plan for, what to expect, what you might collect.
Collecting in Florida - the Fish - some of the fish you might find.
Collection Codes - A Primer - an overview of those strange letter/number suffixes to names.
Color and Intensity in Killifish ... a discussion - some of the factors that affect color.
Conditioning Water
Crossbreeding Experiments with Epiplatys sexfasciatus - abstract.
Ecology ... of Orinoco basin annual killifish - abstract.
Feeding Habits Studied - the interaction of four fish species studied.
A few good starter fish - some recommendations from those who have been there.
A Few Tips on Raising Fry - observations by several experienced aquarium keepers.
A Fish Out of Water ... - rivulins and their "amphibious" benavior.
A Genetic Study on Gold AUS - report on scientific study of inheritance in Aphyosemion australe.
The Good, the Bad, and The Ugly - a slightly different take on the theme.
Good Water? Good Question - what is your local water like?
Harmful Water
How Many Are Too Many? - what is your comfort level?
Hybrids - Intriguing, but Undesirable - ok for scientific study, but not for general distribution.
Identification in the Field - some notes from Barry Cooper
If They Can Jump ... They Will! - why do fish jump?
Judging Killifish - what a judge looks for in show fish.
Just for Fun ... - what the biggest, smallest, etc. killifish?
Just How Long Do They Live? - Killifish are short lived; or are they?
Keepin' Killies - A Primer - some basics about keeping killifish.
Keeping Track ... - keeping track of what species/eggs/fish you have.
Keeping Track of pH - a few ways to monitor your water quality.
Killies and Other Companions
Lighting for Killifish - what's the best light for viewing them?
Losing New Fish? A Few Pointers - a few tips for reducing those stress-related losses.
Mad Dash to Nowhere - fright syndrome and a few tips on preventing it.
Make Your Own Filters - thanks to Jack Heller.
Malaysian (Livebearing) Snails
Moving Fry - One Technique
The Nature Conservancy Buys a Mexican Oasis
Nomenclature and Killifish - why those names are important.
Overrun by Snails? try a natural solution
Panic Attacks - A Few Strategies - triggers and prevention techniques.
Back to Basics - Planning the Fishroom - some things to consider.
Pond Maintenance for Spring - a suggested checklist.
Say It! Understand It! - an overview of that Latin/Greek and what some of it means.
Shipping Fish - An Overview
Shipping Killies - a few basic rules for successful shipment of killifish.
Shipping Your Fish - some suggestions for successful shipments.
Some Good Starter Killies - a few suggestions for that first killifish.
Some Observations on Orinoco Basin Habitat
Snails and Eggs ... Good or Bad?
Snails ... Snails ... Snails - a brief overview of the types of snails common in aquaria.
Soft Water/Hard Water - discussion of water parameters for killifish.
Something's Fishy ... - another look at aquatic-aquired granuloma.
Species? Subspecies? or Population? How do we tell the difference?
"Sports" in Killikeeping
Tank Additives - Oak Leaves - another aid to conditioning water.
Tips from the Fishroom ... A few more suggestions from killikeepers.
To Filter ... or Not to Filter - that is the question.
Usefulness of the Slime Coat - what it is, and what it does for your fish.
Vacation Care for Fry - Revisited - another method.
Vacation Care - What to do When You Won't Be There To Do It - you may not have to feed them.
A Variation on Fry Boxes - one breeder's trick for keeping fry.
Warning Signs ... - where do you fall?
Water Borne Infections - it can happen to you.
Water Changes - Basic Fishkeeping.
Water Changes - Revisited - why they're important.
Water Conductivity - another view of water.
Water Hardness - A Comparison - a look at the dH, gH, fH, and US scales of hardness.
Water Values and Water Tests - an overview.
What Can't You Do Without? - essential items that we don't think about.
Back to Basics - What Filter Do I Need?
What Is A Fishroom? - definitions, and basic information.

More About Names:  The Abbreviations

        In a previous article we discussed scientific names, those tongue twisting Latin/Greek constructions that are used to identify all described living things. However, no mention was made of the three letter abbreviations, such as AUS, GAR, etc., that occasionally show up in reference to various killifish.
        Very simply, the three letter abbreviations are a technical shorthand for the identification of killifish, which facilitate accurate communication without having to spell out entire species names.
        The concept, originally developed by Jorgen Sheel and first published in his Rivulins of the Old World (1975), covered only the old world killifishes. Since then a number of additional species have been identified, and the classification of some species has been changed.
        The following list is undoubtedly incomplete and prone to error (many of the Roloffias, for example have been recently reclassified), but it still should provide at least a handy beginning reference for the aquarist.
     A. - Aphyosemion
     Aplo. - Aplochielus
     C.  - Cynolegias
     E. - Epiplatys
     F. - Fundulopanchax
     N. - Nothobranchius
     Riv. - Rivulus
     R. - Roloffia

   Code   /   Species Names
    AHL - A. ahli
    AMI - A. amieti
    ANN - E. annulatus
    ARN - A. arnoldi
    AUS - A. australe
    BAR - E. barmoiensis
    BAT - A. batesii
    BER - R. bertholdi
    BIF - E. bifasciatus
    BIV - A. bivittatum
    BLO - Aplo. blockii
    BUA - A. bualanum
    CAL - A. calliurum
    CAM - A. cameronense
    CHA - E. chaperi
    CHE - E. chevalieri
    CHR - A. christyi
    CIN - A. cinnamomeum
    DAG - E. dageti
    DAY - Aplo. dayi   
    DOM - Aplo. panchax dorsomarginatus
    DUB - Aphyoplatys duboisi
    ELE - A. elegans
    ESE - E. esekanus
    ESI - A. exiguum
    FAS - E. fasciolatus
    FER - A. ferranti
    FIL - A. filamentosum
    FLA - A. flavipinnis
    FUL - A. fulgens
    GAM - Fundulosoma gambiense
    GAR - F. gardneri
    GEO - A. georgiae
    GER - R. geryi
    GRA - E. grahami
    GUE - N. guentheri
    GUI - R. guineensis
    GUL - A. gulare
    HOM - Pachypanchax homalonotus
    LAB - A. labarrei
    LAM - E. lamottei
    LIB - R. liberiensis
    LIN - Aplo. lineatus
    LON - E. longiventralis
    LOU - A. louessense
    MAE - R. maeseni
    MIL - N. microlepis
    MON - E. dageti monroviae
    MUF - E. multifasciatus
    NIC - E. nigricans
    OCC - R. occidentalis
    OGO - A. ogoense
    ORT - N. orthonotus
    PAN - A. panchax
    PET - R. petersii
    PLA - P. playfairi
    RAC - N. rachovii
    ROL - R. roloffi
    SEX - E. sexfasciatus
    SIN - E. singa
    SIO - A. schioetzi
    SJO - A. sjoestedti
    SPL - A. splendidum
    STR - A. striatum
    TAP - N. taeniopygus
    THI - Fundulosoma thierryi
    TOD - R. occidentalis toddi
    WAL - A. walkeri
    WER - A. werneri
    WHI - C. whitei
    XIP - Riv. xiphidius

List of Possibly Valid Names, or Synonyms
    ACU - E. acuticaudatus (SPI)
    AND - Aplo. andamanicus
    ANS - E. ansorgei
    BAU - E. baudoni
    BEA - A. beauforti
    BOU - E. boulengeri (MUF)
    BRI - N. brieni
    CAB - R. calabaricus (LIB)
    CAS - A. castaneum (SCH)
    COE - A. coeruleum (SJO)
    COG - A. cognatum
    DEC - A. decorsei
    DEF - E. grahami decemfasciatus (SPI)
    DOR - E. dorsalis (FAS)
    ELB - A. elberti (BUA)
    FAL - A. fallax
    GUS - A. gustavi (BEA)
    HOL - A. bivittatum hollyi (BIV)
    INF - E. infrafasciatus (SEX)
    JAC - A. jacobi (EXI)
    JAU - A. jaundense (EXI)
    KIY - Fundulosoma kiyawense
    LEO - E. sexfasciatus leonensis (FAS)
    LOB - A. loboanum (EXI)
    LOE - A. loennbergii (BIV)
    LOL - A. loloense (EXI)
    LUJ - A. lujae
    MAC - E. macrostigma
    MAG - A. margaretae
    MAR - E. marnoi (SPI)
    MAT - E. matlocki (FAS)
    MAY - N. mayeri
    MEI - A. meinkeni
    MEL - R. melanteron
    MEP - N. melanospilus
    MIC - A. microstomum (CAM)
    MUC - A. multicolor (BIV)
    NDE - E. ndelensis (BIF)
    NEU - N. neumanni
    NIG - A. nigerianum (GAR)
    NIM - E. nigromarginatus
    NUC - Pachypanchax nuchimaculatus (HOM)
    OBS - A. obscurum
    OGO - A. ogoensis
    OLB - E. chaperi olbrechtsi
    ORN - E. ornatus
    PAL - N. palmquisti
    PAP - A. pappenheimi (BIV)
    PAR - Aplo. parvus (BLO)
    PAT - N. patrizzi
    POL - A. polychromum (AUS)
    RIG - A. riggenbachi (BIV)
    RUF - A. rubrifascium (BUA)
    RUM - Aplo. rubrostigmus (LIN)
    RUR - N. rubroreticulatus
    RUS - A. rubrostictum (BIV)
    SAN - E. sangmelinensis
    SCH - A. schoutedeni
    SEN - E. senegalensis (SPI)
    SEY - N. seychellensis
    SIA - Aplo. panchax siamensis
    SPM - E. spillmanni (SHE)
    SPP - A. splendopleure (BIV)
    SPU - A. spurrelli (WAL)
    SRE - A. schreineri(BEA)
    STE - E. steindachneri (BIF)
    TAE - E. taeniatus (BIF)
    TES - A. tessmanni (BUA)
    TRO - N. troemneri (ORT)
    UNS - A. unistrigatum (BIV)
    VEX - A. vexillifer (CAL)
    ZIM - A. zimmeri
-- GCKA Newsletter, November 1997                    Return to top of page

Acclimatizing Your Fish – What's the Best Way?
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

        Sometimes the difference between health and success with our new killifish, or illness and swift death, lies with the way we acclimatize them to the particular conditions in our own fishrooms.
        No matter how carefully your new killifish have been packed and handled, they will have suffered a certain amount of stress on their trip to your tanks. This makes them more susceptible than usual to and pathogens or parasites they may encounter, whether from their home tanks or your own. Anything we can do to ease the transition into their new quarters is of benefit.
        How do other killikeepers manage this?
        Recently, Doug Karpa Wilson took an informal poll on the Killietalk mailing list, asking how people acclimated their new fish. Among the answers were the following.
        "We use silicone tubing with plastic valve to drip acclimate," replied R. Scott Page. "If we are receiving fish through the mail we add 1 ml Amquel per bag immediately upon receipt, otherwise we just drip acclimate. The contents of the bag are poured into a 1 gal. plastic pitcher, which is set into a 5 gal. bucket. The tubing is set to drip into the pitcher – slowly. If we neglect checking up on the process the pitcher overflows into the bucket. Jumpers also end up in the bucket this way. Usually the fish is acclimated in between 1-2 hours."
        "I use a pin-hole drip of tank water from a styrofoam cup into the container with the fish until the volume about equals three times the original volume," says Tom Payne. "A soda bottle with the top cut off to hold the styrofoam cup works well. This then gets floated in the tank 10 minutes before release. I learned the technique from a member of our club (G.C.K.A.) who raised beautiful fish with no air pumps and no filters, just water changes."
        First of all, check all incoming fish and tend to the ones that need help immediately, advises Monty Lehman. After conducting any emergency procedures, adjust the temperature, either by leaving them alone for a while, or by floating the bags in water of the appropriate temperature.
        "The best method of water acclimation that I have found," Monty continues, "is by drip tubes (adding the fish to an empty container and adding small amounts of your water over about a two hour period). Adjust the drip rate so you can count a drop every 1 to 2 seconds, and continue until you have doubled or tripled the amount of water they came in. After this you can increase the flow rate until you have a gallon or so of water. Then just set them up in the container you intend to keep them in."
        "I'd add another step," Joseph Ponnath says. Instead of moving the fish immediately from the gallon container into their final quarters, "I watch them for the next two weeks. Makes it much easier to see any problems" or provide treatment if required. Joe, who has extremely hard water with a high pH, also does daily water changes using water from the tank they will go into, to make certain their water stays the same. He then nets the fish out and places them in their new homes. "I try to have no original shipping water go into my tanks," Joe says. "I firmly believe that water chemistry difference will lead to all kinds of problems," so he takes steps to minimize any shocks.

• A small, clean cup of water added every 15 minutes or so is a good alternate method.
• A small amount of water conditioner added to the drip container often helps.
• Mark the containers right away with the ID of the fish. If you don't you'll be sorry sometime quite soon.
• Keep all containers covered, or use deep containers to prevent jumping.

        The bottom line, of course, is to adjust the fish slowly and carefully from the water they have been living in, to the water they will be living in. This reduces the potential for physiological damage, either from trauma or from the stress and shock of being handled and shipped, and of having to adjust to new water conditions. At the same time, a slow, careful acclimation that dilutes the water the new fish arrived in should also reduce the potential that an outside pathogen will be introduced into your clean tanks.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2000                     Return to top of page      

A Case for Dirty Water
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

        We've all heard the advice that regular partial water changes are the best way to keep our fish healthy, happy, and (hopefully) breeding. We're encouraged by the "experts" to change tank water regularly and often.
        But are there, perhaps, times when this advice is not wholly correct? when a certain amount of "benign neglect" may be beneficial?
        There is at least anecdotal evidence that for some species regular water changes may not be the best of advice.
        "I have [had] continued positive experience with dirty tanks and better egg recovery," says Charles Harrison. "Water changes every five to seven days, without disturbing the tank setting or removing much of the debris or disturbing the mops, has often resulted in more eggs. My cleanest, most pristine mops and tanks don't produce nearly the number of eggs and fry as do the more mature tanks, independent of size."
        "I have kept dwarf cichlids and know ... that when the water is changed every two weeks (30% change) this triggers ... the fish to spawn towards the end of this period," comments Nancy Graham.
        "I, too, have found 'dirty' tank conditions a boon to breeding fish and raising fry," observes Joe Gardner, who uses exclusively sponge filters in all his tanks. "I look at good mulm in the same fashion I regard good garden compost. It takes a while to cultivate but is worth the work and wait. I have found that with various killies, livebearers, cichlids and gobies, the fry hide in the mulm and find food [there]. It is important to continue to make water changes, but not to disturb the mulm very much."
        "It seems I get more eggs (consistently) out of tanks that are in need of cleaning than those that were just cleaned," observes Will Wasserman. "Does the polluted water cause an acceleration of egg production?"
        "Bob Earls up in Creemore, Ontario, used to start out with three or four trios [of SJO] in a 15 [gallon tank] and feed heavily," reports Richard Sexton. "The dirtier the water got, the more eggs he got." When the fish finally got sick, he'd change the water. "The fish would be fine, but they'd never lay another fertile egg. Not just the number of eggs, but the fertility was a function of filth. The dirtier the water, the more fertile the eggs."
        Ron Harlan speculated that there might be a chemical or hormonal trigger [in dirty water] that relates to fertility and egg production. From an evolutionary standpoint, this might make sense, since fish that laid many fertile eggs in an evaporating (i.e., more polluted) pond might be evolutionarily more successful simply by producing more fry and providing a greater chance for survival of the species.
        "One theory is that as the water gets dirtier, the pH drops, making it more acidic, which could also be the trigger the fish need to spawn," says John De Luca. "I have found that about 30% of the species I keep won't lay well until the water is dirty. I first discovered this by accident when ... I neglected my routine maintenance of my adult tanks ... and noticed that some fish that I classed as difficult had mops loaded with eggs. I have many friends who keep livebearers and they tell me that some of these fish prefer dirty water to produce fry. Another friend who successfully breeds discus .. has about an inch of mulm on the bottom of his breeding tanks."
        So perhaps a little debris in a functioning biological cycle is not a bad thing. A German writer some time ago applauded "clean dirt," a layer of mulm which he left on the tank bottom while changing water.
        "Don't clean the tanks so often," suggests Gunnar Asblom. "Dirty water as we think is maybe not bad for the fish. Use a filter and plants such as java moss and you don't have to clean the tanks, just change the water sometimes, but only 10-20% each time."
        Remember, too, that courting and spawning are variable behaviors, with any number of possible factors triggering them. It's been well observed that some newly arrived fish go into a spawning frenzy, while others may take a month or more to become adjusted before courting and laying eggs. Sometimes, too, fish simply "take a vacation," ceasing to spawn for no particular reason and then resuming again "when they feel like it." -

- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 1999 and March 2002                    Return to top of page

A Few Views on Killies and Ponds
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

        With winter here, perhaps it’s time to think about the outdoor aspect of our killifish hobby. Outdoors? Yes, outdoors.
        Killikeepers and killifish need not be confined to the temperature controlled confines of the fishroom. During the warm weather months, many species can spend their summers "on holiday" in patio ponds or tubs outside. Most killikeepers who had tried giving their killies a "summer vacation" report favorably on the practice.
        One immediate benefit is the easy availability of a variety of a live foods. Where there is water there will be bugs–mosquitoes and various insect larvae. This leads to better vigor and growth rates. This improved diet, coupled with the exposure to natural sunlight, results in better color.
        "I have kept killies out in ponds with varying degrees of success," says Klaus Schoening. "The Bluefin Killie (Lucania goodiae) and Fundulus notatus did great and I had bunches of both at the end of the summer."
        Cathy Carney puts her Aplocheilus lineatus in ponds 3x5x3 ft., with waterlilies, water lettuce, tropical hornwort, "the requisite frogs, tadpoles, snakes, and anything else that enjoys water." She regularly finds eggs on the roots of the water lettuce, and sees fry appearing in the pond. "I don’t do supplemental feeding once the fish are out–I have less than a dozen adults" in the pond, and no filtration. The only water change she does is the complete drainout at the end of summer. "It’s the only way I can catch the fish."
        She does find that she loses a lot of fry to predation by dragonfly nymphs, etc. And "this year … I have a major pond snail infestation. The only way I am getting fry at all is to move the water lettuce (with eggs) to another pond." Her water is well water, pH 7.4 to 7.8, 300 ppm GH. "The killies seem to thrive… [which] shows how adaptable they are."
        Amer Faour reports having put Cynolebias nigripinnis outside in spring of 1995. The fish survived throughout a very hot summer (up to 35°C [95°F]), and a very cold winter, with ice at the surface of the water. The fish were beautiful, big, active, and healthy. "The food is the best you can find, the fishes have a lot of space."
        Joe Richey reports that at one time he had a number of fiberglass square tubs, about 50-60 gallons. A couple of pairs of Fundulus notatus were placed in them and left alone. "With lots of cover they grew quickly and cleaned out the local insects."
        "I put two pair of Jordanella floridae (American Flagfish) in my 30 gallon patio pond this spring," reports Donna Recktenwalt. "As of mid September I had harvested a total of more than 50 fry from the pond, and from the tub where I had put the excess Tropical hornwort. I did have to drain the pond to recover the adults, however."
        Bob Meyer reports that he summers his killies outside, in a pond 9 feet in diameter and 1 foot deep. Due to predation, he has had very few killies successfully breed and mature, but the fry that he puts out in April "are magnificent in October. I find the best way to harvest them is to go out late at night with a flashlight. Most float near the surface asleep and are easy to net out."

-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2000                    Return to top of page

        Velvet is the common name given to a disease caused by any of several different species of dinoflagellates belonging to the genus Oodinium. These flagellated protozoans, present in all aquarium water, attach themselves to a host and feed in the cells of the skin, fins, and gills. They live on the host for 24-48 hours, then drop to the floor of the aquarium. Multiple cell divisions occur, producing daughter cells that swim to find a host. If the daughter cells don’t find a host they die within 24 hours.
        Methods to prevent velvet include the standard practices of avoiding stress, making regular water changes, monitoring temperature and diet, and avoiding overcrowding.
        "Velvet usually attacks weaker fish or those shocked by sudden changes in conditions," points out Wright Huntley. Healthy fish may carry a few of the parasites and never show symptoms until stressed. Even in ill fish, the disease may not be obvious: some minor clamped fins, a slight "hovering" behavior, perhaps some dusty or cloudy coloration on the skin. In extremely parasitized fish, the disease is much more obvious: an overall cast of gray or dusty gold and an obvious appearance of ill health.
        Some research indicates that salt in the water will help prevent the daughter cells of Oodinium from becoming free swimming; 1/2-1 tsp. salt per gallon is considered adequate to kill the protozoans after they have detached from the host. This level of salt also reduces the duration of the adult stage on the fish. The salt concentration may be boosted up to 3 tsp. gallon, adding 1 tsp. per gallon per day over three days.
        Brian Watters says that the most effective cure for velvet he has found is "Velvet Guard" by Jungle Products. This is especially effective if you can diagnose the velvet at an early stage. Once there is a heavy infestation it is more difficult to eradicate. "As soon as I see signs of velvet, I immediately medicate the tank and stop feeding the fish for a couple of days. I then change 60-70% of the water and medicate again." He then begins to feed lightly and repeats water changes and medication as required.
        The use of formaldehyde has also proven useful, although the pH will drop suddenly. The fish can adapt quickly to this, but the protozoans and hydra cannot. Acriflavin and Malachite green will also work.
        "If the water is clean, fresh, and well aerated," says Wright, "the simplest treatment is to raise the temperature to 93-94°F for 24-36 hours." Heat speeds up the normal life cycle of the parasite without stressing the fish as much. Quinine sulfate, quinine hydrochloride, and copper sulfate are also effective, but can kill snails and plants. Use carefully and exactly as directed.
        For heavily infested fish, a dip treatment may be useful. The fish is submerged in the concentrated salt or copper bath until it becomes acutely distressed, gasping at the surface, then is removed to a medicated tank.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2000                    Return to top of page

        Many aquarists have found that using a "natural" killifish setup (a tank filled with plants such as Java moss, Watersprite, etc., and several pairs of fish) results in better fry production with less work, but some aquarists have taken the practice a step further.
        Here’s a suggestion that a number of breeders have found useful. Go to a craft store and purchase the plastic mesh used for needlepoint. It comes in varying grades of stiffness; the stiffer the better. This plastic "grating" material is inexpensive, easily cut to size, and makes excellent tank dividers and breeder containment structures. Its open weave allows good water flow-through, so all parts of the tank benefit from filtration, and small fry can easily swim through the mesh, while their parents can’t.
        If you place the tank with the short end towards the light and the parents in the back, "dark" compartment, the phototrophic fry will go through the mesh toward the light and safety, away from their parents. If the front of the tank is planted, the fry will find sufficient food to sustain them until being removed to different quarters.
Other breeders prefer to put two dividers in the tank, keeping a breeding pair of killifish in the center, planted, section. Fry would then migrate to either end of the tank for later collection.
- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 1999                    Return to top of page

Another Water Source – Dehumidifiers?
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

A Primer on Peat Moss
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

        Peat moss is a staple ingredient of our hobby - as most killikeepers are well aware. But just what is peat - other than a water treatment/ acidifier and a cushioning and antibacterial storage media for killi eggs?
       Peat is the partially decayed, moisture absorbing plant matter found in ancient bogs and swamps. Given sufficient geologic time and pressure, peat will eventually turn into coal.
        Peat is generally available in three forms, all usable by aquarists, and all generally available at garden supply centers.
        Fibrous peat moss is the coarsest type available. It has broken down very little from its original state before being collected, dried and packaged. Fibrous peat is used by florists to camouflage the soil around potted plants. Aquarists use it as a spawning medium for plant spawning fish.
        Sphagnum peat has decayed considerably before being harvested, and consists of a mixture of coarser stuff mixed in with a good deal of finer, powdery material. It works well as a spawning medium or substrate, although the fine particles can cloud the water.
        Peat pellets are fine peat that has been compacted into a "wafer," which when wet will expand sufficiently to support a seedling plant. One pellet can provide enough peat for a pair of small to medium sized annual fish that prefer a finer, mud-like spawning medium. Since peat pellets were designed for the nursery trade, they come with or without plastic netting to help hold their shape, and with or without added fungicides and fertilizers. Be very careful what you buy, and read labels carefully. Jiffy brand #690 (without plastic netting) and #703 (with netting) are supposedly additive free.
        Readying peat for aquatic use consists of no more than boiling it well to drive out the air so it will sink. After cooling, it can be rinsed to remove the finer particles. Peat pellets can be microwaved in a cup of water (being certain to remove any plastic netting first), then rinsed in a net before use.
        The prepared peat may be used immediately, or stored for later use.
        The author squeezes out the excess liquid and stores the peat damp in a screw-top glass jar until needed. For larger amounts, Oleg Kiselev suggests using a 5-gallon bucket with the airlift on a small hex undergravel filter maintaining circulation. This keeps the peat sweet and provides a ready supply of "black water" as well.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 1996                    Return to top of page

Alternate Aquaria ... There's a wealth of opportunity out there 
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

a-q-uar-i-um 1. a container (as a glass bowl) or an artificial pond in which living aquatic animals or plants are kept. 2: an establishment where such aquatic collections are kept or exhibited. (Webster's Seventh new Collegiate Dictionary)

        Most of us still think of aquariums as basically rectangular glass or acrylic constructions that may vary in size from a couple of gallons to a hundred or more. But aquarists aren't limited to containers of these accepted definitions. Many others - some originally designed for quite different uses - can be used to hatch, raise, maintain, and breed fish.
       Plastic containers - shoe, sweater, and storage boxes - work very well as aquaria and are growing in popularity for everything from wetting peat to raising fry and serving as breeding tanks. Light, strong, resilient and easy to clean and handle, they can easily house small breeding colonies or lots of fry. To keep track of what is where, try using small stick-on labels on the containers, or keep a diagram. These containers are relatively inexpen-sive and are designed to stack neatly when not in use, making for more efficient use of limited space.
        Styrofoam. We usually think of this material as shipping boxes, but styrofoam containers (often used for shipment of foodstuffs or medications, as well as for picnic coolers) can work well as aquaria, too. Fill with water and appropriate plants, then cover with a screen (to keep the fish in and curious children and pets out). Be sure to test carefully for leaks (some styrofoam is not completely water tight), and wash well before use.
        Fiberglass tubs and boxes are sturdy, durable and easy to clean. if desired, a "window" can be cut in one side and glass or clear plastic installed using on the inside using silicone sealer. Plywood tanks can be a practical alternative for those requiring larger capacities. One-half or three-quarter inch marine plywood can be assembled with screws or screwable nails, then the inside coated with two to three coats of marine paint or polyester resin. A "window" can easily be added. These wooden tanks are not recommended for plecos, which tend to eat the resin coating, then the wood beneath. Every couple of years wooden tanks should be emptied and the surfaces checked, then recoated if necessary.

Other Possibilities
        Children's wading pools. Inexpensive and easily available, these can serve very well for daphnia ponds and similar uses, but are ultimately subject to breakdown from ultraviolet light.
       Plastic laundry baskets. Lined with a layer or two of 1-2 mil plastic, these can work quite well as aquaria. Range them along sturdy shelves or set them on the basement or patio floor, then throw in a mass of java or sphagnum moss (the coarse kind, not peat), and add fish. Some aquarists put a breeding pair in each container and leave them alone, except when feeding or harvesting fry.
        Watering troughs. These steel, heavy plastic or rubber containers may cost more than some of the other alternatives, but you get the benefits of high volume coupled with high durability. The steel ones will dent, and eventually rust, but the plastics are resilient, and there are no concerns about toxins or breakdown due to ultraviolet light.
        Bathtubs, refrigerator/freezer liners and the like are sometimes available and can be fairly easily adapted for aquatic use. Simply plug the holes with glass and silicone sealant and add a "window" if you like. These are durable, and highly functional.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter - November 1996                    Return to top of page

A Rose is a Rose ... or
Must We Use Those Latin Names?
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

        In a word, yes. The answer has nothing to do with elitism, and everything to do with precision.
        Newcomers to the aquatic hobby often bewail the fact that we use latin names, but any time you move beyond the most basic beginner level in the hobby, you will find the technical (latin) names in use at club meetings and auctions, among dedicated hobbyists, by the wholesalers, and by the scientific community.
        Before you begin to complain that species names are too long, too complex, and too difficult to pronounce (and some of them are real tongue-twisters), consider this: It is an inherent human behavior to "name" the things in our environment. If we all spoke the same language, this would be little problem. But my "big brown fish that lives in the shallows" might be called "toothy fish that lives in the mud" by my neighbor across the river. Same fish, different name. Multiply this by the number of languages and dialects in the geographic range of any given species, then by the number of different species that may inhabit a biotype, and you can begin to see the problem.
        Carolus Linnaeus saw it too, back in 1758, and proposed a system of binomial nomenclature that remains in worldwide use today. By precisely identifying any discovered, described organism, Linnaeus' taxonomic invention provided clarity to the literate/scientific community of his day. With refinements it does so still.
        The first word of the two (or more) part scientific name indicates the genus to which an organism belongs, based upon a group of attributes commonly shared; the second part denotes the species, a group of individuals potentially capable of interbreeding. By using scientific names anyonebe he a lepidopterist, a gardener, an orchid keeper, or an aquaristknows exactly what animal or plant is being discussed, no matter the country they are in or the language they speak.
        Scientific names utilize both Latin and Greek roots, since these languages were common to all learned men in the western world of Linnaeus' time.
        In many cases, the genus name is descriptive. Mustela, the genus for weasels, comes from the Latin mus and telos, meaning "a mouse like a spear."
        The second name may be descriptive; it may honor an individual by using a latinized version of a proper name; or it may reflect the namer's sense of humor. Cynolebias nigripinnis derives from the Greek kyon (dog) lebias (small fish), niger (black) and pinna (fin). Numerous species are named after the Drs. Axelrod and Jubb (axelrodi or jubbi); and more recently there has been Agra vation, a ground beetle whimsically named by Terry Erwin of the Smithsonian.
        In printed usage, the entire scientific name is usually shown in italics, with the first name capitalized and the second in lower case, as in Aphyosemion australe. When more than one reference is made to the same genus, the genus name is often abbreviated, thus A. australe.
        But an angelfish is an angelfish, you argue; a platy is a platy, a guppy is a guppy- even though they may now come in a wide variety of named colors and patterns. Why isn't a killifish just a killifish?
        It's a matter of genera.
        All angelfish belong to the genus Pterophyllum, either scalare or altum; only devoted breeders need worry about the difference. Likewise platies are all Xiphophorus variatus, X. maculatus, or hybrids of both. Guppies are all Poecilia reticulata, whatever their color pattern or finnage.
        Killikeepers and cichlid fanciers are dealing not with varieties of a single species, but with a number of related families (genera) of fish, each with numerous species.
        To complicate the issue further, both killi- and cichlid fanciers may also append location and collection data to the scientific names. Thus killikeepers encounter such names as Aphyosemion striatum Lambarene, or Nothobranchius eggersi Rufiji River Camp TAN 95/7 (Red).
        Although a long name seems confusing, the extra information exists for a reason. As Gary Elson has said, "There's a lot in a name, even if the name seems inordinately long. ... When I look at a killie I see beauty, but when I look at the name of a killie, I see a little bit of the history."
        In the case of N. eggersi, mentioned above, several collections of the species were made at different sites and at different times. Although appearing to be the same species, the fish may or may not be closely related; only further scientific study will determine that. The appended information codes allow breeders to maintain strains separately until such determinations are made.
        If appended information consists of a single proper name (such as Lambarene or Ngabu), it usually refers to a collection site or village name.
        Letter and number addenda are usually assigned by collectors in the field, and correlate with their maps and field notes. Thus we have the code shown above: Rufiji River Camp TAN 95/7 (Red). This indicates the collection site location (Rufiji River Camp), the country (TANzania), the year (1995), the number of the collection site (7), and the color type of the collected fish (Red). Other collection sites resulted in N. eggersi in the red form, a blue form, and some individuals of each.
        Also included in the addenda is color variety information, or strains bred from an original species, for example A. australe Chocolate or Aplocheilus lineatus Gold.
        Since the taxonomy of killifish is constantly evolving, it is of great importance to retain all of the collection and varietal information for a species. Species names, even family names, may change over time as scientists learn more about their interrelationships. In addition, some fish have been collected, described and named by more than one researcher. This results in the same species having several synonymous names, a confusion that is perpetuated by out of date publications, but clarified by subsequent research.
        A number of articles have appeared in aquarium publications attempting to clarify the taxonomic groupings of the killifish family, among them "Fundulopanchax: An Overview," by Gregory J. Niedzielski and David A. Franco, and "A Fundulopanchax timeline," compiled by Brent D. Kelley. Both appeared in the Journal of the American Killifish Association (JAKA), September-December 1995, and provide a comprehensive overview of that family and how its naming has changed. Brian Watters' compilation "The Status of Nothobranchius Species Populations in the HobbyPast and Present" on the AKA web page (http://www.aka.org) and in the Notho section of the Gallery provides a good perspective on the Nothos. Numerous other articles exist in both the commercial and the scientific literature.
        There are also a number of books available that provide excellent, if not always completely up to date, information. Recommended are Roger Langton's Wild Collections, which documents the recorded information about collections and explains the naming conventions; Killi-data '96 by Jean Huber; Rivulins of the Old World, by Gordon Scheel; Killifish Master Index by Ken Lazara; and for a more general coverage of fish classification, William Eschmeyer's Catalog of the Genera of Recent Fishes. Most of these volumes are available through specialty aquatic bookstores; many are available through the AKA.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 1997                    Return to top of page

Back to Basics …
The Beginning Killikeeper
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

        If you’re just beginning to keep killifish, the things you don’t know may seem overwhelming. But remember, all of us were beginners once. We’ve all made (and still make) our share of mistakes, and once in a while it doesn’t hurt to review some of the basics, even for the experts.
        If you’re interested in killifish, you probably already have some experience with fishkeeping. You know about the importance of maintaining good water quality through filtration and frequent water changes, about the necessity for a varied diet and good nutrition, and about not mixing species that are incompatible, whether due to temperament or to maintenance requirements.
        Most killifish aren’t really all that difficult. In general, give them sufficient room, sufficient cover for comfort and spawning, sufficient food, and good enough water and they’ll do just fine.

General Maintenance
        One of the advantages of killies, of course, is that most of them are fairly small, thus don’t require large tanks to be happy. Five- and ten-gallon tanks are common, with some species happy in even smaller quarters.
Water?
        Most species will do quite well in well-seasoned or dechlorinated ordinary tap water. Aquarists who are raising fussier species, or whose water is particularly hard, may use Reverse Osmosis water or rainwater to temper their primary water source.
Plants and Lighting?
        You can use plants if you like, or not; have brightly lit tanks, or not. Killifish generally like some shade or cover, but they don’t seem to be particular. Some killikeepers use bright lighting, some very little; some have nothing in their tanks but yarn mops, others use plants extensively. Among the favorites are Java moss, Tropical hornwort, and Najas Grass, with Java Fern, the Anubias, and a number of the floating plants, such as Salvinia, Riccia, and Duckweed, also common.
Filtration?
        Again, it’s up to the individual and his or her personal situation and preferences. Some killikeepers insist on filtration, with air-driven sponge filters generally the preferred type, although outside filters are also common. Some killikeepers use no filtration at all and their fish do just fine on regular partial water changes.
Heating?
            Most species do quite well in the normal household temperature range of 65-75°F. There are, of course, some species that can tolerate much colder temperatures, and some that insist on higher ones. Use your own situation to dictate which species you might keep, or plan to supplement the heating.
Feeding?
        Killifish will do quite nicely on nothing more exciting than dry flake food. However, they will do better and will breed more freely if given a wide variety in their diet, preferably including live foods. Commercial choices include flake, pellet, freeze-dried, and frozen foods of many kinds. You can also make your own paste foods, or culture or collect your own live foods.

Breeding Killifish
        Ask any experienced aquarist, and you’ll hear the same thing: the aquarist doesn’t breed the fish, he or she simply provides suitable conditions, and the fish then breed freely (or not …). Many killifish are easy to breed – put a pair together and fry are inevitable. Other species are next to impossible even for the experienced aquarists among us. Breeding strategies fall into two basic types: the plant-spawners (such as the Aphyosemion and the Fundulopanchax species, for example) and the mud-spawners (Cynolebias and Nothobranchius, among others).
        The plant-spawners lay their eggs among the plant matter in their environment – underwater roots, fine-leafed floating plants, or the human-provided substitute, floating yarn mops. The eggs may then be hand picked for incubation in separate containers either in water or on wet peat, the adult fish may be removed, or the eggs left on the mops and the mops removed. The simplest breeding method is to place the adults in a heavily planted tank, feed them well, and simply let nature take its course. For species that prey on their young, the resulting fry are removed by the aquarist as they appear.
        The mud-spawners prefer to spawn on or in the bottom, among the mud and decaying plant matter. Fine peat moss is the usual aquarium substitute. After a week of spawning, the peat is removed, the excess water squeezed out, and the resulting material stored for a time appropriate to the species. After incubation, the peat is then flooded with water, and if all has gone well, the fry hatch.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2000                    Return to top of page

Back to Basics ...
Planning the Fishroom
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

        You've decided that it's time to build (or to redesign) your fishroom.
        It's an exciting, and daunting, prospect. But before you get carried away, let's review some of the basics.
        By definition, a fishroom is a place where you keep and maintain fish. It may be as simple as a couple of tanks in the corner of the living room, or as complex as a room (or even a separate building) specifically designed for aquatic use.
        What do you need for a fishroom? The same things you need for a single aquarium. A location. Tanks and stands. A supply of clean water and a place to dispose of dirty water. Some way to keep the water clean. Power for lights and pumps. A place for storage.

The Location
        Location of the fishroom is important. You want it to be easily accessible so you will spend time there feeding and observing your fish and doing maintenance chores. At the same time, you don't want it to endure excessive traffic, noise, or pollutants, such as cooking and chemical odors.
        However, a fishroom may be located anywhere, assuming that it meets a few basic criteria.
        Flooring must be durable enough to contend with water spills and rough treatment, and strong enough to bear the combined weight of all the tanks, stands, and water. If your floor is a concrete slab, this is no problem; if you're planning to put the fishroom on wooden flooring laid over joists, you may have to carefully consider both the total weight and its proper distribution; free standing floors are designed to bear specific maximum weight loads. Study the area you plan to use and check your local building codes to determine what extra supports you may need to add.
        Temperatures. The average temperatures in the fishroom must be neither excessively cool nor hot. They should lie within ranges tolerable to the fish, and be easily warmed or cooled as needed. In some cases, this may require the use of an air conditioner or supplemental heat, or the addition of insulation or ventilation.

Tanks and Stands
        Tanks may be whatever you can build, buy, or otherwise acquire. Having tanks in uniform sizes and capacities may make stand design or usage more efficient, but is not necessary.
        Whatever tanks you use, you'll need strong stands to hold them and their contents of water, gravel, plants, fish and decorations, stands that are wide enough to utilize the length of lights you plan to use, deep enough to properly support the tanks, and tall enough to allow you adequate working room for catching fish, changing water, and tank maintenance.
        If you're handy, you can build your own stands from 2x4 lumber or from cinder blocks and 2x12s. The commercial heavy duty stands sold at lumber yards are strong enough to bear the weight, come in 3- and 4-foot lengths, and can be grouped together to produce longer units.
        Both vertical and stepped designs are possible, usually with the smaller tanks at the top and the larger ones at the bottom. Tanks may be side by side or "ends out," to maximize use of available space. Individual shelf height is dependent on the size of the tanks, the lighting arrangement, and your own working "comfort zone".

Water, Filtering, and Heating Systems
        The water. We're less concerned here with what kind of water you have than how you will get it to and from your tanks. For smaller fishrooms, aging and moving water using buckets or plastic jugs may be adequate. For larger fishrooms buckets may prove utterly impractical, and the use of large heavy duty plastic or fiberglass containers may better serve for water storage, with delivery accomplished via hose and submersible pump.
        Some larger fishrooms use centralized water systems that automatically provide fresh or filtered water, and remove waste. Although such systems are more costly and time-consuming to install, they generally result in cleaner tanks with less work. On the downside, all tanks on a system share the same water at similar temperatures, the same chemistry, and in the case of disease, exposure to the same pathogens.
        The filtering system. There are two basic types of filtering systems for fishrooms: central systems, and distributed systems.
        A central filtering system utilizes a single pump and filter to process all the water from a series of connected tanks. Central filtering eliminates the need for individual tank filters and heaters, thus reducing maintenance time. It does require a better, more complex, high volume filter, a water pump, and PVC or similar piping for water distribution and collection. It may or may not require drilling the tanks, a tricky proposition. For use with air, PVC piping may simply be friction fitted; for use with water, gluing with proper adhesive is essential.
        A distributed filtering system utilizes individual filters for each tank, all of them driven from a centralized air pump or pumps that feed the system using PVC pipe or airline tubing. With this system, the fishkeeper can use airstones or any of the various types of air driven filters--undergravel, box, or sponge. A central air supply requires a large air pump(s), an air compressor, or an air blower. Large air pumps can run up to 30 tanks or so, depending on size, and are fairly quiet. Air compressors drive small volumes of air at high pressure (measured in pounds per square inch [PSI]). Air blowers provide a large volume of air at low pressure (measured in cubic feet per minute [CFM]).
        Heating. If you're using a central filtering system, you can install a heater in the filter sump or the supply tank to heat the water for the entire system, but not all tanks will be exactly the same temperature. Especially in larger systems, tanks at the far end of the delivery line may be somewhat cooler. Alternatively, the room can be heated, or you can use individual tank heaters as needed.

The Power Supply and Lighting
        Whatever your fishroom plans may be, you will need power, for electricity will drive many of the systems, from lights to pumps to heaters. Most circuits can manage at least 15 amps of power and a small fishroom will seldom require more than this. Be certain to always follow the basic rules for electrical safety; installation of a ground fault interrupt plug is highly recommended.
        Although most of us manage with what we have or can scrounge, general agreement if you're starting from scratch is that 4-foot long, two tube commercial fluorescent fixtures ("shop lights") are the most economical bet. They're inexpensive (sometimes even free) and widely available. Standard fluorescent bulbs work quite well for aquaria, but you can replace them with other types if you like. Smaller sizes of fluorescent fixtures are also available, but are more expensive.
        To simplify operation, be sure to include an automatic timer in the system if at all possible.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 1998                    Return to top of page

Back to Basics ...
What Filter Do I Need?
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

Why filter?
        The "why" is simple. Filters clean the water, reduce toxic solubles, exercise the fish, and reduce maintenance time. That’s sufficient reason to use filtration in your aquaria, but even the best systems are only a pale imitation of what occurs in nature. The natural hydrological cycle evaporates water from the seas and lakes and releases it as rain, which filters through soil and rocks, then forms ponds and streams that eventually flow back to the sea. Recreating this cycle, even in small part, benefits the inhabitants of our aquaria.
        But what is the best system? That depends on your aquaria and its needs.
        In aquaria, filtration follows a pattern similar to that in nature, but on a much smaller scale. Water evaporates from the surface and must be replaced. The remaining water is cleaned by drawing it through filter media where colonizing bacteria help clear it of toxins and residues. Living plants also help utilize waste- and by-products produced by the fish.
        This waste, otherwise known as mulm, is a particulate sludge that sinks to the bottom of the tank and the filters. It is not wholly detrimental, since it contains bacteria that aid in the breakdown of nitrite and ammonia, but it is unsightly and contributes to cloudiness. Undergravel filters tend to pull this mulm down into the gravel, where it is further broken down.
        The box filter is, perhaps, the most simplified version of the natural hydrological cycle. Mulm is trapped inside the box filter by the foam or polyester floss. Gravel or carbon can also be used in the filters, and the entire structure can easily be removed for cleaning.
        Simple air-driven foam filters are ideal for breeding tanks. Fry are not drawn into the filter and the mulm collected on the surface of the foam develops a layer of bacteria and infusoria on which the fry feed.
        Power filters are the most useful for cleaning water, with both internal and external designs available. Internal filters are unobtrusive and silent and contain a foam insert that is easy to clean. Carbon can also be added, or ceramic filter material. External power filters are more powerful, producing up to a twice per hour throughput, and require less maintenance. Flow rates vary, depending on the type of filter material used. External filters are often houseed beneath the aquarium, so must lift against the head of water above them. The ideal situation is to have the filter placed beside the aquarium. A downside to power filters is noise. Since the impeller gradually wears the chamber, an annoying rattle can develop with age.
        For perfectly clear water, the filter media should filter down to one micron in size, or less. Diatomaceous earth (the silica shells of microscopic animals) is ideal for this. However, diatom filters clog rapidly and require cleaning within an hour or so. They are thus best suited for occasional use as polishing filters. Since they are also expensive, private purchase is often not practical; some clubs have purchased a unit and circulated it among the members.
        Most species of fish enjoy water flow and actually swim in the output of the power filters. A stillwater area is recommended, however, and is easily arranged by the use of a few rocks or a flowerpot on its side.
        The secret of success with any filtering system is regular cleaning and making certain that the unit is level so water flows properly.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February 1999                    Return to top of page

Beginner? Advanced? Expert Aquarist?
Where Do You Fall?

        We’re all continually learning in this hobby.
        People of all skill levels and interests keep fish. We do, however, fall into several loose classifications, defined by our level of interest, our degree of knowledge and expertise, and our level of activity, both with our own fish and in the hobby as a whole. Amateur aquarists range from those who have simply decided that they want to keep an aquarium to the most highly skilled breeders of "impossible" species. And someone who is considred an expert in one area may be a rank beginner in another.
        All aquarists, however, seem to move through a definable series or stages of development, as they learn to deal with new techniques, new equipment, new fish.
Which stage are you in?

The Beginner
        "Beginner" is a broad stage, marked by a number of quit/don’t quit crises. The beginner has decided that he wants to keep fish; has bought equipment and fish; set up the aquarium, filled it with water and put in the fish. The beginner stage is traditionally plagued by reactionary effort, with problems becoming critical before even being noticed. The new fish are soon dying, or he’s faced with the problems of leaky tanks and malfunctioning equipment. At this stage he may 1) quit, with the tank ending up in a garage sale; or 2) he may not quit, learning from the experience and moving on, to try again.
        If the beginner doesn’t become too discouraged, he starts to become more observant, paying more attention to the fish and their environment. He begins to seek out information, to read and to learn more about his new hobby. Soon he can keep hardy fish alive, and perhaps even begin to breed a few of the easier livebearer species, such as guppys or mollies. He still faces regular crises of disease and panic (quit), but he’s trying hard (don’t quit). Even so, quitting is still a very real possibility. A good many people never get past this stage.
        Slowly, however, the learning beginner starts to gain confidence. The first major indicator of achievement is reached when he buys a fish "costing more than a dollar." Soon regular water changes become part of the routine, and both the fish and the tank are usually disease-free. But disaster can - and usually does - still strike. When it does, the budding aquarist usually either gives up completely (quit), or moves on to the next stage (don’t quit).

The Novice
        Most hobbyists, by definition, are at the novice, or intermediate level, but this stage can include a wide range of interest levels and abilities. Some hobbyists never move beyond the beginning of this stage, and are simply content to kep a pretty aquarium. They have minimal interaction with other hobbyists, often because they don’t know of any others, or of local groups. Most of their expertise still comes from their local dealer.
        More advanced hobbyists often do not consider individuals at this level of activity to be true hobbyists.
        The amateur aquarist may begin to add books to his own personal aquatic library, even as he gains from his own personal experiences and his growing interactions with others. He may rapidly proceed to a more skilled level, and begin to encounter the "two opposite answers to the same question" problem, but only after a good deal more experience will he develop enough to benefit from such conflicting information. The hobbyist also begins to add tools to his arsenal: water test kits, microscopes, etc.
        The novice level can be characterized by a number of definable stages, but the progression is not linear. Any aquarist may be in any of the following stage(s) at any given time.
        Expansion - Will a tank fit there? Will that shelf, that piece of furniture hold an aquarium? In advanced cases, plans for fishrooms blossom and spouses cringe as sketches fly and hammer and nails compete with saw and wood shavings.
        Latinate - The hobbyist begins to recognize and to use proper scientific names; he stops calling a cichlid a chicklid. The uninitiated around such a budding aquarist can be easily convinced that the hobbyist knows more than he really does.
        Joiner - This is usually triggered by a growing need to have others to talk to about the hobby. A great deal of education can occur at this stage, along with a great deal of confusion, since conflicting information may be forthcoming on any given topic.
        "Catch ‘em or Grow ‘em" - Suddenly the simple maintenance of fish in an aquarium isn’t quite enough. The aquarist begins to want to feed live foods, and to catch or to grow both foods and fish. Caution is required during this stage, since long periods of fish madness or an escaped or soured food culture can drive a spouse to issue ultimatums.
         Local Guru - The hobbyist is usually fairly advanced in knowledge by this point, and begins to be asked to lecture at meetings. He’s also liable to receive phone calls at odd hours asking him to help solve other aquarist’s problems.
        Growth and Specialty - Bigger is better; smaller tanks are replaced by bigger ones, increasing the danger to fingers and toes. The hobbyist begins to take due or undue pride in a single fish or species of fish, and often begins to enter his fish in shows. Specialization in a particular group of fishes, such as angelfish, catfishes or killifish may occur.

The Advanced Aquarist
        This is about as far as one can go and remain a hobbyist. Basic construction skills - carpentry, plumbing, electrical work - have all been mastered during construction of the fishroom. Numerous errors of management and judgement have been made and overcome. The fish are spawning readily and the fry are being sold.
        The line between hobbyist and professional begins, imperceptibly, to blur.
        Some willingly and successfully make the transition beyond hobbyist status.
        The vast majority of us are content to simply breed the best fish we can, to share our knowledge, to assist others in their learning experiences, and to enjoy this hobby that couples a great deal of visual and psychological pleasure with a little bit of biology, a little genetics, and a little ecology.
        Did you find yourself desscribed above? If you’re enjoying the hobby, does it really matter?

References:
Hemdal, Jay, "The Making of a Hobbyist," Aquarium Fish Magazine, October 1990, pp. 39-47.
Mortensen, Jim, "If I Had Only Known," Freshwater and Marine Aquarium, April 1986, pp. 32-34

- GCK Newsletter, December 1997                    Return to top of page

Burnout!
By Donna M. Recktenwalt 

A Few Suggestions …
        "The best number of species to keep is different for everyone," Lou points out, "but here are some ‘rules of thumb’ that I use to keep exhaustion to a minimum:"
        1. Keep the fish biomass low; don’t overpopulate your tanks.
        2. Feed live foods as often as possible, but feed flake food daily for ease of feeding and variety.
        3. Use plants such as Java moss and water sprite to keep nitrates and nitrites low and to provide shelter. Use snails to keep things clean.
        4. Establish natural breeding setups whenever possible.
        5. Organize the fishroom for minimal effort.
        6. Watch your expenses! Do without special things; improvise.
        7. Occasionally find a fish you really like, that is rare, or that hasn’t been heard of in a while. Concentrate on succeeding with this fish.
        8. Try to buy two or three pairs of the same species to avoid "widows and orphans." Share some of the fry with a friend, so you’ll have "spares" in case of disaster.
        9. Cut back severely if you get burned out; take a break. "Maybe you need a good nine-month diapause?" suggests Lou. "If so, specialize in a few of the longer-cycling annuals and use your exhaustion to your advantage with the longer incubation times."
        10. Don’t become a monomaniac. Develop interests other than killies to keep things in balance!

References:  Viega, Lou. "Killie Burnout: Musings on the Internet–Part One." Killie Dirt, September/October 1997, Volume IV Number 5, pp. 10-11.
Davis, Scott. "Killie Burnout: Musings on the Internet–Part Two." Killie Dirt, September/October 1997, Volume IV Number 5, pp. 11-12.
Wiley, Melanie. "Burn Out!" Exclusively Killies Newsletter, March 1999.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2000                    Return to top of page

Carbonate Hardness

        A term that is readily recognized by most aquarists is "carbonate hardness." But what, exactly, does it mean?
        Carbonate hardness is the result of contact between water (H2O) containing carbon dioxide (CO2) and lime or chalk (CaCO3). Carbon dioxide reduces calcium carbonate to calcium hydrogen carbonate, which imparts carbonate hardness to nearly all fresh waters. In salt lakes, carbonate hardness is partially due to sodium hydrogen carbonate (NaHCO3 ). Many municipal waterworks add chalk or lime to the extremely soft water to prevent corrosion of piping.
        The pH value of aquarium water is determined by the ratio of carbonate hardness and carbon dioxide. In most natural waters, the overall hardness consists mostly of carbonate hardness; when it is high, so is pH. When breeding fish, carbonate hardness influences egg maturation, embryo hatching, and the well being of the fry.
        Many species have become adjusted to their particular water conditions; under certain conditions, some plants can even utilize carbonate ions as a substitute for CO2. This biogenic declassification can reduce the carbonate hardness of an aquarium over time.
        The usual form of nitrate seen in aquaria is nitric acid; this, too can absorb carbonate hardness. If the nitrate content of the water increases by 22 mg/l, carbonate hardness will be reduced by 1 dKH. In extreme instances, this process can lead to acid fall, a drop in pH so severe that the fish die.
        In tanks with good biological filtration, the pH usually remains quite stable, since denitrification daily removes the same amount of nitrate that is present.
        Carbonate hardness can also be formed in the aquarium. Carbon dioxide fertilizers can dissolve chalk which is present in the substrate or decorations, increasing the hardness. The simplest way of increasing the carbonate hardness is to dissolve sodium hydrogen carbonate (NaHCO3 ), more commonly known as bicarbonate of soda, or baking powder. A heaped teaspoon in 100 liters of water increases the carbonate hardness by 3.3 dH. This should not be used in extremely soft water, since bicarbonate of soda contains neither calcium nor magnesium.
        Reducing carbonate hardness is most simply accomplished by dilution with distilled or fully desalinated (RO) water, or by filtering the water through peat. Using peat in an aquarium filter for several weeks or more, however, may have the reverse effect, since the material biologically decomposes and releases large amounts of minerals.

References:
Kassebeer, Dr. Gerd. "An Analytical Course for Aquarists," Part III, Carbonate hardness of the aquarium water.
     Today's Aquarium, April 1986.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 1998                    Return to top of page

Cleaning Aquaria
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

        Cleanliness in our aquaria - the homes for the fish we keep - is an important aspect of fishkeeping.
        We all know that.
        Normal cleanliness, of course, varies from fishroom to fishroom and tank to tank, but usually involves such regular maintenance as wiping down the glass and lids, changing or rinsing out filter media, and doing regular partial water changes. All of these procedures are designed to keep our finned charges healthy and relatively happy.
        Cleanliness varies, too, depending on the intended use of particular aquaria. Cleanliness in an established community tank, for example, may not be adequate for a breeding tank, or one used for rearing fry.
        But what cleaning agents can you use to really clean and disinfect a tank after disease has gained a hold, for instance, or when first setting up equipment long unused, or from another source?
        Several effective cleaning/disinfecting agents suitable for aquatic use are available in many homes, including salt, household bleach, hydrogen peroxide, and clear ammonia. Other, less common but equally effective cleaning agents are ethyl alcohol and potassium permanganate. Each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.
        Whatever cleaning agent you use, be sure to wash down everything that is used in and around the tank. Not only the tank itself, to and including the rim, the sides and the cover, but also the filter and filter box and all intake and outflow tubing, both air and water. At the same time it's a good idea to clean nets, temporary containers for fish or food, algae scrapers, and anything else that is used in and around your tanks on which pathogens could hitch a ride from diseased to healthy fish or tanks. This list can also include the plants, the gravel, and other fish.
        Herewith, a brief overview of several cleaning agents.
        Salt is perhaps the most commonly used cleaning agent for aquaria and related items. Incoming plants can be soaked in a salt solution to effectively kill or weaken a major proportion of unwanted "visitors" that sometimes sneak in among the leaves or roots. Poured on a damp rag, salt will scour and polish tank glass. Salt rinses away cleanly, although minor residual amounts will benefit most killifish.
        Common household bleach (5% sodium hypochloriteClorox or its generic equivalent) does a fine job of disinfecting aquaria and related equipment. For most uses a mixture of 1 cup bleach per gallon of water (1:16) will work well. Some prefer a stronger mix, with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Either works effectively as a rinse, a net soak, and a general disinfectant. For most purposes, a brief soaking or rinse with the mixture is sufficient. For more worrisome pathogens, or to thoroughly sterilize equipment, let soak in the bleach solution for 24 hours.
        Removing residual bleach may be difficult, although usually a thorough clear water rinse followed by air drying will suffice. However, plastics may actually absorb some of the hypochlorite. For plastics, an "airing out" period is essential. An alternate method is to give the cleaned items a thorough secondary wash with diluted acid or plain (white) vinegar, which is roughly 7.5% acetic acid. Dilute the vinegar 1:20 with water for a reagent that will destroy any bleach residue. A clear water rinse will then remove the acid. Do not add vinegar directly to the bleach solution the result will be toxic chlorine gas!
        Hydrogen peroxide is used both as a bleach and as a disinfectant, and is commonly found in the medicine chest. Hydrogen peroxide kills bugs on contact. Most hydrogen peroxide comes in a 35% solution; a 5% solution is recommended for aquatic use. The solution decomposes rather quickly, leaving no residue, and it is easier on the hands than is bleach. Be sure to store any unused 5% solution in the refrigerator. Peroxide concentrate can become explosive if it gets too warm keep it at 80F or less.
        Clear ammonia. Most households have a container of clear (not sudsy) ammonia on hand. A 1:4 mix with water will sterilize almost anything and leave no residue behind. Ammonia may be rough on your nose, but it rinses away cleanly with several hot water washes. Any remaining traces will be broken down by the microbes in the filter bed, which handle this type of ammonia just as they do naturally produced ammonia in the tank.
        Ethanol (ethyl alcohol). Although bacteria can live quite well in pure alcohol (190 proof), a 75% solution (150 proof) will work quite well to kill the majority of them. The solution destroys the cell walls of the bacteria, making it an effective disinfecting agent. Alcohol evaporates quickly, leaving no residue.
        Potassium permanganate. If you enjoy working with what looks like dilute grape juice, try a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. Initially it will stain, but as it oxidizes organic material it produces manganese dioxide, a brown sludge. The cleanser is good for glass and plastics, but it isn't recommended for such items as nets, breeding mops, or clothing. If you do get a stain where you don't want it (on your clothes, for example), you can dissolve the stain by using hydrogen peroxide. 
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 1997                    Return to top of page

Cleaning Old Tanks
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

        You’ve decided to use that old tank that’s been sitting on the back porch for a couple of years, or you’ve just acquired a tank that’s been sitting in someone else’s basement for who knows how long. It’s a mess– not only filthy and cobwebbed, but encrusted with all kinds of mineral deposits from poor care and neglect.
        Cleaning off the ordinary dirt is simple: a stiff brush and good hot water will take care of most of it. A chlorine and water rinse will eliminate any unwanted pathogens that may still be present.
But what to do about those unsightly mineral deposits? The first advice from some who have been there is to not use detergents of any kind, since they can leave residues harmful to fish.
        The second advice is to use white vinegar and lots of good, muscular scrubbing. It takes work, but usually works pretty well. Just be certain to rinse out the tank well afterwards.
        However, sometimes vinegar and good effort isn’t enough. Wright Huntley has used a product called "CLR," available at hardware stores. This is an acid, "not quite as aggressive as pool acid, but be careful anyway," he recommends, since it will burn skin and can damage patio cement. Heavy encrustations of minerals can be attacked with a razor blade scraper after softening in the acid.
        Lee Harper reports that "Lime-off," sold in pet stores for tank cleaning purposes, will work, as will Real Lemon artificial lemon flavor, which contains citric acid. "Probably muriatic acid (with appropriate personal protection – rubber gloves and eye protection) or perhaps Cherry Coke (pH about 4.5) would work," he adds. With any of these materials a single edge razor blade is also required, to scrape off the softened deposits.
        If the tank has been used for saltwater, a "haze" may be etched into the glass surface. Unless you were planning to use the tank for display purposes, this poses no problem, although it may result in reduced visibility through the etched areas. In addition, algae growth on the glass in the etched area may be next to impossible to remove.
-- G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 1999                    Return to top of page

Collecting in Florida - Exotics and Killifish Too!
By Donna M. Recktenwalt   

        With the Suncoast Killifish Society hosting the American Killifish Association show in Tampa in May 2000, it’s time to think about all the things a visit to the SunShine State can offer. Based on what we’re hearing from the show committee, the opportunities for collecting in the Tampa area will be numerous, and since Florida is home (albeit accidentally) to a number of non-native species as well, the possibilities are boundless.
        What might you find? Cichlids¹; livebearers, including guppies, swordtails, and platies of various kinds; a variety of sucker catfishes; and of course, natives, including a number of shiners, chubs, madtoms,, darters, sunfishes, and of course killifish.
        Many of the exotic fishes to be found in Florida were introduced by well-meaning, although misguided, hobbyists, who set their fish free when they grew tired of them. Others were stocked as potential game fish by the Florida Game and Freshwater Fish Commission. A good number became established after escape from the area’s many tropical fish farms.
        A number of the intruder species pose potential threats to the state’s native fishes, either by preying directly on them or by out-competing them for food and living space. Collecting a of few these exotics to take home will help ease the potential harm they may cause.

Hazards!
        However eager you are to wade in and collect, remember that Florida is not only home to a number of interesting fish, but also to several other animals that can be downright dangerous.
        Alligators are definitely a hazard, and should be avoided. A precaution you can take is to poke a stick in the bottom ahead of you as you wade; this will frighten the alligators, and warn you of holes and soft spots. Although most alligators will avoid people, some may become very aggressive, and can do serious damage. If in doubt, leave the site to the ‘gators. If you do encounter one and are chased, try running in a zig-zag pattern; they move quickly, but don’t change direction well. If attacked, fight as hard as you can.
        Some poisonous snakes, such as the Water Moccasin and the Coral Snake, are also native to Florida. Scare them away by beating the brush from around the shore before you wade in; also glance around regularly at the water to see if any are swimming your way. If possible, avoid snakes; never kill one. If bitten, seek medical aid immediately.
        Fire Ants can be a problem in Florida. Watch where you step so you don’t stand on a nest, usually appearing as a sandy elevation up to a few feet across, or a large, conical earth mound. Boots, long pants and protective clothing can help prevent stings. If stung, wash with soap and water, then swab with antiseptic. Ice will help. Although painful, the stings aren’t usually dangerous.

References
De Bruyn, Henri. "Florida Killifish, Their Natural Environment, Behavior and Breeding, Part I. Journal of the American Killifish Association, May/June 1999, Volume 32, No. 3, pp. 100.
De Bruyn, Henri. "Florida Killifish, Their Natural Environment, Behavior and Breeding, Part II. Journal of the American Killifish Association, July/August 1999, Volume 32, No. 4, pp. 116-128.
Ganley, Thomas and Robert Bock. "Fish Collecting in Florida: Part 1," Aquarium Fish Magazine, November 1998, pp. 31-41.
Ganley, Thomas and Robert Bock. "Fish Collecting in Florida: Part 2." Aquarium Fish Magazine, December 1998, pp. 43-53.
Page, Lawrence M. and Brooks M. Burr. Peterson Field Guides: Freshwater Fishes. Houghton Mifflin Company, 1991.

– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February 2000                Return to top of page

Collecting in Florida - The Fish
By Donna M. Recktenwalt

The Cichlids^1,2
    Black acara (Cichlasoma bimaculatum)
    Blackchin mouthbrooder (Sarotherodon melanotheron)¹
    Black Port Cichlid (C. bimaculatum)
    Blue Tilapia (Oreochromis aureus)¹
    Firemouth Cichlid (Cichlasoma [Herichthys] meeki)
    Fivespot Tilapia (Tilapia mariae)¹
    Jack Dempsey (Cichlasoma [Herichthys] octofasciatum)
    Jewel Cichlid (Hemichromis bimaculatus)
    Mayan Cichlid (Cichlasoma [Herichthys] urophthalmus)
    Midas Cichlid/Red Devil (Cichlasoma [Herichthys] citrinellum)
    Mozambique Mouthbrooder (Oreochromis mossambicus)¹
    Oscar (Astronotus ocellatus)
    Peacock Cichlid (Cichla ocellaris)²
    Redstriped Eartheater (Geophagus surinamensis)
    Rio Grande (Texas) Cichlid (Cichlasoma [Herichthys] cyanoguttatum)
    Spotted Tilapia (Tilapia mariae)¹

Natives
    Banded Pygmy Sunfish (Elassoma zonatum)
    Blackbanded Darter (Percina nigrofasciata)
    Bluespot Sunfish (Enneacanthus gloriosus)
    Brown Darter (Etheostoma edwini)
    Coastal Shiner (Notropis petersoni)
    Everglades Pygmy Sunfish (Elassoma evergladei)
    Flagfin Shiner, Sailfin Shiner (Pteronotropis signipinnis)
    Ironcolor Shiner (Notropic chalyboeus)
    Least Killifish (Heterandria formosa)
    Okefenokee Pygmy Sunfish (Elassoma okefenokee)
    Pirate Perch (Aphredoderus sayanus)
    Pugnose Minnow (Opsopoeodus emiliae)
    Speckled Madtom (Notorus leptacenthus)
    Swamp Darter (Etheostoma fusiforme)
    Tadpole Madtom (Notorus gyrinus)
    Taillight Shiner (Notropic maculatus)

Native Killifish
        Adinia xenica (Diamond Killifish) – Prefers mangrove canals. Found with R. marmoratus and F. confluentus, often with Gambusia and Poecelia [Molenesia] lattipina; has an Epiplatys-like head spot. Breeds at 70-75°F at 1.010 salinity or above.
        Cyprinodon variegatus variegatus (Sheepshead Minnow) – Saltwater lagoons and mangroves. Territorial breeders that prefer 70°F or so, with 1.010 salinity or above.
        Cyprinodon variegatus hubbsi (Sheepshead Minnow) – Central, moderately hard, alkaline freshwater lakes. More elongated body that variegatus. Found with sunfishes and F. seminolis, swims in schools near the bottom. Breeds at 68-74°F.
        Floridichthys carpio – Saltwater dweller found in lagoons and mangrove areas with C. varigatus, F. similis, and L. parva. Bottom dwellers with seaweed.
        Fundulus cingulatus (Banded Topminnow) – Often found with F. chrysotus, in northern and central Florida. Prefers soft, acid water. Some scientists believe the F. cingulatus from the Panhandle is actually F. auroguttatus, with the more southern/ eastern type is F. rubrifrons.
        Fundulus chrysotus (Golden Topminnow, Golden Ear) – Found all over Florida, usually beneath surface plants. Breeds at 76° to 78°F.
        Fundulus confluentus –Found in both fresh- and salt water. Prefers hard, alkaline water. Breeds at 60-70°F.
        Fundulus escambiae – Similar to F. chrysotus and F. cingulatus; Panhandle area. Prefers shallow, soft, acid water with lots of plant cover.
        Fundulus grandis – Salt or brackish water, usually in mangrove or flat lagoon areas with seagrass. Often found with C. variegatus, F. carpio, and F. similis. Breeds at 75-80°F, hard, alkaline water at 1.010 salinity.
        Fundulus heteroclitus, majalis, jenkinsi, grandis saguanus – Salt or brackish water species.
        Fundulus lineolatus (Lined Topminnow) – North and north central Florida. Surface swimmers; prefers shallow, soft, slightly acid water.
        Fundulus olivaceus – Panhandle area. Have an Epiplatys-like head spot. Swim close to the bank at the edges of open water.
        Fundulus seminolis (Seminole Killifish) – Schooling fish that prefer the bottom of hard, alkaline waters. Large, hard to catch.
        Fundulus similis – Saltwater species, found with F. grandis. Needs at least 1.012 salinity.
        Leptolucania ommata (Pygmy Killifish) – Found in very soft, slightly acid water, in shallow areas with dense vegetation. Prefers it warm (77°F) for breeding.
        Lucania goodiae (Bluefin Killifish) – Likes plant cover, swims just beneath the surface. Breeds at 7